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Slotted Rotors?

Baddog

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Baddog Veteran

Baddog

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I am looking at buying some front rotors that are slotted with Hawk pads. I keep building a mod list and this is why I ask so many damn questions. So what would be a nice cost effective set of front rotors?

 

Or should I look at WRX fronts? I am open to the best option that is cost effective.

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Stang70Fastback Grand Master

Stang70Fastback

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I don't think you need anything like that really other than for looks. I just bought/installed new rotors/pads all around on my Outback. Bought Hawk HPS Sport pads and Centric Cryo-Stop painted rotors. I've mentioned on this forum before that combo is sufficient to seriously out-brake the tires I have on the vehicle at the moment.

 

Unless you actually plan on taking your car to track days and you need the slight benefit that slotted rotors have with regards to heat dissipation and removing that gas buildup between the rotor/pad, I don't really think there's any reason for it. There are many other things to do to your car first that will be much more effective.

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ineedmorepsi Community Regular

ineedmorepsi

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Hardware:

Stock calipers

Stock rotors

 

Pads:

Hawk

EBC

 

Fluid:

Motul

ATE Super Blue

Amsoil

 

Optional:

SS brake line... dramatic difference in feel when pressing on brake pedal.

 

This is the usual modification for some classes in Auto-X, since caliper change and changing to slotted/drilled rotors are not legal in their class, btw this setup stops great on sticky tires.

 

If you still need more stopping power. Then SVX or WRX front brake upgrade would be next.

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Baddog Veteran

Baddog

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Yeah I would call my self a spirited driver. I like to go down windy roads and some dirt roads when I find them. It doesn't help my tires suck I am sure.

 

Why did you name 3 brake fluids? Those the best ones? (I am ofcourse assuming)

 

I have heard great things about hawk pads. What would it run me for front + rear.

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Zues Marine Grand Master

Zues Marine

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slotted rotors are going to eat your pads, since legacys arent a super high performance car anyways, slotted would be a waste of $$,

 

a nice solid rotor and a great set of pads like EBC Green Stuff (or Red Stuff for more track-type use) is going to be more than enough for non track yet highly 'spirited' driving

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amp27 Mentor

amp27

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if it is for looks and your buds give you a hard time just take them for a spin and theyll shut up. that is if you get good rotors and pads. i can lock my stock stuff up so im not in need of new stuff yet
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Platinum_Racing Veteran

Platinum_Racing

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Hardware:

Stock rotors

 

Optional:

SS brake line... dramatic difference in feel when pressing on brake pedal.

 

 

Agreed.

 

I'd stick with solid rotors for longevity. The whole reason drilled/slotted rotors are made in the first place is to give the gasses and brake dust somewhere to go under extremely heavy braking on a car going extremely fast. Without the slots or holes the gasses and dust can become trapped between the rotors and pads and significantly reduce braking power. For all intensive purposes, unless you're putting in serious track time with this car it's a waste of money and will eat pads like no tomorrow. The slots and holes also add more surface area to the rotors, increasing the cooling surface reducing brake fade.

 

Either way, without race tires your going to lock up your tires long before you get the chance to build up enough brake dust or gasses to hinder stopping power.

 

And the stainless lines are a good upgrade, but they're a pain in the ass. I hate doing brake lines. I've done them so many times on so many different cars that I've gotten good at it, but they're certainly not high on my list of fun things to do on a car. They will resist expansion and bulging better than standard steel lines, putting more hydraulic pressure into the calipers where it belongs. Stock lines can expand under heavy braking, increasing volume in the braking system and making for a squishier pedal feel. Your foot is moving more fluid as you hit the brakes, but actually putting less fluid into the calipers as the pressure causes the lines to bulge. Stainless lines also never rot. If you're like me and not a huge fan of replacing brake lines stainless steel is the (Expensive) way to go. You literally should never have to replace them again. After that the only bottleneck is the brake hoses going to the wheels, which are still stronger than standard brake line.

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ineedmorepsi Community Regular

ineedmorepsi

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Solid if not cryo treated will heat up and eventually warp

Slotted keeps things cool but it eats pads

Cross drilled will last longer, keep thing cool but may break under braking

 

The purpose for slotted and drilled is for more resistance to brake fade during racing. For DD you don't need them unless your illegally highway racing. Like I said the Street Touring class only allowed to change pads, fluids and SS brake lines which is good enough.

