JmP6889928 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 The 08-09 OBXT wheels don't even come close to clearing the Wilwoods. The 05-07 barely clear. I bought some '04 STI BBS wheels off Nasioc for daily driving. I also got a set of Rotas for track use. Are you sure the Wilwoods won't clear the OBXT wheels or the stock 05 LGT wheels? I had thought that earlier in the thread was a photo showing them inside of the LGT wheels. I'm asking because I honestly have no idea whether they will or not and that's good information if anyone wants to actually try this upgrade. The one thing to remember is that the calipers are fit to the stock rotors and in looking and and holding one in my hand, they seem to be reasonably low profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin case Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 I'll be installing mine tomorrow,pretty excited to see how they feel. Ill post pics when it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 (edited) Are you sure the Wilwoods won't clear the OBXT wheels or the stock 05 LGT wheels? I had thought that earlier in the thread was a photo showing them inside of the LGT wheels. I'm asking because I honestly have no idea whether they will or not and that's good information if anyone wants to actually try this upgrade. The one thing to remember is that the calipers are fit to the stock rotors and in looking and and holding one in my hand, they seem to be reasonably low profile. I don't know about the 05 LGT wheels. Like I said they do fit 05-07 OBXT but not 08-09 OBXT. I think there is a pic earlier in this thread that shows the fit on the 5 spoke LGT and it shows it just barely clears. If you're wheels are that style then it will probably work. The OBXT wheels that clear are a similar style as well. One way to get an idea is see how much clearance your wheel has with the stock caliper. If it's fairly close to the wheel then forget it. If you've got an inch or so of clearance then you have a chance. Remember those Wilwoods have pistons on the outside where the stock caliper does not. Edited April 4, 2013 by oldskoolbiker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 I don't know about the 05 LGT wheels. Like I said they do fit 05-07 OBXT but not 08-09 OBXT. I think there is a pic earlier in this thread that shows the fit on the 5 spoke LGT and it shows it just barely clears. If you're wheels are that style then it will probably work. The OBXT wheels that clear are a similar style as well. One way to get an idea is see how much clearance your wheel has with the stock caliper. If it's fairly close to the wheel then forget it. If you've got an inch or so of clearance then you have a chance. Remember those Wilwoods have pistons on the outside where the stock caliper does not. Ahh....I see what you mean now. You're not talking about inside diameter of the wheel but width of the caliper possibly hitting on the back of the spokes of the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Ahh....I see what you mean now. You're not talking about inside diameter of the wheel but width of the caliper possibly hitting on the back of the spokes of the wheel. Yes. The wilwoods use stock size rotors so wheel diameter wont be an issue. Its the spoke clearance that is problem since wilwoods are wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin case Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 They're on! Pedal feel is awesome and they stop pretty well. The last picture is the clearance between the wilwood and a stock lgt wheel. It's damn close. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/yzy3y2u5.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/yzygyrus.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/8u4udeze.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/y3abyge2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 4, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2013 If the lgt wheel at +55 clears I don't see how an outback wheel at +48 wouldn't clear...??? Even the 08/09 ones... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 If the lgt wheel at +55 clears I don't see how an outback wheel at +48 wouldn't clear...??? Even the 08/09 ones... Because the spokes are really thick. http://dalenet.com/~delmar/obwheels.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Ok as promised here is a pick of the Rooduct I installed. I took out my foglights and ran the hose from there. On the passenger side it was a straight shot. On the drivers side I had to route the hose around the windshield washer fluid tank. I hope that doesn't affect the performance too much. The only problem is that the tires rub on the duct when the wheel is turned 100%. I need the wheel to stop about 1/4 turn earlier on the steering wheel. The guy that sells them said they are not supposed to run, but I have 245's on there, and stock is 225's. I plan to get some OEM fog light blanks to put in there for a stock look. http://dalenet.com/rooduct.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 That looks like a pretty decent fit. Are you going to run hose to the rotor shield or leave it open to force the air directly at the shield? I would LOVE to see it completed. I redid my rotor shields and custom fabricated/installed 2 ducts on each side-1 on top of and 1 below the tie rod end. I'll grab a photo of them to show you. The way I did it was cut out the two louvers that are above and below the tie rod that you can see in your photo, and opened them way up and then built a scoop that will direct air down to the center of the rotor and on the bearing. I haven't worked on the rest as of yet, but I think your vents look like a good beginning. If you can find the blanks for the front, please post the website where you found them. I'm very interested in using them for my vents as well and would love to have them to make it look nicer. Thanks much for the photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 That looks like a pretty decent fit. Are you going to run hose to the rotor shield or leave it open to force the air directly at the shield? I would LOVE to see it completed. I redid my rotor shields and custom fabricated/installed 2 ducts on each side-1 on top of and 1 below the tie rod end. I'll grab a photo of them to show you. The way I did it was cut out the two louvers that are above and below the tie rod that you can see in your photo, and opened them way up and then built a scoop that will direct air down to the center of the rotor and on the bearing. I haven't worked