rnstein69 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 *Sorry for thread hijack* How do you like the Flex on the street? I assume streets of NJ can't be much more forgiving than PA roads. I daily drive in NY/NJ/PA on mine, I have them set to the softer side and I raise the care about 1" in the winter. I also switch to my 17" winter wheels, I don't to mess up my volks. The ride is good, of course not as comfortable as stock, but good enough to daily drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolksey85 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 ^^^Good to hear, especially considering both of you deal with crappy roads like I do. Maybe the Flex isn't as harsh as I once thought it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifbiker Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I'm running Dunlop Star Specs, with Ions over Konis, stock front sway bar, JDM rear bar, JDM from strut top hats and Group N front LCA bushings. The stock tire really leaves much to be desired so the upgrade to Star Spec or Kuhmo should be the first thing you do. The car at this point will still suffer from lack of static camber and if you run on a really abrasive track be prepared to wear the outer edge of your tire. Some caber bolts can add a little static camber to combat this problem. The next step is to replace the springs and struts. I'm very happy with the Ion/Koni combination. It works really well over rough street pavement and is also very controlled in the corners. If you keep your eyes open on the forums you can pick up a set of springs used. The increased spring rate in theory should reduce body roll and reduce tire wear on the outer edge. Replacing all the front bushings will help keep the LCA in position and increase turn in feel. Roll bars should be your last step and these can be picked up used pretty easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I have Megan coilovers, but will upgrade to RCE Tarmac 1 (500/500spring) in March. I also have cusco sways and and braces. For brakes I use GS610 brake fluid, brakeswap rotors and carbotech xp12 brake pads. I plan on going back to the track in April (long ass deployment ). Anyways, i expect it to ride bimmer-ish smooth for the DD but controlled for the track when i install the new coilovers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Make sure you upgrade your brakes if you have not already. The stock pads and fluid fade if you look at them the wrong way. -Franz Finally after a whole page, someone suggests proper pads. Definitely get something better than stock. HPS BARELY cuts it and if you get any better than a "beginner" or upgrade your tires, youre going to need something that can handle the heat better. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig S Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 I would never track a car with HPS pads on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnstein69 Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I would never track a car with HPS pads on it. Are you referring to a circuit track or autocross, because there is a huge difference. HPS is fine for autocross but they wouldn't come close to cutting it on a circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig S Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 I meant road course, there aren't too many autocrosses near me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I would never track a car with HPS pads on it. Agreed, HPS are okay for autocross (barely) but not for track. HP + still streetable and more track worthy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnstein69 Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Honestly, even before I upgraded to sti brembos/HPS pads, and had the stock LGT brakes and pads I would not experience any fade while autocrossing. You are only on the track for about a minute and have a good amount of time for the brakes to cool down between sessions. A road course is a completely different story, so I would agree that HP+ would be the way to go in that scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig S Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 My home track is Pacific Raceways, which is especially hard on brakes (and tires) and has a lot of large trees 5 feet off the side of the pavement. I've tracked heavier cars with HP+ pads and they were adequate, but even then it could get a little scary. That said, I won't be driving as hard as I have in the past so they should be OK. The stock brakes actually seem to be pretty well done, so I'm not planning to upgrade them (aside from pads, obviously). