Stinky Clutch Solution!!! *READ*

[Joe05GTMT]

Thanks turboman; I also hate having to change my driving style just to avoid the stench -- my other car has close to 200k miles on the original clutch and can be lauched at hard as I like. I sort of feel cheated, since the whole reason for buying this car was to have a little 'fun' once in a while and beat those minivans :-) I've even put active charcole in my custom cabin filter, but that only partly helps.

 

Last night I had the partical engagement issue (clutch pedal stuck half way up) that SBT had. I'm hopeing this partial engagement issue becomes repeatable since it becomes a much better case for replacement.

 

Joe

[Marathoner]

Just hope that it does't happen at an inopportune time when you really need to get going...

 

Anthony

 

Thanks turboman; I also hate having to change my driving style just to avoid the stench -- my other car has close to 200k miles on the original clutch and can be lauched at hard as I like. I sort of feel cheated, since the whole reason for buying this car was to have a little 'fun' once in a while and beat those minivans :-) I've even put active charcole in my custom cabin filter, but that only partly helps.

 

Last night I had the partical engagement issue (clutch pedal stuck half way up) that SBT had. I'm hopeing this partial engagement issue becomes repeatable since it becomes a much better case for replacement.

 

Joe

[Joe05GTMT]

Marathoner: Yep, that's my main worry also; for example turning left on a busy highway and then getting stuck crossing the opposite lanes of traffic -- especially with my wife and 3 year old in the car. Part of me hopes the problem will never happen again (the partial release problem that is -- I'd love he stench to go away), but part of me hopes it happens time and time again, so it's repeatable at the dealership.

 

Joe

[Guest turboman]

No cross-posting, please. Once is sufficient.

 

Kevin

[Erickson00]

I don't understand why anyone would just concede and say "That's to be expected."

 

My Honda Prelude could be launched at 6,000 RPM with NO clutch stink and NO problems with engagement. It was a Fuji clutch, stock (just like the LGT, right?), and it is much better than the piece of crap on my new LGT.

 

I love my Legacy, but I will not tolerate a clutch that stinks with a 4,000 RPM launch. That's how I like to drive, and I should not have to deal with an unnecessary smell because of it.

[malimx6]

I don't understand why anyone would just concede and say "That's to be expected."

 

My Honda Prelude could be launched at 6,000 RPM with NO clutch stink and NO problems with engagement. It was a Fuji clutch, stock (just like the LGT, right?), and it is much better than the piece of crap on my new LGT.

 

I love my Legacy, but I will not tolerate a clutch that stinks with a 4,000 RPM launch. That's how I like to drive, and I should not have to deal with an unnecessary smell because of it.

 

Not just that, but when you're on highway doing 80km/h and drop it in 3rd, slowly releasing the clutch so it DOESN'T slip, then punch it and take it to 5-5.5K rpm (not red line) and you smell the clutch? Hm, that's normal eh?

Besides, I've never driven automatic. Sometimes I'd drive my mom's car and that's it. I've always had manuals. Just don't tell me I don't know how to drive a manual please

[pug]

Hi,

I have an '05 LGT wagon and was stuck in what I think is a worst-case scenario for a manual transmission - uphill, heavy stuff in the trunk, in traffic (due to an accident) stop-and-go for about an hour. The clutch burned liked crazy, so badly that the next day the airvents still spew out burned clutch smell, and it has permeated into the fabric, items that were in the back, etc. While I'm sure non-OEM would burn as well, I wonder if it would burn just the same.

 

And I would say my driving was decent - I've only burned the clutch a few times in the last two years. Now the hard part is seeing if this will be covered under warranty since I would argue this wasn't due to driver error or anything. Anyone have any advice or suggestions?

 

Thanks.

[hutru01]

Hi,

I have an '05 LGT wagon and was stuck in what I think is a worst-case scenario for a manual transmission - uphill, heavy stuff in the trunk, in traffic (due to an accident) stop-and-go for about an hour. The clutch burned liked crazy, so badly that the next day the airvents still spew out burned clutch smell, and it has permeated into the fabric, items that were in the back, etc. While I'm sure non-OEM would burn as well, I wonder if it would burn just the same.

 

And I would say my driving was decent - I've only burned the clutch a few times in the last two years. Now the hard part is seeing if this will be covered under warranty since I would argue this wasn't due to driver error or anything. Anyone have any advice or suggestions?

 

Thanks.

 

That only happened to me once when I let someone else drive my car. (MISTAKE)

 

It goes away after a day or so. Just take it easy on the clutch. It sounds like you glazed it.

