holter95 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Used this writeup as a guide for my CV boot replacement yesterday, and It's 100% correct. I may add for clarification: - Be very careful when pulling the halfshaft out of the diff. There's a ring clip on the end of the halfshaft that can snag the oil seal on the diff on the way out. - When reinstalling the halfshaft into the diff, the service manual says to insert the halfshaft into the wheel hub first, then the diff. This is crap, as I couldn't get it to align, or shove in. It takes some force. I recommend this: 1. If you've disconnected the LBJ, swing the spindle out of the way (towards the front of the car) 2. Get the halfshaft into position and CAREFULLY insert it into the diff until the splines start to engage 3. Swing the free end of the halfshaft so that it threads through the plastic fender shield (this is where the spindle needs to be out of the way), so that the halfshaft is sticking straight out from the diff. 4. With the halfshaft straight, push in on the halfshaft to get the splines to engage fully. It takes some force, and you may have to wiggle a bit, but with it straight, it works much better. 5. Then insert the outer spline into the hub 6. Continue reassembly of spindle to LBJ, sta-bar link, etc. I found absolutely no need to disconnect the strut, as once I was able to pop the LBJ loose, the spindle would swing freely out of my way. Maybe because I have an Outback and the strut is longer, allowing more room to swing. My only real problem was figuring out how to use the stupid boot clamp crimp tool... it wasn't obvious, so I fashioned my own way of crimping the bands with a small punch and a needlenose. Hope it works. Total fix was $60 in parts (including 2-day air expedite). $100 in tools and supplies, most of which can be re-used for other repairs. It took me a better half of a day, but was worth the learning lesson, especially considering the near $1K estimate the stealership gave me to do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Used this writeup as a guide for my CV boot replacement yesterday, and It's 100% correct. I may add for clarification: +1 on being a great write-up, I used it Saturday to replace mine. Only thing I'd like to add, use a metal wedge(millwright wedge) to remove the LBJ from the spindle, much easier than a pry bar at least on my car(~65k miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Inigo Montoya, can you post a P/N list (and where you got them from) for the rebuild....bearing, cup, boot and all? I can't seem to find it on fred beans or any OEM catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Inigo Montoya, can you post a P/N list (and where you got them from) for the rebuild....bearing, cup, boot and all? I can't seem to find it on fred beans or any OEM catalog. post#25 and the site where to get the part#'s. I picked mine up from here although there's several online subaru parts dealers to pickem up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holter95 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Inigo Montoya, can you post a P/N list (and where you got them from) for the rebuild....bearing, cup, boot and all? I can't seem to find it on fred beans or any OEM catalog. Unless the bearings/cup are damaged, there's no need to replace them. Simply clean thoroughly and regrease. If the bearings are gritty, you probably have to get them from your Subie dealer. I highly doubt the cup needs replacing at all unless you got gravel in the boot or you damaged the splines pulling it out of the differential (not likely). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Ok, thanks. The link on post 25 doesn't work and the P/N weren't plugging in at fredbeans. I think my cup and bearings are done and I'll need a true rebuild because I am getting binding with tight manuvering. So I'm guessing the DIY rebuild cost a bit more than the original $40 that started this thread? He had mentioned he replaced the cup as well, but doesn't have it on the parts list. I would like to know if he was able to buy the cup and bearings as I don't see them sold even on trademotion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holter95 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Unless I'm reading it wrong, he did not replace the cup. I did not have to either. In fact I'd think the cup would have to be pretty damaged (deeply scored or gouged) to warrant replacing it, and that is unlikely. It's a big meaty chunk of metal, and more likely the binding is in the bearings as they have a lot less tolerance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT_King Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 FYI: You can get a full replacement from Meyer's out here for $80 once you return your blown one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Well, I guess I may have taken what he said too literally...."new green cup". Anyway you're prolly right about the bearings going first, anyone know the P/N or where to get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaccaroja Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 dealership wants 370 for an axle.. damn... 13.6 @ 102 untuned FTW SmartWax - Spec Clutch - Team Scp 1 http://newenglandsubarus.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreene Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Does anyone have a source or part numbers for the actual bearings? My boot has been torn for months it seems and the dealer says it needs a new axle. I'd rather rebuild it (considering the axle price of almost $400!) but they don't sell the bearings at the dealership, they only sell the whole assembly and rebuilt ones aren't available for the 06 yet. This is for an 06 OB XT2.5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dowright82 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Did anyone ever find a decent price on a axle/cv halfshaft . . . all I have around here is an AUTOZONE Reman for $129 Subaru wants $379 is it really worth it?? My transmission guy (long time friend) HIGHLY recommends AGAINST replacing ONLY the boot/cup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dowright82 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Well guys, I just ordered this part: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370269165321#ht_3067wt_1165 And I'll keep ya posted as far as part quality, fitment, etc . