naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 so earlier this year, i had to avoid an asshole cutting me off right after exiting the tolls and jumping on the turnpike and i hit a curb, curbing the hell out of my left-side wheels. i complained two times before the incident about bearing noise which the dealership said was tire noise (under 10k miles), which was BS. it got bad, and then worst especially after the incident. later on around march, i got new wheels/tires and springs. alignment was done, perfect 0.0 toe all around, however i got less camber on both wheels on the side hit. in the front, -0.4 vs -1.0, and in the back, -0.3 vs. -1.5. i knew camber was not even adjustable in the rear so some things were bent but decided to wait it out until i do koni's since i got no tire wear. today i decided to replace the front left bearing/hub, because i could not stand it anymore. every nut and bolt came out without a problem. axle nut came off easily with the breaker bar. then i used a slide hammer to pull the hub/bearing off. 3 easy bangs and right off it came. AND THEN , i noticed only the front part of the hub/bearing came off! would it have been possible for my wheel to have just fallen off on the highway . sucker came right off! is there supposed to be a lot more grease? because whatever you see there is all that was in there. i noticed even before starting that there was a residue of similar grease on the axle nut, so i assume it was leaking out!?! http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2313/dsc04785s.jpg in this picture, you can see the seal is distorted, and the bearings just hanging out. i thought they were supposed to be tapered roller bearings? http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/5980/dsc04789k.jpg another close up. http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1811/dsc04786.jpg another. http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6403/dsc04787.jpg you can see the bearings in the back. the piece/seal for the back is just hanging there, not up against the bearings. http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/3889/dsc04792.jpg this really sucks that i can't drive my car for the next two days or so trying to get parts. i assume i have to get a replacement spindle since it could be bent correct? i would just throw away the old spindle and hub assembly, but the brake shield is stuck in between them also so i need i need ideas on getting that out. any suggests, help, guides, part numbers, appreciated. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 pic of my car for reference http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2212/dsc04046.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86994 You just pulled the bearing assembly apart, which you shouldn't have done. Not a big deal. You just need to hit the rest of the bearing assemble to separate it from the steering knuckle. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 well considering that the bearing/hub assembly is a complete bolt on unit onto the knuckle, shouldn't it have came off as a unit with all the bolts/nuts removed? it even says in the manual, "the hub unit bearing can not be disassembled, only hub bolts can be removed." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 It should once you whack it with a hammer Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 i still can't get over the fact that the hub should have came out as a unit. if you say all is good (steering knuckle), how do you suggest i get the rest of the assembly out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 it should have came out like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I would suggest hitting the side and back of the assembly with a hammer. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 ok now what, its not budging. only thing that did was pop the ball bearings out all over the place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hit it harder Hit the back. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 well i've been hitting that crap from behind for an hour or so. then i attached the slide hammer just whats left of the hub assembly. hammering away for another hour or so, still nothing. sh*t. ears are hurting from the hammering. http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/1196/dsc04793l.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 You have 'spun" the bearing and it is welded to the axle:mad: new half shaft required. "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 what? i still working on it. the axle is completely free and looks fine. maybe you mean its welded to the spindle/steering knuckle, but the axle is ok. i'm trying to get the whole knuckle out. i got the tie rod off, but how do i get the control arm off? i'm searching but if anyone can give me tips that would be helpful right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 dammit my car was supposed to be done by tonight, and i should be watching transformers 2 LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 you need to get the car up a bit higher so you can put two bolts into what's left of the bearing assembly (only thread into the flange part). get a long prybar between the two bolts. rotate the entire assembly slightly so the rust around the round part cracks. if that fails, start cutting the old part out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 You have 'spun" the bearing and it is welded to the axle:mad: new half shaft required. Really ? Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 you need to get the car up a bit higher so you can put two bolts into what's left of the bearing assembly (only thread into the flange part). get a long prybar between the two bolts. rotate the entire assembly slightly so the rust around the round part cracks. if that fails, start cutting the old part out. good idea, i just tried it and it didn't work though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 can someone give me tips on taking the ball joint out of the knuckle? i'd like to keep it on the LCA, and just out of the knuckle. i removed the top bolt. should i remove the castle nut on the bottom also? i've been banging it out but its not budging. i'm in no hurry but i'd like it to be done by next week before my koni's come in. http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/2359/lca.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 some of this work is easier done then said. a lot of tricks to the trade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 got an air hammer? or even a punch set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 also use penetrating fluid and heat if need be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 i got some PB blaster, punch set, and big ass hammer; thats about it. so just bang it out? how careful should i be when hammering away at the LCA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 use a chisel to open op the split in the nuckel to remove the ball joint from the nuckel. and then a pry bar to pry down on the lower control arm to separate. but using the punches and a hammer try rotating the hub assembly clockwise or counter clockwise to loosen up any rust holding it in. similar to the pry bar tip earlier. once it rotates it should come out easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 use a chisel to open op the split in the nuckel to remove the ball joint from the nuckel. and then a pry bar to pry down on the lower control arm to separate. but using the punches and a hammer try rotating the hub assembly clockwise or counter clockwise to loosen up any rust holding it in. similar to the pry bar tip earlier. once it rotates it should come out easier ^ Guaranteed to break knuckle. It is a cast piece. "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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