[pug]

Thanks hutru01. I had my mechanic drive it and he said the clutch still holds (he did the 5th gear test while stationary I think), but said I've certainly shortened the life just based on the strong lingering smell - hopefully I can get it changed before the 36k warranty expires.

[hutru01]

Thanks hutru01. I had my mechanic drive it and he said the clutch still holds (he did the 5th gear test while stationary I think), but said I've certainly shortened the life just based on the strong lingering smell - hopefully I can get it changed before the 36k warranty expires.

 

Yeh, the 5th gear test works. If the car just cuts off, it means your clutch is holding fine. If you aren't familiar, try it in a parking lot. All you do is push the clutch in, throw it in 5th, let the clutch out, and the engine just cuts off. I am not real sure what happens if you have a bad clutch. I only know what happens if your clutch is good.

[malimx6]

Yeh, the 5th gear test works. If the car just cuts off, it means your clutch is holding fine. If you aren't familiar, try it in a parking lot. All you do is push the clutch in, throw it in 5th, let the clutch out, and the engine just cuts off. I am not real sure what happens if you have a bad clutch. I only know what happens if your clutch is good.

 

:lol: :lol:

That's the funniest thing I've ever heard!!!! Geez, put it in 5th and just let go of clutch, and if the engine cuts off clutch is fine???? I wonder how BAD the clutch has to be to do this!!!! I'm no older than most ppl here, but kids, have you ever owned an older car? I had a Beretta with who knows how many km on it (odomoter never worked) and the clutch was really bad, and putting in 5th gear without moving and letting go of clutch won't tell you if clutch is good or bad. The car will just stall no matter what!!! I can't believe what I'm reading!!!

 

pug>> Good luck. I can't even get my seat squeeking/squeeling/noise-making, whatever you want to describe it as, fixed under warranty + I got ext. warranty. So much for Subaru's quality (and that wouldn't even be an issue if they'd just FIX THE GODDAMN PROBLEMS!).

[hutru01]

:lol: :lol:

That's the funniest thing I've ever heard!!!! Geez, put it in 5th and just let go of clutch, and if the engine cuts off clutch is fine???? I wonder how BAD the clutch has to be to do this!!!! I'm no older than most ppl here, but kids, have you ever owned an older car? I had a Beretta with who knows how many km on it (odomoter never worked) and the clutch was really bad, and putting in 5th gear without moving and letting go of clutch won't tell you if clutch is good or bad. The car will just stall no matter what!!! I can't believe what I'm reading!!!

 

pug>> Good luck. I can't even get my seat squeeking/squeeling/noise-making, whatever you want to describe it as, fixed under warranty + I got ext. warranty. So much for Subaru's quality (and that wouldn't even be an issue if they'd just FIX THE GODDAMN PROBLEMS!).

 

I have owned many clutches. I learned how to drive on a clutch over 10 years ago. Mechanics will tell you the test your clutch in 5th gear. Of course it is going to just stall out, but the difference is how it stalls out. If your clutch is worn it will shake violently and then stall out. If its in good condition, the engine just cuts off with no violent shake. I should have made that more clear for those who don't know the difference. My apologies.

[deneb]

Actually, when the clutch went out on my '78 Toyota Celica at 200k, I could put it in 5th and it wouldn't stall, the motor would run, no forward motion however.

[hutru01]

Actually, when the clutch went out on my '78 Toyota Celica at 200k, I could put it in 5th and it wouldn't stall, the motor would run, no forward motion however.

 

Hence, why your clutch was bad. (Your motor kept on running?) That means it wouldn't even engage.

[Crawdaddy79]

Hutru, I think he was giving you back-up.

 

I read a few posts regarding the slipping clutch - and while it bothers me I can't help but wonder if this was an active decision made by Subaru to make the transmission more reliable?

 

I read a few posts in another section saying that the transmission on the newer Legacys are much more reliable than the older ones... and I think that might be because of the slipping clutch.

 

EDIT 2: Read the first post in this thread. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48800

 

The service rep says he will try inquire about an aftermarket clutches on Wednesday that would not viod the powertrain warranty. He claims an aftermarket clutch could cause problems to the tranny because of the extra power, which would void the powertrain.

