oldskoolbiker

This issue just started with my car. The symptoms I see are exactly how the car would react when trying to start the car without engaging the clutch. If I turn the key on and off a few times, the car will crank and start normally. Here is what I have checked so far: 1) Battery good, fully charged, terminals clean. 2) Checked as many grounds as I could find. All clean and secure. 4) Checked all fuses I thought might affect starting. 5) Checked starter is good, as it will crank if jumped directly from battery. 6) When experiencing the issue, there is no signal going to the starter. 7) Bypassed clutch safety switch 8) Checked starter relay. I swapped with another relay and did not resolve the issue. At this point I'm thinking maybe it's something with the ignition switch or immobilizer system, but I don't know how to check those. Any tips on further troubleshooting, or should I take it to the dealer??? Here is a video showing the issue. Thanks for any assistance.

I got them from a local seller. Paid $600 for the set, but they were in great condition, and I got to inspect in person before purchase. Found them on Facebook marketplace LOL.

Installed STI Seats

When you do the brakes, swap it to Legacy GT brakes. They are bigger and will be direct bolt on. Won't be too expensive if you get parts from Rockauto.

I had the same sticky dash issue. I think it still cost me like 500 at my dealer after SOA gave me a "goodwill" coupon for $500 I believe it was. There is an extended warranty on the dashes for 10 years from Subaru. My warranty expired about a month before I really realized I had a sticky dash. At this point likely only people with an '08 or '09 might be covered by the warranty.

Ok so I am happy to report after a full day at Dominion Raceway today that for sure unplugging the steering angle sensor completely disabled traction control and VDC. The only side affect is the traction control off light is on. Also for anyone wanting to know how good the STI rack is. Here is a raw video of one lap at Dominion Raceway today. This is a very tight track and having the STI rack here was awesome.

So far so good. I'm taking the car to Dominion Raceway in VA this Sunday for a true test. Will report back after the track day.

No issues so far, but I haven't gotten a chance to drive the car hard enough for traction control or VDC to kick in.

Ok so I went and unplugged the steering angle sensor. Its a plug right at the back right side of the bottom of the steering column cover. After I unplugged the sensor, the traction control off light came on but everything else seems normal. No codes, sport / sport # seems normal. So I'll drive around like this for a bit and see what happens.

So last weekend I took the car back to my home town which is deep in the Appalachian mountain, so there are a lot of really curvy roads. I did some spirited driving around my hometown and the VDC was kicking in quite a bit even with the traction control turned off. It was hitting the brakes right in the middle of turns. I called the dealer and told them the car is worse now than when I brought it in asking for the VDC to be re-calibrated. I'm going to call the dealer back on Monday and talk to the Tech to see what they say. At this point I'm thinking about doing this. I'm thinking about unplugging the steering angle sensor which should disable the VDC but also throw a check engine code. I then plan to use my Cobb AccessPort to delete the codes that get thrown by unplugging the sensor. Anyone have opinions on this approach?

Ok so I got to give it a good test today. Hit an off ramp at a good speed and it had a sharpish turn. VDC kicked on. I'm so disappointed.

I hit one sharp exit ramp today pretty fast and VDC did NOT kick in. It was slightly uphill. There is another steep ramp I want to hit that is downhill I want to hit which VDC had kicked on before.

It has not kicked on since I had the dealer do the VDC Reset. I haven't tried that hard to make it kick in. There are a couple of exit ramps where I could get it to kick on. I'll provide update in a few days of driving around.

I got this done at my local dealer. I told them in installed the 2015 STI rack and wanted the VDC reset. I gave them a print out of this procedure. They charged me $60.

No details please.

I run at the track with the Traction Control disabled, so don't expect an issue at the track. Just expect improved performance. So seems the issue hasn't came back. Looks like the steering angle issue may only come up if you've done something that will cause the TC to kick in.

I have the TPMS sensors in mine. No issues.

I just experienced an issue with the VDC after having the 2015 STI rack installed. I did a pull on an on-ramp and at the end of that ramp there is a sharp turn before gettimg onto the highway. My car has so much power when I did the pulll the traction control kicked in and then when I went around the turn it kicked in again with no reason to kick in. Later in that same drive when I got off the highway on the exit ramp I went around a sharp turn and the traction control kicked in again for no reason. I suspect this is the VDC getting confused with the steering angle sensor. I've had no issues up to now so it may have something to do with the initial kick on of the traction control. On the drive home no issues but I didn't kick in the traction control.

Shop said they didn't cut, just used the thinner lock nuts. Stock Outback is 16.5:1 3.2 turns lock to lock.

I've been driving around a bit more and it's fine. I did get an alignment done when the rack was put in. It was just my initial impression from the first drive. After driving around for a couple of days it's all good. Just needed to get used to the extra resistance in turning the wheel. BTW, I have the GT Spec flat bottom steering wheel which is a smaller diameter than stock, so I can really feel the extra resistance of the STI rack.

Yes I still have those. So I just got back from the shop with the car. With the new rack it's 2.5 turns lock to lock. I don't even know what it was before. OB2.5XT, you have the same car as me, do you know what stock is? I had the STI Rack, Whiteline Bushings and Cusco brace put in. Didn't do the STI U-Joint because it was on backorder. As far as getting it to fit, they said it bolted right up. I also ordered the thinner lock nuts and they put those on, but said they wouldn't have been needed. The resistance at the wheel is a lot more than it was before. Probably double; feels nice. Whe wheel doesn't automatically return to straight as well as it did before. I noticed on some turns where I use the turn signal, the auto-off doesn't work because I didn't turn the wheel enough to engage it. That is just what I noticed on my drive home from the shop (about 15 miles). The total cost (parts and labor) to have this done by a shop was $1600.

My cars in the shop getting the STI rack right now, 2008 OBXT. I'll post an update once i get some miles on it.

Car: -2008 Outback XT 5MT Factory electronics: -Standard radio, no sub -No Nav Parts used: -JDM Twin HVAC Double Din adapter (JDM part #H6217AG911 from avoJDM Parts) - JDM Legacy Hazard Switch (JDM part#83037AG001 from avoJDM Parts) - SVX Dc parts (AE64.com) (14 pin audio cable, i88 adapter, i85 harness) - Kenwood DPX500BT Double DIN In-Dash Car Stereo Receiver - Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface Comments: Since the JDM parts are made for a RHD car the trim doesn't 100% line up, seems it's not exactly symmetrical so some fiddling is required to get it straight as possible. I had the trim pieces painted to match OEM by a local body shop for $150.

There was a guy returning his car to stock for trade in, so he was trying to sell quick. He posted on facebook, a friend of mine shared it with me and I jumped on it quick.

So literally the day after I posted my problem, a set of 332mm StopTechs came up for sale for $500, so I jumped on those. Not exactly sure how to check if the calipers were retracting, but a test of feeling the wheel for heat after normal street driving resulted in front and rear feeling about the same. I'd expect wheel to be really hot if they were dragging the whole time I was driving. Since I swapped over to the StopTechs, I'll be selling my old Willwood kit.