stevenva

I too miss my old 96 Sedan with a 2.2. I parted ways at 375,000 miles after it the 4EAT lost reverse. If the rear wheel arches weren't starting to rust I might still have it. You are correct about it being a pig on gas. I have a 3.0 Outback and I'm getting better MPGs than the 2.2. If the 2.2 had any balls that wouldn't be so bad but it is anemic after 45MPH.

Thanks for reviewing Nokians Zline A/S. That tire has been on my short list for my next set... after winter.

The trunk lid tensioner must be boppin along with the subs cone

You can go a different route. I installed a single DIN signal processor head unit that is more flexible and cleaner than a cleansweep. Pioneer DEH-80PRS. It cost $250. The front separates are inexpensive. $30 each Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofer Wool Cone 4 ohm. $34 each Peerless XT25TG30-04 1" Ring Radiator Tweeter 4 ohm. It's a common setup at DIY Mobile Audio. Google this speaker, It is the Gemme Audio Tanto which uses the exact same drivers in them. They are reviewed on this link. http://www.stereomojo.com/Tanto%20Review/GemmeAudioTantoReview.htm Below is a link to the install on my car. I included detailed speaker depth measurements near the end of the replies. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/380226-2005-2009-outback-legacy-audio-system-upgrade.html

1996 Legacy L 368030 Miles. R.I.P. 4eat failure. I figure I got my moneys worth.

I saw those small gaps at the bottom you zeroed in on in a couple photos. You could always order the JDM shift trim. + the color should match the new HVAC/HU trim.

Came out looking good. Where did you source the USB port. I'd like to find one with USB-C port.

Good thread. Speaking for myself, I'm thinking ecu tuning is next to learn. That looked expensive.

Good thread. Speaking for myself, I'm thinking ecu tuning is next to learn. That looked expensive.

Without using diodes to isolate each map light, the lights would no longer operate independently. It would probably/possibly feed into the overhead (behind sunroof) light when turning on either of the map lights.

I was looking forward to the success of this mod. I wish it worked for me. I don't know exactly why it took out my headlights. I don't see anyone else in this thread with this result. I at least posted what had to be done to restore the headlights

I just reported that the mod worked. (I left it in the garage without even starting the car before reporting success) I went to my car later after dark for first start. Headlights and driving lights flashed for a second when I turned them on-then went dark, highbeams=NO! Now nothing but parking lights. DONT DO THIS MOD Replaced fuse # 18 (10A) by drivers knee. Returned wires to prior. All works as before. I think they actually blew as I put it into reverse. I think it has to do with changing polarity on the map lights. I jumped in, started it, dropped into reverse before interior lights had a chance to dim.

Good mod. Worked for 05 Outback

I read the first post about using only this kit. I was transferring all my audio stuff from my 96 Legacy to my 05 Beaner and have a single DIN head unit. I apologize in advance about breaking your rule of only using this kit. For others who want an option or just for shits/giggles, here is plan B. http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/2005%20Outback%20Stereo/P1020102_zpsm5vfkui7.jpg A link to the install walk-through. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/380226-2005-2009-outback-legacy-audio-system-upgrade.html

05 Beaner, Black

Several people condemning certain parts for leaks without testing for them first. I first replaced the O-Rings and receiver/drier to fix mine. It actually held a vacuum for an hour. After the recharge it worked fine for a week or 2. I thought I had it solved until it's effectiveness was waning. I ordered a UV light and found leaks at the front compressor seal and the corner of the condenser. The hoses are good. The compressor seal does emit small amounts of oil/dye normally but it has been sounding worse over the past few years. It makes a buzzing sound when the clutch is engaged. It works but sounds like it's on it's death bed. I'm replacing it with a new one. The receiver/drier must be replaced with a new one whenever the A/C system is opened up to the atmosphere. I can't diagnose the evaporator using a light. I will replace it anyway due to cost vs frustration of replacing the other stuff only to find out later it was leaking. You'll unlikely fix it by guessing. If you decide to replace a part, never get used A/C parts. New aren't that much. My entire order list, (hoses not needed), was $500. That's for a new compressor, condenser, receiver/drier, evaporator and expansion valve. Now watch me fuc4 it up when I install it next Sunday.

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/Odometer3333221_zpshqxwefiy.jpg"]http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/Odometer3333221_zpshqxwefiy.jpg[/url]

Just passed 333,000 last week. Original motor, trans, diffs. Gets 29 mpg highway.

#1) What tire are you offering for review: 205/50/16 Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec, Summer, $136 each + $50 shipping for set of 4. 96 Legacy L with Impreza alloys. About 1000 miles on them #2) What is your geographic location: Northern Virginia #3) What types of driving events if any: None, Commute only #4) Percent of highway vs. city driving: 50% highway/50% rural #5) Tires used previously: Michelin Pilot Sport A/S+ General Altimax Arctic #6) Your review and personal comments: Grippier than I'll ever need or use. I don't know the limits of them. I have not been able to lose grip or get any squeal. I could get the prior Michelins to squeal a bit on fast corners, but I still had to try hard to do that. I think I'd have to go to some wide open space, throw caution to the wind, and purposely abuse it to see what happens. I'm glad I have mudflaps to protect my paint. It sounds like you're driving over a freshly paved road. Every pebble and grain of sand seems to stick to them and get thrown into the car. The steering response is quick and nimble. The wet handling is an area I haven't pushed. They seem fine in the rain,(At least as good if not better than the Michelins). Higher speed tracking and stability is top notch. With crowned highways the drift has been almost eliminated. They stay where you aim them. They like to sing starting at around 50MPH. Not really loud or objectionable but it is present. In conclusion, This is a difficult tire for me to review. One would have to drive like an irresponsible maniac to find out what they can and can't do, I just can't find out on the public roads.

I don't think he has to figure any mechanical work into the claim. The damage to the car sounds like it already exceeds it's value. (from the insurers view)

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/smstavros/96%20Legacy%20Instrument%20Cluster%20Light%20Project/P1010575_zps62fce7eb.jpg

"368,000 and counting" Miles or kilometers.

318,000+ Miles

Truck bed liner would not be practical due to the surface prep required. I had a crummy job at Ziebart years ago where we were a Rhino Liner outfit. A lot of prep goes in before applying the spray. You would be just as well off having the undercarrige sprayed with rustproofing. That stuff is like thick tar and sticks like mad. You can be fairly meticulous with it. I have no idea how one could be thorough with bedliner since, once you start spraying it-you can't stop. The part A and B will harden at the disposable tip.

White it is,,, But yours only goes to 120MPH. Forget I said that. I've never been past 85 anyway