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spark plug wires for 2nd gen?


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I've seen them everywhere, some for alotta money and others around $20 for a full set. I've already changed my plugs, but I've heard that wires should also be swapped too? What's the deal; mine aren't too beat up physically, but they're probably original with the engine (probably 120k). Anyone ever do this?
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i had my wires and plugs swapped after i had a misfire engine code and it seemed to clear all that up and the car did run a little better.

 

i put 4 Ngk in,

 

but the car was running 3 bosche and 1 ngk which might of thrown things off a tiny tiny tiny bit.

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I have had very good luck with the Bosch wires from Napa.

 

If you want to test them check the continuity with a multimeter from one end to the other. Anything less than 0.5 ohms is good. I also like to put a little dielectric grease on each end of the wire. It helps the contact of the wire and prevents the white corrosion from forming inside them.

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so the wires don't just wear out over time? what I've heard is that they lose their ability to carry electricity as they age; that's what I'm worried about. keep in mind I'm a moron when it comes to electronics haha
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its true they lose capacity over time, so guaranteed being 12? or so years old there not giving 100% flow but im not sure how much they would have degraded. If you do replace them go for the Ngk
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  • 3 months later...
so the wires don't just wear out over time? what I've heard is that they lose their ability to carry electricity as they age; that's what I'm worried about. keep in mind I'm a moron when it comes to electronics haha

Spark plug "wires" aren't actually traditional wires. (You might have a mental image of a copper core with thick insulation covering it).

At the center of a typical spark plug wire is a graphite core which carries the power. It is a depletable automotive item that will deteriorate over time.

RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles
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dug up from the boneyard!

 

I never did get around to this; I've been whoring the suspension and interior for most of the time. But I did check with napa and they've got a good set for $28; I'll test the continuity of them this weekend.

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  • 3 months later...

Quality wires are quality wires no matter how you cut it. Don't expect them to add any performance to the car, but they will restore performance lost from the old wires.

 

The main difference between cheap wires and expensive ones is the quality of the rubber boots, the quality of the insulation, the quality of the wire itself, the size of the wire, and the quality of the metal connectors and the way they're secured to the wire itself. More costly wires will have a better fit/finish but they won't improve performance over cheap wires. They generally last longer too.

 

Wires can wear out over time. Over years and years of use heat can take its toll on the wires, increasing resistance. Mathematics states that as the resistance of a circuit increases either the voltage must drop or the current passing through the circuit must increase to compensate. Both of these consequences can reduce the efficiency of your ignition. If resistance gets too high you can actually cause the coilpack to overheat.

 

I generally only go with expensive wires on vehicles with aftermarket ignition systems, like my old F150. For cars with stock ignitions I go with mid-grade wires.

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Spark plug "wires" aren't actually traditional wires. (You might have a mental image of a copper core with thick insulation covering it).

At the center of a typical spark plug wire is a graphite core which carries the power. It is a depletable automotive item that will deteriorate over time.

 

This is true for older cars and/or American cars, but most wires out there now consist of a spiral copper core. The spiral suppresses the electro-magnetic field created by the high voltage pulses of electricity through the wires.

 

Either design looses efficiency with age, and neither design should be considered an average wire by any means. They are purpose built wires made for one specific application... Low current, low resistance, high heat, high voltage automotive use where electro-magnetic interference is an issue.

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