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaccaroja Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 my right front axle was a OEM replacement from International auto parts. Appears the axle is to short and keeps poping of the cv boot. 13.6 @ 102 untuned FTW SmartWax - Spec Clutch - Team Scp 1 http://newenglandsubarus.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 Well guys, I just ordered this part: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370269165321#ht_3067wt_1165 And I'll keep ya posted as far as part quality, fitment, etc . . .Please do, had mine up for an oil change yesterday and found the PS boot torn. Appreciate any update/info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 my right front axle was a OEM replacement from International auto parts. Appears the axle is to short and keeps poping of the cv boot. you might have the wrong axle. Make sure the axle also fits '06 because some place list the modle before ours as '05 Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 (edited) is this a common problem on the legacy? I was just underneath my car changing fluid and what do you know, my front passenger axle looks IDENTICAL to the pictures on the first page. what gives?? i'm at 60K on my 05 LGT EDIT: btw i just called up my local dealership and these were the prices they told me: new boot: $15 retaining bands: 1 is 6.53, the other is 5.21 grease kit: 15.60 or a new OEM axle is 369.96 ouch I also called a local subaru repair shop. $491.84 for a new axle installed. -Luke Edited October 12, 2009 by lkailburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inigo Montoya Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 (edited) When I did mine I did not have time to have the dealership do it, so I figured I would try it on my own. That being said I think I caught mine quickly, as I have put 10K on the car since and have not had any problems, once I cleaned out the old grease and inspected everything, it looked fine. I did get the grease kit, boot and bands from the dealership. Oh, I just edited the original post to reflect that I did not replace the green 'cup' Edited October 14, 2009 by Inigo Montoya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dowright82 Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Well guys, I just ordered this part: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370269165321#ht_3067wt_1165 And I'll keep ya posted as far as part quality, fitment, etc . . . This part fit PERFECTLY and even has a heavier-duty boot!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 nice. 70$+20shipping for a brand new axel? nice deal. lets hope mine will be salvageable. I just purchased the new boot, straps and grease kit from the local stealership. gonna start on it tomorrow right after work. -Luke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 (edited) EDIT: Summarized my project in the next post. -Luke Edited October 18, 2009 by lkailburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 (edited) Ok I'll just sumarize my experience in a short paragraph rather then a couple of posts. 1. what is the special tool used for preventing the swaybar endlink stud from spinning? 2. that LBJ design is a bitch. i could NOT free mine from the knuckle. I removed the castle nut but could not get the lbj to seperate from the LCA either. instead i unbolted the LCA from the frame of the car and swung everything aside together. 3. When disassembling the innards of the axle, be sure to make alignment marks and put it back on exactly how it came off. 4. The ring on that axle inner spline was a major PITA. Both getting it out and putting it back into the tranny/diff. To make life easier i actually took the ring off the axle and sanded it down a little so it wasn't quite as big and then put it back on. Nothing major, but a little to make the job easier. Obviously be super careful to clean everything up. 5. Make sure you apply grease to the splines before reinstalling 6. Torque everything to spec -Luke Edited October 18, 2009 by lkailburn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inigo Montoya Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 For the swaybar endlink, I just used an appropriate sized allen wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 (edited) great write up Inigo Montoya. I am going to do the exact same thing for my XT this coming week. I already have the new OEM kit (boot, grease,...) on my desk right now but it is snowing and I don't have a garage dang it I am a bit confused or worried about that "ring on that axle inner spline". I don't remember seeing this on your write up but it has been mentioned by other people here...Any picture of this ring? Oh, also since I may loose a bit of trans oil, if I need to refill would you recommend any special brand and oil type for a manual trans? Oh and I am new to this forum. I don't have a Legacy GT but I do have an XT which is pretty similar (apart from ground clearance and other things) I guess Edited November 14, 2009 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Just a follow-up. I also changed my front right inner cv axle boot today, cleaned up the whole thing. It was actually not hard at all. Your pictures and explanations helped tons. I did use OEM grease, boot and clamp. It went very well. Thanks man. I took that opportunity to change my transmission fluid as well. It was about time actually! So I am a happy camper now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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