Legend Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 BTW - has anyone used the stock heat shielding on a BNR turbo and if so, how much cutting was required to make it fit? Stock heat shield in use here. No cutting required. (Why would there be - it is a reincarnated VF40.) Also running aftermarket actuator here FWIW. My '05 LGT My '07 Supercharged Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Which BNR do you have. Presumed that the EVO turbine side would be smaller/similar to our stock VF40s turbines, but from the pictures it looks like the 18s and 20s are physically bigger. Confused, maybe. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Dale, the OEM heatshield bolts right on. All BNR hybrid turbos are built into OEM VF-40 (or 46 if you request) housings. So, just put the OEM heatshield bracket back on and install like normal. If you have a bellmouth DP, you will need to trim the heatshield for that. But no trimming for any of the turbos. I have installed all of them except the 20g. No issues with any. The EVO16g is in my hands and the customers car just showed up. As soon as it cools a bit I will start. Completely stock car getting a EVO16G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berkshire40 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 cool, interested in the result Mod list & photos _ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 cool, interested in the result +1. What year is the subject vehicle. Interested because I'm also planning on an STi UP as part of my upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yar1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Its mine, a 2005. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Are you upgrading for performance or as "preventative maintenance?" lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 He is upgrading because his turbo is going to go "boom" any moment. 2005 LGT MT. Bone stock. 81K miles. Turbo in it is a stock VF-40 (but a replacement). Someone put in a used turbo and it was already in bad shape. Here we go. The motor. Cover off. TMIC off. Tw0 bolts at turbo. One bolt at bracket. All 12mm. One clamp at BOV and one clamp at TMIC outlet. Heat shield off. OEM has lots of small 10mm bolts. Easiest to detach the O2 at the plug then it is to get it out of the pipe. Also notice the bolt hole straight down. They are hiding on you. More shots of those pesky heat shield bolts. The bolt into the tranny from the DP. Its on the side of the tranny. 14mm. OEM CBE flange spring bolts removed. 12mm nut 14mm bolt. "J" hook off tranny to DP. 14mm bolt here. DP out. Release the hose clamp at the turbo inlet. Pinch off the coolant inlet and outlet. Remove hoses from turbo. Remove oil line. Remove 3 14mm nuts from uppipe studs. Pull that biatch out. Hope yours does not look like this. Nothing but cat in the uppipe. What it looks like with no turbo. Inlet clean and checked for leaks/tears. The famous banjo bolt. 17mm. No more filter. FP oil line cap installed. ACVS oil banjo bolt. You will remove this for the FP line. 17mm and its under the intake. FP fitting installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 FP oil line installed. New uppipe gasket. Turbo in 9went over this part before) and replaced the BCS hoses and pill. FP oil line on turbo. DP back on. Heatshields back on. TMIC back on. Stealth turbo swap complete. Check coolant level and lines for leaks. Change oil in car. Drives good. Tuning tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Wow. was the turbo like that when it was put on the car? Or did more damage occur after it was installed? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 Must have gotten worse. Bearings had TONS of play in them. Shaft moved every direction. It was scary how much the shaft moved. You could make the bearings clank by moving the shaft. That turbo was within an inch of its life. I am very glad Bryan at BNR got that turbo put together in a week. If he had not. Boom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Just curious, how many miles on that car? Am thinking of a BNR16G within the next year or so, both as a preventative maintenance and a performance upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 81k. Thats also the second turbo. That was the replacement to the original. Bad replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 81k. Thats also the second turbo. That was the replacement to the original. Bad replacement. FWIW, I took mine VF40 out at ~78K (or 73, don't recall now) and it was just fine. I don't race or abuse my car (05 BP MT) but do autox and put an occasional WOT run just for fun. The guy who bought it from me for replacement has ~130K on his stock VF40 and it runs great. Both turbos were at 3.5K OCIs since day 1. I don't know whether it's the maintance that defines how long a particular VF40 lives or the quality varies wildly like with oil pickups. That said, my car is so much better with BNR16G and Shamar's tune. Really love it. