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How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle


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So temporary use of duct tape or plastic bag is not a dumb idea as long as you do it well AND the boot barely started to loose grease.

Ok, I'm not as dumb as I thought. Maybe I'll try some of that expensive foil tape used for HVAC ductwork, along with some zip-ties.

If it's been a while, then whole axle may need to be replaced.

FWIW, my mechanic (experienced Subie guy who I'm gonna have fix mine now) said they can go about 3000 miles before the joint is ruined. Obviously it depends on how torn the boot is and how dirty the driving conditions, but I feel hopeful because he will get to mine before 1000 miles.

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Ok, I'm not as dumb as I thought. Maybe I'll try some of that expensive foil tape used for HVAC ductwork, along with some zip-ties.

 

^ From my experience, It will be muuuch easier to use a heavy duty thick and large plastic bag which you can easily wrap around the torn boot and zip tie it. Cause as you'll steer left and right, the boot will extend and stuff. And in my case, duct tape did not last. It was a pain.

 

 

FWIW, my mechanic (experienced Subie guy who I'm gonna have fix mine now) said they can go about 3000 miles before the joint is ruined. Obviously it depends on how torn the boot is and how dirty the driving conditions, but I feel hopeful because he will get to mine before 1000 miles.

 

^ Yeah here is the key point: it depends how much dirt and crap may get into it. I know I caught mine real early. I could see the grease was fresh and clean and there were still plenty in the boot. So I quickly covered it until I could replace the boot.

 

 

Here is a newbie question. How much grease is used when packing it?

 

the OEM kit comes with the necessary amount of grease to repack. In any case, it is not much; I'd say about 10oz.

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here is a picture I took when I was changing the boot last september 10. You can see the kit I got with the grease container. As you can see, the container is fairly small and comes less than half full. I can't tell you exactly how much there was in there though.

 

The other picture shows how I temporarily covered up the torn boot. This is how it was AFTER 800 miles of driving!

FLS_4175.thumb.jpg.ff76a54e391df1f547a61aea2b95d11e.jpg

greaseboot.thumb.JPG.74e19a074b36a13fe40906e5d22dd67d.JPG

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Well, the garage is done doing my right-hand side inner boot. Only $128 labor (they didn't say how many hours) and $19 for the part (which is less than the kit from subarupartsforyou, so I hope they put a new axle-nut at least).

 

Note on the invoice said left-hand inner one is leaking, and indeed there seems to be grease leaking out from the clamp at the outer/narrow end. I don't know if that suggests impending failure, probably not; but maybe I'll try it myself when I have more time. Another Subie pal says the left-hand one may last forever (not being near the cat).

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Well, the garage is done doing my right-hand side inner boot. Only $128 labor (they didn't say how many hours) and $19 for the part (which is less than the kit from subarupartsforyou, so I hope they put a new axle-nut at least).

 

Note on the invoice said left-hand inner one is leaking, and indeed there seems to be grease leaking out from the clamp at the outer/narrow end. I don't know if that suggests impending failure, probably not; but maybe I'll try it myself when I have more time. Another Subie pal says the left-hand one may last forever (not being near the cat).

 

^ 19$ for the parts? wow that's cheap. Regarding your left inner one leaking, that is the EXACT same thing that happened to me. Then it actually got torn 10 months later..

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^ 19$ for the parts? wow that's cheap.

I reckon it was just the boot, not the kit, and they used their own grease. Hope it's not supposed to be some special sauce; OTOH, they work on Subie's a LOT, so maybe they have it in bulk. Still, I hope they didn't re-use the axle nut.

Regarding your left inner one leaking, that is the EXACT same thing that happened to me. Then it actually got torn 10 months later..

I guess I'll do it later this year at my leisure.
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Just a follow-up with my personal experience in case anyone is reading this thread for the first time trying to decide whether to tackle this job themselves. After installing my left side axle and discovering the oil seal was leaking, I decided to cut my losses and have a local independent Subaru shop replace the seal and also the right side axle and seal.

 

After learning the hard way how delicate the oil seals are, I realized there was no way I was going to be able to do the other side in my garage with jackstands. Apparently other folks have had a better experience, but basically I know when to fold 'em, and this was one of those times. YMMV.

