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The Official Aftermarket Wheels Thread


Gohmer1

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Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 235/40/17

(235/40/17x7.5 )

 

Sparco Assetto Gara 17x7.5

 

i had difficulty finding info on 225/40 on 7.5 wheels and noting on the tires and little on the tires. tire rack took some convinsing to mount the tires to the wheels. their chart said not to mount the 235/40 on a 7.5 wheel. i had to threaten to cancel order and mentioned that local Goodyear searvice center would mount. sales guy (very nice) had to get shop managers ok and my promise that they would only be for track. after order i got a bit scared that they really would be wrong. but all was put aside 2 days later when i got them. they look amazing.

the size is equal to stock size. compared to my curret Rota Gravel 18x8 with 235/40/18 Goodyear Eagle GT a/s (which are 0.8" taller than stock).

the Rotas weigh in at 50# while the new track set up is 42# so with the 8# in saving and propper diameter i cant wait for the track! it hasnt made it much further than the driveway, yet. enjoy, i know i will.

 

im working on tire pressue now. any pointers? to high and ill wear the center, too low and ill rub sidewall.

i started at 35 front and 33 rear. that seemed low as on tight circles i was off the shoulder. im up to 40 frount and 37 rear.

IMG_8181.thumb.jpg.b6e024ae61cd41f4f6613eb2dcce7557.jpg

IMG_8190.thumb.jpg.34a1a2dacc606cc38cddc258cbd24439.jpg

Edited by triple_B
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Taken from an Autocross website...

 

To help determine the optimum tire pressure for time trials or autocross events all you need is a piece of chalk! Begin by rubbing the chalk on the sidewall of the tire and then move up to the tread blocks found in the shoulder area.

 

After you’ve chalked all four tires in various places around the tire’s circumference, take the car out for a few practice laps or perform some hard cornering maneuvers in a safe area.

 

Next, inspect the chalk marks and determine if any pressure changes need to be made. What you’re trying to achieve is to have the chalk rubbed off close to where the tread design ends in the shoulder area of the tire. If all the chalk is rubbed off a tire, add air pressure to the tire. If, on the other hand, most of the chalk is still on the tire, reduce the air pressure in the tire.

 

When adding or reducing air pressure to maximize performance, do so in 2 psi increments. Even minor changes in the air pressure can make a substantial difference in the way a car performs.

 

You can then fine tune the car’s handling by adding air pressure to the end of the car that needs additional traction. So, to reduce understeer add air pressure to the front tires.

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Fossil2k2: the chalk worked great. thanks for the hint.

 

the Sparcos were a total shot in the dark. they were the only wheel in 17" that was a good price and low weight catagory. $140 and 18.8#. plus they are 10 spokes so easier to clean than the 12 spoke Rota.

 

here are some pics from a Track event (the reason i got the setup)

pics are after 100 miles (4 sessions) of lapping on the track. check out the brake dust build up on the wheels! its a nice flat black combo.

IMG_8203.thumb.jpg.69f30fe45be03b64d3025f8af4d43f76.jpg

IMG_8204.thumb.jpg.71db4e80d1802d8a70b5956c683f2870.jpg

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Rotor looks like it's toasted.

 

GOOD EYE! ya theres a lame story to that. so 2nd of 4 sesions; as i come off the track the marshal waves me over and says turn 3 reported sparks coming from my front driver wheel. "oh, ill take a look" i say as i drive away....only to hear a slight/light metal squeal from that wheel. i limp to my pit and jack up the car. spinning the wheel reproduces the noise but as the car cools these few minutes the sound lessons. i tear off the wheel and dont see any contact of any kind. i pull off the caliper and pads and no more noise. the pads and rotor are perfect looking. no marks of any kind. the pads are flat and smooth. the rotor spun true as i could tell between the pads.

though i did notice when taking off the pads that the inside pad was "mounted" differently. i then recalled when i put on my Hawk HPS's a few months (and a track session prior) that i had a choice of position because at the bottom of the pads is a metal hook/spring. this hook can be set in 1 of 2 parrallel slots to the rotor on the mounting bracket, 1/8" appart. if the pad hook is mounted to the inboard slot the pad rests parrall to the rotor, if mounted in outboard slot then the pad sits canted/angled to the rotor with the bottom of pad slighlty further away from rotor.

i had the inside pad set to the outboard and outside pad set inboard.

 

anyone know what this is or why?

 

i replaced both to the inboard setting and put it all back together. all tested fine around the lot. both rotors were in perfect shape and i went out for my 3rd session. 35 mins later i came back in, people were asking how the brakes worked and no reported sparks....BUT upon looking at rotors both driver and pass sides were horribly scared. WTF :eek:

 

it then dawned on me that half way through session on turn 3a there was a ton of gravle on the track. i was on the butt of this Gorgeous older Alfa Hatch setting up my pass and i got showered by said gravel.

with this knowledge it seemed gravle was in my pads. i now pulled both sides off and sure enough i had at least 4 pieces of gravel in each pad between the top and bottom segments. again WTF i had to pick them out with a screwdriver.

 

so now what do i do? pads look fine but rotors are a bit grooved. i may just ride it out and keep an eye on it. ive been happy with the stock rotors performance and there is plenty of material left.

peace

Edited by triple_B
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Wow - gravel intrusion, on both sides. First I've heard of that - must be the very small gravel material. Keeping an eye on everything is prudent, turning the rotors/dressing the pads a few .001s might help a bit too. But I doubt I'd use them like that for any HPDE or the like events.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Thought I'd throw these in here. Test fitting my new wheels: Rota SVNs 18x8.5 +48 w/ 225/40 dunlops. Going with 235/40's next spring now that I know they'll fit. Oh and thanks again to DocHolladay23 for the L7 center caps!

 

 

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/lyledellota/1316818063.jpg

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/lyledellota/1316818065.jpg

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/lyledellota/2011-09-23151423.jpg

Edited by scoobie2.0
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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Lets give the kid a break....

I can appreciate the diversity, I would hate it if everyone's car looked like mine.

 

I think those wheels are a little too loud for me.

Try throwing some lowering springs or coilovers on to lower the car and reduce the wheel well gap, make it look a little more aggressive. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

http://www.supercars.net/Pics?streamPotd=y&year=2009&month=4&day=22

 

Can you guys help me out with what wheels these are? I am in love with them and I am wanting to sell mine and get these ASAP! Thank you!

Edited by SBT
Moved picture to reframe the page sizing
-Urban Cowboy
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Thanks man, in another thread someone said they were Volks ce28. I love the staggered look. However I haven't looked much into the fact of if they will fit and what sizes I'd have to get. I would have to go up to an 18" cause they offer a wider variety of offsets in that wheel. But yeah anyways thanks.
-Urban Cowboy
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