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_snipe223 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 When you re-install the DP is it best to hook it up to the CBE or bolt it to the turbo first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 It's probably easiest to get it on to the turbo studs first, then loosely bolt it up to the CBE and go tighten it on the turbo... it will be sort of self-explanatory once you get going, but put it on the turbo studs first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_snipe223 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 It's probably easiest to get it on to the turbo studs first, then loosely bolt it up to the CBE and go tighten it on the turbo... it will be sort of self-explanatory once you get going, but put it on the turbo studs first... Thanks for the info. I'll give that a shot when I install this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 FP oil line installed. ... FP oil line on turbo. m sprank...how'd the air intake boot go on after you installed the FP line? at the OCV, the 90deg fitting is completely pushing into my air intake boot, and consequently it's no longer round. Any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Motion Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 m sprank...how'd the air intake boot go on after you installed the FP line? at the OCV, the 90deg fitting is completely pushing into my air intake boot, and consequently it's no longer round. Any advice? I ended up putting on my aftermarket intake...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 I like to drive for 100+ miles in closed loop to "break in" the turbo. what do you mean by closed loop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWBarrett Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I got my 16g install wrapped up last night and got the car cranked up. The banjo bolt on top of the turbo with my new FP oil feed line was leaking quite a bit of engine oil at an alarming rate so I shut down immediately. What could cause this? Obviously I need to pull the banjo bolt out and reinstall it into the top of the turbo, but I'm not entirely sure that I did the install improperly. can anyone help? I'm hoping that there is something very boneheaded that I've done. Msprank...Shamar got the base maps to me this evening. Sorry again for the PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I got my 16g install wrapped up last night and got the car cranked up. The banjo bolt on top of the turbo with my new FP oil feed line was leaking quite a bit of engine oil at an alarming rate so I shut down immediately. The FP oil line has a straight banjo on the turbo end which hits the bearing housing before tightening down on the washers. You need to put 3 or 4 crush washers under the banjo to space it up enough to avoid this. Poor design. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWBarrett Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 (edited) i wasn't sure how to word my response, exactly, but I was thinking to myself that the oil that was pouring out was coming out in the type of flow that would indicate it was capped on the bottom. I'll give that a shot in the morning, thanks! Is it possible to have done any damage to the turbo if I've overtightened that banjo? or should I be golden once I slip more washers in there and retighten? The FP oil line has a straight banjo on the turbo end which hits the bearing housing before tightening down on the washers. You need to put 3 or 4 crush washers under the banjo to space it up enough to avoid this. Poor design. Edited May 2, 2011 by TWBarrett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 i wasn't sure how to word my response, exactly, but I was thinking to myself that the oil that was pouring out was coming out in the type of flow that would indicate it was capped on the bottom. I'll give that a shot in the morning, thanks! Is it possible to have done any damage to the turbo if I've overtightened that banjo? or should I be golden once I slip more washers in there and retighten? I doubt you damaged anything. Of course it's not good to run the turbo without proper lube but if you had primed it before firing up it should be fine. I like to pull the fuel pump relay to be sure the engine won't fire, crank a few times, put the relay back in and start up. Like this you will be able to see if there are leaks before the turbo even spins for the first time. The turbo bearing housing is cast steel so it's pretty hard to strip the threads in the oil port. Just make sure you have a good copper crush washer on top of the banjo and as many as you need underneath to be sure the banjo isn't contacting the bearing housing. You can use a piece of card or a feeler gauge to be sure there is clearance before tightening the banjo bolt down. You don't need very high torque on the banjo bolt, but it cannot come loose. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWBarrett Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Thanks fahr_side, that did the trick. I was looking for a walkthrough specific to the FP line last night to post this in but did not find one. I'll continue to look for it and swap this info into that thread because this seems to be pretty critical. Admittedly I did not use all of the washers that were included with my FP line but there wasn't any real direction on what to do with all of them. Perhaps this is my mistake but it is probable that someone else will make the same error. Thanks again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now