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Don't forget to upgrade the fluid. You don't want it boiling. This year I'll be running the following: -RCE Tarmac I coilovers, 400/400-Cobb front and rear sway bars-max camber on stock bolts, 0 toe-Dunlop Z1 Star Spec's (225/45/17 on 17x7.5 Tarmac II's)-HP+ pads, Valvoline syn fluid, stock rotors-Cobb DP, Perrin TMIC, tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 This year I'll be getting out there also and we have similar mods. I have all that you do (same brands for all even) +; GTWorx camber plates (-2.5f/-1.4r) RE-01R's Brembos HP10's Whiteline RCA & ALK [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig S Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 Do you guys drive on the street much? How are those spring rates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Let's see.... Megan coiloversF/R Perrin 25mm swaysCusco F/R frame stiffenersFront strut tower bar-2.5 F camber/ -1.8 R camber0 toeStock rotors and calipers with Carbotech XP10 F/XP8 RCar lightened to 2999 lbCornerweightedJDM front LSD245/40/17 BFG g-Force R1 DOT track tires40BB turboWiseco pistonsTGV deletePP exhaust manifoldsTurboback 3" exhaust w/ PDE DP, Flow UP, Perrin midpipe, and single 3" straightpipe from there backUnorthodox underdrive pulley setAEM IntakeAEM water/meth injectionTorco for the trackTuned by MikeAnd one mother****ing big APR wing:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubyShop.com Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Don't forget to upgrade the fluid. You don't want it boiling. This year I'll be running the following: -RCE Tarmac I coilovers, 400/400 -Cobb front and rear sway bars -max camber on stock bolts, 0 toe -Dunlop Z1 Star Spec's (225/45/17 on 17x7.5 Tarmac II's) -HP+ pads, Valvoline syn fluid, stock rotors -Cobb DP, Perrin TMIC, tune See you at Blackhawk and Autobahn this spring? -Franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Do you guys drive on the street much? How are those spring rates? The coilovers will be installed for the first time in the spring. But, from what I've been told, can be adjusted to near stock levels of firmness. See you at Blackhawk and Autobahn this spring? -Franz Yup. Still two months till the Blackhawk "school", so time to get things tested and sorted. Did you yet decide if you are going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Let's see.... Megan coilovers F/R Perrin 25mm sways Cusco F/R frame stiffeners Front strut tower bar -2.5 F camber/ -1.8 R camber 0 toe Stock rotors and calipers with Carbotech XP10 F/XP8 R Car lightened to 2999 lb Cornerweighted JDM front LSD 245/40/17 BFG g-Force R1 DOT track tires 40BB turbo Wiseco pistons TGV delete PP exhaust manifolds Turboback 3" exhaust w/ PDE DP, Flow UP, Perrin midpipe, and single 3" straightpipe from there back Unorthodox underdrive pulley set AEM Intake AEM water/meth injection Torco for the track Tuned by Mike And one mother****ing big APR wing:lol: PLEASE for the love of God tell me you have surprised a lot of people at the track. In for a good story [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 The car runs pretty well, and I was lucky enough to win my class championship this year against all normally aspirated 6 cylinder and turbocharged 4 cylinder cars. But what gives me the most satisfaction is that this is my daily driver - actually, my only car. All my competitors trailer theirs to and from the track. Running a daily driver is a lot more work since I have to swap out pads, rotors, and wheels both before and after an event. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 F Perron, are you using crash bolts or camber plates to get that much Neg camber up front.? How is the tire wear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 The front coilover pillow mounts have camber plates built in. No uneven tire wear on street or track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 fperron, tell me how you were able to lighten the car to that 2999lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Removed bumper beams Replaced driver's seat with Corbeau Forza Replaced passenger seat with Summit drag race seat Removed rear seat Replaced axle-back with single straight pipe Removed stock seat belts and velocity reels Removed air conditioner pump 15 lb battery Stripped trunk of everything Aluminum pulleys ACT Streetlight flywheel Removed all non-essential items like sun visors, child seat mounting brackets, fog lights, passenger side wiper, heat shields, etc. Saved a few pounds with coilovers Other stuff I can't remember Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Removed bumper beams Replaced driver's seat with Corbeau Forza Replaced passenger seat with Summit drag race seat Removed rear seat Replaced axle-back with single straight pipe Removed stock seat belts and velocity reels Removed air conditioner pump 15 lb battery Stripped trunk of everything Aluminum pulleys ACT Streetlight flywheel Removed all non-essential items like sun visors, child seat mounting brackets, fog lights, passenger side wiper, heat shields, etc. Saved a few pounds with coilovers Other stuff I can't remember So you must be running a harness and a roll bar, or hopefully a full cage. Wow, I wouldn't want to daily drive that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPerron Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 I work mostly from home, so I don't drive as much as I used to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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