on the rest as of yet, but I think your vents look like a good beginning. If you can find the blanks for the front, please post the website where you found them. I'm very interested in using them for my vents as well and would love to have them to make it look nicer. Thanks much for the photo. They guy that makes the ducts says they work great just pointing at the rotors. He told me to just cut holes in the back plate and sent me an example photo. So I cut holes in the same areas of the photo he sent me. The blanks are available at the dealer for $40 each. I have also submitted a query on junkyarddog.com to see if any junk yards have any cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Were you able to retain the undertray ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Ok as promised here is a pick of the Rooduct I installed. I took out my foglights and ran the hose from there. On the passenger side it was a straight shot. On the drivers side I had to route the hose around the windshield washer fluid tank. I hope that doesn't affect the performance too much. The only problem is that the tires rub on the duct when the wheel is turned 100%. I need the wheel to stop about 1/4 turn earlier on the steering wheel. The guy that sells them said they are not supposed to run, but I have 245's on there, and stock is 225's. I plan to get some OEM fog light blanks to put in there for a stock look. http://dalenet.com/rooduct.jpg hmmm...printed on a 3d printer...pretty cool. Wonder if they can customize them a bit. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Were you able to retain the undertray ? You could. I took mine off a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 hmmm...printed on a 3d printer...pretty cool. Wonder if they can customize them a bit. I know he sells several versions and variations. The website is: http://www.randyzimmer.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Undertray is important to the cooling of the car. It also helps aerodynamics to seal up the underside of the engine compartment. By the way, I don't recall if you said, but how much were the vents? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Undertray is important to the cooling of the car. It also helps aerodynamics to seal up the underside of the engine compartment. By the way, I don't recall if you said, but how much were the vents? they were $220. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 I believe that I can make my own. If the instructions just say to point the outlet towards the front rotor, then it should be easy to fab these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 You could. I took mine off a long time ago. Boo! Undertray is important to the cooling of the car. It also helps aerodynamics to seal up the underside of the engine compartment. This. Undertray = negligable cooling issues on track. No undertray = wow starting to run hot on sustained throttle. Also can definately feel it in the front end over 120+ so it must be working at lower speeds too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin case Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Don't know if this is typical but at the track last weekend my accessport showed that the coolant temps were around 180-185 when driving "conservatively" and about 195 when I was hammering on it. Ambient temps were in the 40-50's. My under tray is staying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCASEYS Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I just bought this set-up. Can't wait.... I donated to LegacyGT.com which allows me to have this nifty signature. If anything SCASEYS posts ever becomes a sticky i'm gonna light this whole place on fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) My concern with this upgrade after seeing the photos-I haven't purchased anything as of yet myself so I haven't actually done any test fitting-is that the pad coverage on the actual rotor braking surface seems to be substantially less than the stock LGT calipers/pads. It looks like it (WW caliper and pads) only covers about the outer 2/3 of the rotor's friction surface. Is it me not seeing correctly or is that actually how they fit onto the stock rotors? Thanks. Edited May 3, 2013 by JmP6889928 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 The pad coverage is a bit less indeed but it won't affect performance (negatively) . It was a minor concern of mine when I put them on. The change in brake feel and response makes it way worth it. I had a pretty intense track day before I sold my ride and they held up great, My concern with this upgrade after seeing the photos-I haven't purchased anything as of yet myself so I haven't actually done any test fitting-is that the pad coverage on the actual rotor braking surface seems to be substantially less than the stock LGT calipers/pads. It looks like it (WW caliper and pads) only covers about the outer 2/3 of the rotor's friction surface. Is it me not seeing correctly or is that actually how they fit onto the stock rotors? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 The pad coverage is a bit less indeed but it won't affect performance (negatively) . It was a minor concern of mine when I put them on. The change in brake feel and response makes it way worth it. I had a pretty intense track day before I sold my ride and they held up great, I'm running HP+ pads and Hard Brakes Ti shims with the stock LGT calipers and Centric Cryo rotors all the way around and it stops pretty well on the track-decent modulation and I haven't had much fade (since I switched to Wilwood EXP600 fluid I'm sure that helped too) but thanks for the response. If you've run them on the track and they worked well, that's where I would be most interested in their effectiveness. Was there noticeable wear on the rotor from your track day-a ridge or anything that you could see or feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 If I remember right, I had DBA rotors switched to Centric premiums with HP+ pads as well and motul fluid, braided lines. No rotor cracks of any kind, just a bit of (well actually alot of) brake dust. I had stoptech pads on the rears and they scored the rotors but the fronts with the wilwoods on HP+ were fine. I would have liked a bit more agressive pad but overall quite pleased with the outcome. For autocross and street I really liked Porterfield R4S pads on the LGT, which is what I currently run on my rides . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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