Jerboa113 Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I did search this, didnt really find what i'm looking for. I purchased some goodridge brake hoses, and I have them sitting in a box in my living room.. and I suppose it dawned on me too late that since this car is ABS, the bleeding/flushing process may be different than the older cars I'm familiar with. So I give a shop a ring and they tell me it requires a special tool and the price is around $400. Now i've already spent a fortune on this brake upgrade.. and I want it done right, but.. I do not have $400 this month to put into this.. Should I just skip the hoses and do a normal bleed when I swap pads and rotors or something? "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VXCL Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I did search this, didnt really find what i'm looking for. I purchased some goodridge brake hoses, and I have them sitting in a box in my living room.. and I suppose it dawned on me too late that since this car is ABS, the bleeding/flushing process may be different than the older cars I'm familiar with. So I give a shop a ring and they tell me it requires a special tool and the price is around $400. Now i've already spent a fortune on this brake upgrade.. and I want it done right, but.. I do not have $400 this month to put into this.. Should I just skip the hoses and do a normal bleed when I swap pads and rotors or something? no special tool is needed. some may say a 10mm flare wrench but it was useless for me. only vise grips worked. as far as bleeding, swap the lines quickly and one at a time and fill the master cylinder each time. this should keep fluid in your lines and air out of the abs system. NEVER EVER LET the master cylinder go empty. i did mine this way during brembo swap and it was super easy to bleed. others can chime in, but i mean thats really the key thing. always have fluid in the master cylinder. period. also search in the how to section for my post with vids on changing the lines on an sti. it will be very helpful. MAYHEM #122/22 STS NNJR SCCA AUTOX4U.COM XENON RETRO GUIDE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 ^^ that is correct. You don't need anything special to bleed the system. If your car has ANY miles on it prepare for a lot of swearing, especially when you are changing the 2 hoses on each side for the rear brakes. I am not a fan of stainless lines, but you already bought them. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 make sure you use line wrenches. regular ones will strip the lines' hex patterns. and use lots of wd-40 to crakc the lines open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 thanks yall, I do have a flarenut wrench but its not metric. Also, I was planning to swap fluids with ATE superblue. Should I just refill it with ATE as I change them and not worry about it or does this change anything? Why are you against SS lines rao? I am hoping to improve overall stopping fro the brake-slamming commute I take every day. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 SS lines are intended to improve brake feel and reduce hose expansion. Plus, they should last forever unlike rubber hoses. They won't shorten your stopping distance. Just add ATE fluid to the reservoir and do a full flush. When you see blue fluid come out at each corner the flush is complete. Make sure you refill the reservoir after you bleed each corner. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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