Shotokan1509 Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 What is the econo option for rear bar? The LGT is my daily/winter car so will not be getting springs, or other mods but I can't stand the wagging rear end anymore. I feel like I need to toss the car over to get the factory bars engaged, and changing radius turns its on & off... same turns in my mustang (with suspension modded) are fine. So even though I really dont want to spend mod money on the LGT, think it would be a good investment instead of swearing at it a couple days a week. Hoping just rear bar will make it bearable. Do I need end links, etc? It's not getting auto-x, or carving canyons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinalth Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 since this thread was just bumped I figured I'd toss in my 2c. I now have the Perrin front and rear 25mm sways, and running rallitek endlinks and the rear AVO mounting reinforcements. much better than stock. not overly large by any means for a DD. If you can find a 25mm Rear bar somewhere, grab it, and then get the front to match (since the rear 25mm is now discontinued). I run the front at the hard setting, and the rear at the soft (marginal difference to be honest, but I'd rather a touch more understeer as the heavy back end is still twitchy on stock springs). the main thing is it is flatter, but the rear being more predictable is the biggest plus. the front grabbing more and the rear following in correctly just makes taking a quick movement safer. If anyone saw my thread about the stock suspension being scary, you would see my reasoning. Anyhow. the only drawback is that like mentioned on page 4, it does rub the left section of my magnaflow catback. I COULD dent it and be fine, but really I'm not worried about it. its constant contact, and neither moves at all, so there should be no illfated problems. and there is no noise associated with it, so its not an annoyance. That all being said, I am going to grab a set of progressive springs to finish off the suspension till I can afford Koni inserts. I do want to get bushings, but overall the swaybars made the car drivable so that I was not affraid of making movements on the highway (not unsafe, just ANYthing more then a SLOW merge). Hope it helps. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 What is the econo option for rear bar? The LGT is my daily/winter car so will not be getting springs, or other mods but I can't stand the wagging rear end anymore. I feel like I need to toss the car over to get the factory bars engaged, and changing radius turns its on & off... same turns in my mustang (with suspension modded) are fine. So even though I really dont want to spend mod money on the LGT, think it would be a good investment instead of swearing at it a couple days a week. Hoping just rear bar will make it bearable. Do I need end links, etc? It's not getting auto-x, or carving canyons. You should do the JDM rear bar at the very least. Endlinks not completely necessary but a good endlink will improve steering feel/transient response. Unfortunately if you really want to change the chracteristics and dynamics of the handling you will need to improve on things other than the sways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 You should do the JDM rear bar at the very least. Endlinks not completely necessary but a good endlink will improve steering feel/transient response. Unfortunately if you really want to change the chracteristics and dynamics of the handling you will need to improve on things other than the sways. Ok I'll check out the JDM. Oh I know, but I don't want to get in to all of it. First I don't want to spend the cash and second I already have the stiff suspension toy. Some of my drive to work has a stupid road that beats you up with the bumps... so I feel every part of: FRPP Lower springs, Tokico D-spec adjustable shocks & struts, BMR front & rear swaybars, Steeda billet sway bar mounts, camber bolts, CHE K-member brace with tq limiters, rear lower control arms, lower control arm relocating brackets, adjustable upper control arm, adjustable panhard bar, panhard brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I hear ya, bad roads make one think twice about suspension mods. Don't overlook the obvious like tires, steering rack bushings and rear bushings (for the front A arms) . The latter did more for my handling than some of the other mods . JDM bar for shure , you probably don't even need the upgraded mounts with it as well. I saw one for sale in the marketplace section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fzanetti Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 25mm may be too much for winters up here - not enough compliance. The local Impreza guys unhook or remove their rear bars for the winter. I agree, aftermarket endlinks, particularly the bushing style vs the spherical bearing, should tighten things up a bit. My MSI endlinks came with two different sets of polyurethane bushings with different durometers (applicable to bushings?). Anyhow, two sets with different hardness. I'm running the harder motorsport bushings to keep things as tight as possible. Hey pal, Where did you purchase your MSI endlinks? I may give them a try, for track days, once I have heard amazing things about their motorsport bushings, etc.... Please let me know, Tx Flavio Zanetti Boston, MA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbwrx Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 running stock front bar with upgraded bushings and a 22mm perrin rear sway with upgraded mounts. i love my setup combined with the rallitek springs. still keep thinking about getting a front sway but not sure if the 22mm front would be a huge difference over the stock 21mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 If you get 23 mm adjustable it will make a big difference. I held out on a front bar for over a year after I got my rear bar. Very worth upgrading IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 I'm looking to stiffen up my ride a bit. I was looking at whiteline 22/20 F/R non adjustible sway bars and whiteline lca bushing. My lgt is a daily driver all yr 'round. I won't be lowering my car, it's 100% stock, just want to stiffen up a bit and make it more responsive, not make it a go kart. Will the above setup (non adjustible 22/20 w/out whiteline endlinks and with whiteline lca bushings) make a significant difference comparing to stock? Should i go with adjustible ones anyway? Should i get whiteline endlinks considering i drive the car daily? - i don't want to be replacing these things every couple of years if they're not good for everyday driving. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Whiteline is a good company and they do things right . You probably can't go wrong with just their non adjustable sways and LCA"s (which will make as big or more of a difference than the sways). I personally use adjustable sways but then again I really like tweaking to get an edge in my autocross club. Changing out the endlinks is not completely necessary and you may likely run into more noise and issues depending on manufacturer. Again I use solid endlinks (MSI's) and love them but trade off with suspension noise. My latest ride is an 05 Forester and I'm keeping it fairly stock except a rear bar. Keep it simple if you have a daily driver or go the mod bug route (which is never ending) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 thanks...i'm thinking i'll go with non-adjustible ones since i've been reading that changing the rear one only will make a difference, therefore changing both should make a significant difference. for price difference i'll invest in lca bushings. I think i'll leave stock end links, once they go i'll replace them then. My lgt has only about 55K miles (86K km) so end links should last me couple of more years anyway. If anyone has any other suggestions please share...thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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