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98quiksilvergt Proficient

98quiksilvergt

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I have Wagner pads and rotors on my legacy. No holes, no slots. It stops very well. Wagner makes some of the best brake parts you can buy. And there waranty is outstanding! You get one free replacement when the pads wear down. What ever you decide, don't buy any kind of racing pad. Those need to be hot before you can stop.
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kaz98gt Veteran

kaz98gt

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keep in mind, you can get the best brakes, upgrade calipers, lines, rotors, and whatever, but it doesn't mean jack if you can't grip the road. I just went with a set of napa rotors and advantics ceramic pads, and they're able to outstop my tires (cooper cs4). my mistake for picking them up, but they're awesome in the snow so I can't complain. I love the sold rotors though!
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ineedmorepsi Community Regular

ineedmorepsi

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keep in mind, you can get the best brakes, upgrade calipers, lines, rotors, and whatever, but it doesn't mean jack if you can't grip the road. I just went with a set of napa rotors and advantics ceramic pads, and they're able to outstop my tires (cooper cs4). my mistake for picking them up, but they're awesome in the snow so I can't complain. I love the sold rotors though!

 

Very true. I have sticky 225/45/17 Falken Azenis RT 615k 200UTQG rated rubber and they stop quick and sometimes overpower my GT brakes. If I have the 205/50/16 400UTQG Sumitumo set on they will lock during braking and spin all 4 when hitting full boost in 1st.:lol:

 

I have:

Brake MC brace

Hawk Pads

Amsoil Fluid

SS lines.

 

Waiting for pads to wear at the upcoming auto-x events so I can throw on my front WRX setup.

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Platinum_Racing Veteran

Platinum_Racing

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The purpose for slotted and drilled is for more resistance to brake fade during racing.

 

That, and to remove gasses and dust produced by brake wear under hard acceleration. Like I said in the above post, these gasses can get trapped between the pad and rotor in normal rotors and prevent contact between the two under racing circumstances.

 

 

 

 

 

 

keep in mind, you can get the best brakes, upgrade calipers, lines, rotors, and whatever, but it doesn't mean jack if you can't grip the road.

 

Exactly what I was getting at earlier.

 

I just went with a set of napa rotors and advantics ceramic pads, and they're able to outstop my tires (cooper cs4). my mistake for picking them up, but they're awesome in the snow so I can't complain. I love the sold rotors though!
I did the same thing with my 92. Napa rotors and ceramic pads. Great performance, but I had to remove the shims to get them to fit in my calipers. For some reason, even with the piston fully compressed the rears just wouldn't fit with those damn shims.

 

Napa also sells drilled rotors that are better than any of those Ebay pieces of s**t. That was for the 92 though, and they were $117 a piece, but if you want the performance look, these are the way to go. And they won't chew up pads like slotted binders do.

 

 

I have a policy... If I need something right now, I go to Autozone or Advanced autoparts. If I need something good, I go to NAPA. Under no circumstance, no matter how dire the need, will I purchase anything brake related (unless its just hardware stuff) from Autozone. NAPA gets better parts, and Autozone gets the cheap crap at wholesale prices from manufacturers, sometimes they even get the stuff that didn't live up to the manufacturers QC standards, so they sell it to Autozone on the cheap and they put their Duralast name on it. NAPA for the win.

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ineedmorepsi Community Regular

ineedmorepsi

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Platinum Racing,

Since your in the New England area look up Auto Parts International then. API prices are unheard of, internet can't even compete. They are a local wholesale warehouse distributor for auto parts stores, dealers and repair shops. Best thing is a normal person can go in and buy stuff. If you can find a location if not then Napa is next in line for me.

 

Here :p

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=auto+part+international+massachusetts

 

1 In Lawrence and 1 in Beverly only 30minutes or less.

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Platinum_Racing Veteran

Platinum_Racing

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Closest location to me is Beverly MA. I used to live in Beverly. When I lived there I went to Brittons Auto Parts, a local parts store that got me (Literally) unserpassed quality OEM parts at a decent price. Best part is, I never had to return their parts because they got it right the first time.

 

API is about 30 minutes from where I live now. Closest thing to me now is NAPA, about 8 minutes away. There are actually 3 NAPA's that are closer to me than Autozone or Advance, but NAPA has shit for hours and hardly anything in stock.

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kaz98gt Veteran

kaz98gt

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NAPA has saved me alot for having things in stock haha. when I was doing my stuts, I broke the stud off of one of the top hats at 5:50pm. I booked it over to napa and they had the part ready to go; got the job done half an hour later and went to chill with the gf :cool:

 

With the wrx set-up, it's the calipers and larger rotors/pads? is there anything i'm missing/anything need to be adjusted?

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