 

http://www.crawspace.com/web/thinking.gif

[GTTuner]

Guys I have some news. Some of you know that I work at a Subaru dealership. Others know now. Well we had a GT in on Monday that they pulled the clutch out of. SOA told them to take it out and install a new one, then send in the old one for testing. They have not tested the old clutch yet, but the clutch isn't faulty at all! There is no premature wear, and everything looks fine. What does this mean? Simply that our clutches are just plain old stinky! There's NOTHING wrong with our clutches. If your clutch stinks, simply don't burn it! If I launch hard the clutch stinks, or sometimes reversing up my driveway, but other than that it's fine!

 

There's 2 ways to solve this problem.

 

1. Convince yourself that you don't know how to drive stick and go get lessons so that you can take off without exceeding 1k rpms, and this way your not "slipping" your clutch.(I don't intend for this to sound offensive )

 

2. Go spend a couple hundred dollars and buy a brand new aftermarket clutch so you don't have to deal with the OEM subaru one.

 

Honestly though. There's NOTHING wrong with our clutches. They just burn easier than others. It's unfortunate, but that is what we have to deal with...

 

 

Dudes, (I work for a dealer also)......I put a stock replacement in mine under the 3/36 warranty. IT IS NOT THE SAME CLUTCH! My original was a definite stinker and slipper.

 

This new one has lighter pedal effort, and DOES NOT SLIP! Actually, the front and rear tires will break loose alternately and the car does bunny hops! And, it doesn't stink!

 

I purchased my car and it already had 45 miles on it. So who knows what was done to it in the first 45 mi or so. BUT, I still feel (and my wife does too) the clutch feels totally different. I'm happy, I got a free upgrade.

[TC100]

Guys I have some news. Some of you know that I work at a Subaru dealership. Others know now. Well we had a GT in on Monday that they pulled the clutch out of. SOA told them to take it out and install a new one, then send in the old one for testing. They have not tested the old clutch yet, but the clutch isn't faulty at all! There is no premature wear, and everything looks fine. What does this mean? Simply that our clutches are just plain old stinky! There's NOTHING wrong with our clutches. If your clutch stinks, simply don't burn it! If I launch hard the clutch stinks, or sometimes reversing up my driveway, but other than that it's fine!

 

There's 2 ways to solve this problem.

 

1. Convince yourself that you don't know how to drive stick and go get lessons so that you can take off without exceeding 1k rpms, and this way your not "slipping" your clutch.(I don't intend for this to sound offensive )

 

2. Go spend a couple hundred dollars and buy a brand new aftermarket clutch so you don't have to deal with the OEM subaru one.

 

Honestly though. There's NOTHING wrong with our clutches. They just burn easier than others. It's unfortunate, but that is what we have to deal with...

 

Please please please. It is 2007, the rest of the car market makes a clutch that doesn't stink like hell. I have learned to baby mine and avoid the clutch stink in almost all occassions. But there is a problem, and it IS a manufacturer problem. I was leaveing a parking ramp with 3 buddies a couple weeks ago and there was NO WAY (even you who works at a dealership) could avoid giving the clutch some work. It stunk so bad. My buds (and rightfully so) were all lke "holly sh_t! why would anyone buy such a product, or put up with it." I must agree. SOA needs to accept the fact that the clutch stinks. And that in this day and age that is not acceptable. I to have owned multiple manual cars and never had anything like this. I have a background in operating equipment and I tried your "learn to take off without exceeding 1k" and found that a very difficult and labor intensive task. Can it be done, you bet. Is there anyone out there driving in real city traffic doing that, nope. And that includes you, or loaded cement trucks towing trailers are leaving you at every stop light. Anyone who has smelled this/experienced this knows it is a problem, a manufacture problem immediately.

[NewLegGT67]

Does anybody know the cost for a clutch change at a Subaru dealership, if I chose to pay for it myself? If OEM parts were used I would presume they would still be warranteed by the company to 36,000 miles.

 

Would a STi clutch fit? (It should, it uses the original bellhousing) Is it a stonger unit? The parts costs shouldn't be that much different.

 

If (when) there is a recall I would think the dealership would be obligated to reimburse my costs? I wonder if they would be agreeable to writing this on the work order?

 

In New Jersey w/tax $1,502.16. I know because when I drove the car exactly how members on the site instructed me to (1st gear 1,000 - 1500 rpms to take off) the clutch went after 5,500 miles. SOA would not replace the 2nd clutch under warranty because the first time the clutch failed was the second day after purchase at 254 miles. Basically, they are telling me the first failure was my fault at 254 miles. I guess I don't know how to drive a manual after 15 years and 3 cars. My bad

BTW, SOA is offering me $1,000 back as a gesture of good will (off topic). Of course, this was after a got an attorney. Don't think for a second that SOA cares about me or my business!!