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Does this appear to be the correct axle for a 2005 2.5 LGT 5EAT? Just looked it up on autozone.com using their parts look up tool.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Reman-CV-Axle/2005-Subaru-Legacy-AWD/_/N-jngwlZ6o2dc?counter=0&itemIdentifier=26123_0_3559_2805

 

I need to replace mine soon. Should I use this part, or just do the "clean and re-use" method that this walk-through discusses?

 

Thanks!

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Whether or not you can rebuild yours or replace depends on how early you caught the failure. If the axle sustained damage you should replace it.

If you are interested in a replacement, check out this thread

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/halfshaft-work-05-lgti-130785.html

The one in your link is a remanufactured axle and some people have reported trouble.

Also note that as per the last page in the link I posted some people have reported vibrations with that replacement axle. It is something that's being investigated.

I rebuilt my axle about 15K miles ago and works great. But I caught it early just when it was barely flinging any grease so it was in top shape.

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Considering the labor charge to replace and repack the boot, to me atleast it seems like it would be a lot easier just replacing the whole axle. A lot less messy too. To swap out an axle takes an hour, maybe less and you don't have to deal with all of the grease. Considering my car had about 75k on it anyway (not a lot in the overall scheme of things) it was a no brainer for me to just swap out the axle when the boot failed, and it was EASY! Now, assuming I don't start shelling out boots left and right, if it failed again in a year or two or whatever, I'd do the same thing again, i.e. the whole axle. I guess if I was in an area where the conditions were more conducive to causing the boots to crack/tear/whatever and I was having to do them more frequently, I'd go the route of just replacing the boot. However, if you're only talking about every 60-80k...
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Does this appear to be the correct axle for a 2005 2.5 LGT 5EAT? Just looked it up on autozone.com using their parts look up tool.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Reman-CV-Axle/2005-Subaru-Legacy-AWD/_/N-jngwlZ6o2dc?counter=0&itemIdentifier=26123_0_3559_2805

 

I need to replace mine soon. Should I use this part, or just do the "clean and re-use" method that this walk-through discusses?

 

Thanks!

 

 

For a few dollars more ($80.00) I got a 100% new axle from Advance Auto Parts last Aug. I'm not a big fan of Remanufactured axles.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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But that $80 "new" axle is not an OEM axle. I've seen a lot of problems with non-OEM axles. They just don't seem to hold up, or they are terribly assembled.

 

That said, rebuilding axles is one of my least favorite jobs.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I'd love to buy OEM axles but the dealer generally wants an arm and a leg for one. IIRC the last time I was quoted $300 for one. But maybe that included labor to replace it.

How strange, usually the aftermarket offers better than OEM parts. This time it's different.

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Once you have replaced one of these the next one is easy. These are a bit more difficult then a honda but that may be because of the chassis brace and stiff bushings I have.

 

It's possible to change one in less then 30 minutes if you know what your doing.

 

I will say the $80.00 axle looks much older then the oem one in the car, I changed the left front last Aug. just pulled the tranny 3 weeks ago, that new axle was all rusty, the oem one 141,000 miles looks great.

 

But for the $80.00 who ever see's it ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Anybody in Houston/Austin/Dallas can help me with this job? I just ordered an AUP 190N axle assembly for my 05 LGT + the seals.... I have never done one before so I'd like to have someone watch me do it and make sure I don't screw up hahaha.
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Considering the troubles reported with re-manufactured and non-OEM axles, and the expense of purchase, I can't see not just rebuilding your own axle. How much trouble can it be, just cleaning out some grease and re-packing ? Of course, I haven't actually done it yet ...
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Not a lot of trouble but remember that rebuilding is only feasible if the torn boot is caught in time.

Definitely something I will add to my monthly set of car chores. Takes about 10sec to just peek down and see if there's grease everywhere. Of course, if it's the one above the catalytic converter, you'll notice the smell right away anyhow !

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I broke down and paid a local independent shop to do mine on Friday as I had 4 hour round trip road trip today and I didn't want to be smelling burning grease. The axle they used was from DriveTech America (DTA). Seems to be a quality unit.

 

I kept my old one to rebuild. Turns out the boot wasn't torn anywhere. The grease was coming out from right near the clamp on the boot. I need to look closer but I guess the seal is failing.

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