Kingfisher Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I'm also in the "replace the halfshaft" group. I can't get a new unit for $75-$80, it's about a 15 minute job to swap it out with air tools, and I don't have to get grease etc. all over myself and everything else. Plus, the replacement is warrantied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I need to replace my LCA bushings and this thread is as good as any to mention separating the lca. I am still on the fence about going at it by separating the balljoint or unbolting it from the lca. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Unbolt and use a cheap pitman arm puller to separate. Works great. In your state (with real weather) ball joint might be a bit seized in the knuckle by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 I need to replace my LCA bushings and this thread is as good as any to mention separating the lca. I am still on the fence about going at it by separating the balljoint or unbolting it from the lca.  To seperate the ball jonit from the LCA you remove the cotter pin, use a impact to remove the nut, "put the nut back on by hand, about 5 threads". You'll understand when you read the next direction. HIT the side of the LCA with a 5lb hammer about 5 times, take a pry bar and see if the ball joint popped out of the LCA. If not, repeat hitting the LCA until the sound changes. When you've done enough of these you can hear a change in the hit. The ball joint fork will tare up the boot. You can replace the boot needed. I just lockwired mine new one on. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 To seperate the ball jonit from the LCA The ball joint fork will tare up the boot. You can replace the boot needed. I just lockwired mine new one on. We always referred to them as "bushing killers" or "bushing destroyers" when I was younger. If you can separate a join like that, any joint like that on any car without a separator fork, you'll be better off. That said, I still have one and most folks who do this kind of thing should have one in their toolbox... just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 We always referred to them as "bushing killers" or "bushing destroyers" when I was younger. If you can separate a join like that, any joint like that on any car without a separator fork, you'll be better off. That said, I still have one and most folks who do this kind of thing should have one in their toolbox... just in case. I acturally have the Sears kit of them, about five different size forks the screw onto a handle.  Hey I wonder if that handle would work for hitting the end of the axle to seat it. I'll try that next time I do a axle. The handle has a point on it that looks like the depression in the axle end. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhawk222 Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Did you use air tools or a breaker bar to remove the axle nut? The axle moves whenever I apply torque making removal impossible for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Did you use air tools or a breaker bar to remove the axle nut? The axle moves whenever I apply torque making removal impossible for me.  Answered in other thread, Yes I use 3/4" scoket and 3/4" impact. If you have a good 1/2" impact it should work too. Leave the car on the ground to break the torque on the nut. Then jack up the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 You can take it off by hand but you have to bend it back straight where it's staked. You'll see where it has a little notch in it and the corners are folded over. However, if you have an impact wrench, it'll take it off regardless of whether you bend it back or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhawk222 Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Thanks for the quick reply.....I already bent the tabs back. Now when I try to take it off the axle is rotating with the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Thanks for the quick reply.....I already bent the tabs back. Now when I try to take it off the axle is rotating with the nut. Put the tire back on and lower the car to the ground. Put it in gear and E brake on. Then try and break the nut lose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Take hub cap out of wheel. Put car on ground with hub nut exposed. Block wheels. Now you can remove nut. It is how to do it when no air tools are available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 The tech manual specifically states not to have the wheel on the ground when you take the axle nut loose or wheel bearing damage will occur. Like everything else YMMV. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Notice how I say break the nut lose, not remove it. But thanks for clearing up any confusion out there. It's good to have people check us every now and then. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Wheel bearing damage would occur if the car slipped. It should not. But, I should have been more specific. You can loosen the nut. Meaning break torque. But then you must take pressure off the knuckle to remove the nut. It is unlikely, but something bad could occur. So, once torque is cracked, lift the car, remove the wheel and then remove the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 And I would add that once you have loosen the nut and lifted the car up, if the axle still spins while taking off the nut, use the brakes to hold the wheels in place. And gently loosen the nut. It worked for me. Did it 4 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Or go ghetto and stick a pin in the brake vane and let it hit the caliper to hold in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 ghetto - but it works... - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hay, honestly, not my first choice. But if you are stuck in a parking lot or drive way, all alone and you cant seem to get it to work... drastic measure must be taken. Too far into the job to turn around... car has to be on the road (we all know how it is)... do whatever it takes without breaking something else. ghetto, yes. but could be a life saver in the right situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turn and schmern Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 anyone ever used an empi replacement on the 3rd gen? how'd that go for ya haha? local store has those stocked, both complete half shafts and just cv replacement kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Welcome to the forum. I have no personal experience with that one. But probably worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leglover Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 special thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, yet again this forum has saved me time and money Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turn and schmern Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Welcome to the forum. I have no personal experience with that one. But probably worth a shot. thanks m sprank! Apparently empi is the company that makes the better-reviewed axles sold by Mac Auto, so I think I'll go for it. I had problems removing a couple of the suspension links- the through bolt and the 19mm bolt on the a-arm, trying to do this without taking my BJ out of the knuckle. Anyone have tips? Jack up the car more in order to be able to use a longer bar is all I'm thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy360 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 So my passenger side CV boot is leaking grease as of sometime this last week. I'd much rather rebuild/repair the seal then purchase the entire axle assembly. Would it be best to purchase all the necessary parts from a dealer or purchasing a rebuilt kit from Napa, Oreily's, etc? Looking to try to get this fixed this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 I can't really say which one would be best. In my case, I used an OEM kit and it cost me around 40-50$ iirc, bought online. Not sure which kit (i.e. OEM vs. the rest) provides a more durable boot though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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