John M Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 So my LC-1 kit is on the way. I'd really rather not have to unwrap my downpipe to have a bung welded in for the o2 sensor so I was wondering if I could use the stock rear o2 port instead? Of course it'll be a PITA to install & remove it but I can handle that -- I've got ramps. It shouldn't be hard to disable any CELs relating to the secondary o2. As a side note, Tuner Tools (tunertools.com) has great service. I'm always hesitant to use a vendor I've never heard of but after seeing it mentioned here I'm glad I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I think you need to have a "fake" rear o2 signal sent to the ecu (it is not as easy as disabling CELs), the rear o2 is used for cruise afrs (I think)...I thought about doing it and then just gave in and installed a bung on the DP. I took it to a shop and they installed the bung with the DP on the car..easy as pie. Reference pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 More info here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100951 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Dammit -- I forgot I have a catted DP. New bung it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Thankfully the LC-1 kit (arrived today) includes a bung so it's now simply a matter of getting it welded. I've been thinking though -- how do they use a tailpipe sniffer type wideband on dynos and such? Does it require a totally catless car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 They basically just guess Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 With a catted exhaust and the WO2 in the tailpipe, it's close enough that it doesn't matter. And it's a hell of a lot better than not even attempting to monitor AFR My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 But it'd still be in my best interest to put the wideband before the downpipe cat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 if you have the ability to do so, then yes My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasopoliS Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Put the WB where COBB puts it. On the top of the DP just bast the turbo. LC-1 reads just fine there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 ^^ and you don't have to crawl under the car to add/remove it My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.b Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 No, but what a pain to remove your tmic every time you need to change out your wo2! Unless, of course, you're running an fmic and no engine cover... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I could get to my bung on my cobb DP back when I had a cobb dp and a tmic My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weitek Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Put the WB where COBB puts it. On the top of the DP just bast the turbo. LC-1 reads just fine there. ^^^ This. I have a LC-1 with the o2 sensor on the dp right behind the turbo. However you should be aware that it may over-heat and damage the sensor if it's too close and/or if you run the car really hard. I had to learn the hard way after killing 2 sensors in 6 months. You may wish to consider getting a HBX-1 bung extender. It seems like a rip-off at $70 but after going through so many sensors the value became more clear to me. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-motorsports-hbx1-heatsink-bung-extender-p-73.html (Note: Not my site. Not affiliated. Can't vouch for them. It's the first link on Google.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 i'm guessing that heat sink would work for the AEM UEGO as well? No, but what a pain to remove your tmic every time you need to change out your wo2! Unless, of course, you're running an fmic and no engine cover... i'm think the bung in the top of DP is accessible under my Perrin TMIC without removing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepydave Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 I will vouch for the validity of the hbx-1's. I run my LM-1 on just about any car that needs it, but it spends it's free time about 4" back from my turbo on my rotary. Rotaries run a little hotter in the egt's than piston power, and after killing 2 sensors myself I bought the extender. Worth every penny; been on the same sensor for just over two years without issue on fuel from 91-104octanes including ethanol and methanol blends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 Once the car is dialed in I don't expect to run the WB much after that. For another question: What about the Invidia downpipe with a divided inlet? I don't want to put the sensor after the bellmouth because it'd be hard to use next to the firewall. Can I place the bung centered on the "large" side (turbo's exhaust wheel) of the inlet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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