Sorry for the rant I just couldn't help myself, but a new clutch installed from the dealer is between $1,400 and $1,500 including parts and labor.

[NewLegGT67]

I don't understand why anyone would just concede and say "That's to be expected."

 

My Honda Prelude could be launched at 6,000 RPM with NO clutch stink and NO problems with engagement. It was a Fuji clutch, stock (just like the LGT, right?), and it is much better than the piece of crap on my new LGT.

 

I love my Legacy, but I will not tolerate a clutch that stinks with a 4,000 RPM launch. That's how I like to drive, and I should not have to deal with an unnecessary smell because of it.

 

I agree, after having me clutch replaced the second time has taken a lot of the fun away from the driving this car. Don't let me see slow moving traffic up a steep off/on ramp then it's like performing surgery. "OMG, I don't want to stall but I can't go above 1,500 rpms (with passengers). I don't want to burn up my clutch.":(

[NewLegGT67]

Not just that, but when you're on highway doing 80km/h and drop it in 3rd, slowly releasing the clutch so it DOESN'T slip, then punch it and take it to 5-5.5K rpm (not red line) and you smell the clutch? Hm, that's normal eh?

Besides, I've never driven automatic. Sometimes I'd drive my mom's car and that's it. I've always had manuals. Just don't tell me I don't know how to drive a manual please

 

You tell 'em!!

[NewLegGT67]

Hi,

I have an '05 LGT wagon and was stuck in what I think is a worst-case scenario for a manual transmission - uphill, heavy stuff in the trunk, in traffic (due to an accident) stop-and-go for about an hour. The clutch burned liked crazy, so badly that the next day the airvents still spew out burned clutch smell, and it has permeated into the fabric, items that were in the back, etc. While I'm sure non-OEM would burn as well, I wonder if it would burn just the same.

 

And I would say my driving was decent - I've only burned the clutch a few times in the last two years. Now the hard part is seeing if this will be covered under warranty since I would argue this wasn't due to driver error or anything. Anyone have any advice or suggestions?

 

Thanks.

 

I had the same scenario a lot of bumper-to-bumper driving in the summer (merging up a steep hill with two passengers)and I had the clutch stench. After that strickly fast moving all highway driving without any clutch smell or slippage (not launching of 1st gear above 1,500 rpms) my clutch failed at 5,500 miles.

[mickeyd2005]

I know people who have had their clutch replaced under warranty. Dealer didn't give them a fuss about it so I think the 2005 clutch has a higher than normal rate of problems. And yes, the replacement clutches are better.

[NewLegGT67]

Please please please. It is 2007, the rest of the car market makes a clutch that doesn't stink like hell. I have learned to baby mine and avoid the clutch stink in almost all occassions. But there is a problem, and it IS a manufacturer problem. I was leaveing a parking ramp with 3 buddies a couple weeks ago and there was NO WAY (even you who works at a dealership) could avoid giving the clutch some work. It stunk so bad. My buds (and rightfully so) were all lke "holly sh_t! why would anyone buy such a product, or put up with it." I must agree. SOA needs to accept the fact that the clutch stinks. And that in this day and age that is not acceptable. I to have owned multiple manual cars and never had anything like this. I have a background in operating equipment and I tried your "learn to take off without exceeding 1k" and found that a very difficult and labor intensive task. Can it be done, you bet. Is there anyone out there driving in real city traffic doing that, nope. And that includes you, or loaded cement trucks towing trailers are leaving you at every stop light. Anyone who has smelled this/experienced this knows it is a problem, a manufacture problem immediately.

 

Are there any people that have the '05/'06 LGT that live in an area with a lot steep hills like San Francisco? Driving and parking must be fun!! .

Remember, don't slip the clutch above 1,000 rpms, you don't want to glaze it. You must have the passenger get out before you park on a hill.

 

I am would probably ride my motorcycle in the pouring rain before parking on a steep hill with this stock clutch.

[Legacy05]

Its probably a combination of things... driver/sucky clutch. I have almost 51k miles now on my stock clutch. I have been running stage 1/2 power levels for at least 20k miles now. Just had a retune and the clutch feels great still. In fact, when it goes out I am probably going to go with another stock clutch.

[hutru01]

Its definitely not a clutch made for the amount of horsepower that the Legacy GT is capable of. Mainly 1st and 2nd gear are just to sensitive. I learned how to drive on a Manual and I have never stalled out on manual cars as much as I have in my LGT. When my clutch does eventually go, I will be going with a aftermarket clutch. Hopefully by then the market will be flooded with different choices.