SBT Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 If they're clicking, they're done. Don't reuse them. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Just talked to Marty over at Raxles. What a great guy! I didn't want to take a chance on some aftermarket units. I know some have worked but with suppliers changing, this is job I only want to do once. I have some motul 300 on the way next week so I'll throw out a review post-install. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 What's the pricing for an axle and does he only accept subaru axles as cores? * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 What's the pricing for an axle and does he only accept subaru axles as cores? Yes. He only accepts OEM axles for cores. His price was $159 per side. I think that included the core charge. He's out of Florida so you can gauge the shipping on top of that. He also includes a prepaid shipping label for you to return the cores. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Hi all - I was taking my front axles out today because I am pulling my transmission out to get to my clutch (this is my 3rd clutch btw...what a pain!) When I pulled my right axle out, a crap ton of tranny fluid cam out....I mean like a solid quart! I have not experience that before. I can only think of two things. 1.) I damaged my axle seal somehow when I was pulling the axle out. 2.) The whole car is on jack stands and the rear is ever so slightly higher than the front. So I was thinking maybe the fluid in the trans was pooling towards the front of the tranny and therefore leaking out when I pulled the axle? I guess I should just replace the seals anyway now that I have 117,XXX miles on the car. Oh yeah, I killed my the ball joint in my LCA....so gotta get a new one of those too! How hard is it to remove and replace that sucker? Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 ^ They (seals) are cheap, they're easy to take-out and put-in, and, as you mentioned, Cali mileage (read: dry heat) is not gentle on seals. Replacing the Ball Joint is a piece of cake on these, especially California cars. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 I'm worried about the fluid loss....would a "broken" seal do that? Or do you think it was how my car was jacked up? or combo of both? It was old formula Extra-S fluid to....now I have to drain the whole thing and put in a new type of fluid since I can't get that fluid anymore (as far as I know). Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 It was how your car was tilted front-to-rear. Level, or slightly lower at the rear and you wouldn't have seen much loss from the differential side. Same thing happened on my 05 when I pulled the axle to reboot the CVJ. Lowered the rear quickly and it slowed to a stop. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Thanks for helping! Live and learn. Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I'm worried about the fluid loss....would a "broken" seal do that? Or do you think it was how my car was jacked up? or combo of both? It was old formula Extra-S fluid to....now I have to drain the whole thing and put in a new type of fluid since I can't get that fluid anymore (as far as I know). I was able to buy the extra s stuff from my local dealer last year. They buy it by the drum and sell it by the liter. (BYOB) For them to fill up. From my understanding not all dealers have it/will even bother getting it. Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I bought the last of my dealer's Extra S as well. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Does anyone know how to disassembled the outer cv joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Does anyone know how to disassembled the outer cv joint? Remove the boot. Then use a big mallet, bend the joint and hit it off. There is no circlip on the outer cv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Remove the boot. Then use a big mallet, bend the joint and hit it off. There is no circlip on the outer cv. The inner joint uses a metal retaining 'ring' you remove with pliers. The outer joint uses a circlip that you won't be able to see. It's the same type of circlip that holds the axle shaft into the diff. A rubber mallet will help separate the outer joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) This video rocks! Super easy way of changing inner boots without removing axle from wheel hub or transmission. Took me 45 min. Skip ahead to 5:00 for the action Edited July 23, 2016 by Fasemelta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebe Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) This video rocks! Super easy way of changing inner boots without removing axle from wheel hub or transmission. Took me 45 min. Skip ahead to 5:00 for the action ^^^ Was about to post up that my axle is stuck in the hub...the above video showed me how to work around the need to remove the axle from the hub. Hope I don't have to replace the axle anytime soon. Edited July 23, 2016 by Zebe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaceRedFiveOh Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 This video rocks! Super easy way of changing inner boots without removing axle from wheel hub or transmission. Took me 45 min. Skip ahead to 5:00 for the action Thanks!!! Ill be doing this next weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbohip Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Just did this yesterday on my wife's '05 LGT wagon. The original lasted just over 90k miles and about 12 years so pretty good. I had the axle out of the car within 20 minutes of jacking it up. I used my finger to push it out of the hub. The joys of working on a car that grew up in rust free Albuquerque! The inner boot was of course the one that had split but I went ahead and replaced the outer boot too since I had it apart anyway. The worst part of the job turned out to be the boot straps. Even though I bought a CV boot strap tightening tool I couldn't get it to work quite right and the straps kept trying to slide off the boots. Got it done though and the joints still looked perfect as the boot had only been torn for a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Back in 2009 when I bought our 35k miles 05, she had a torn inner cv boot. I changed it with an OEM one. Well, she is at 90k now 7 years later and the boot finally torn and made a mess . I am on my third replacement now (1 pass / 2 driver side) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwiny Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 How do you tell when the cv boot is worn out without having to check under the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 If you think the boot might be ripped and you have a camera on your phone, just reach under your car behind the passenger side wheel, and start blindly taking pictures up. If you see a torn boot, or that greenish colored grease flung everywhere, you probably have a torn boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 so this method only works for what ever year this is. i saw the solid tri bearing surface and thought it would be ok to soak mine in mineral spirits to get them clean. not a good idea i took the rings off the tri piece and soaked them then discovered there was another bearing underneath.that is nearly impossible to see if you follow this and you will end up with something that breaks down grease in those bearings stuck there and unable to clean that will probably just kill them and need replacing soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimblaz Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 are the cv axles the same on the spec b as the LGT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 are the cv axles the same on the spec b as the LGT?Yes, they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dade Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 are the cv axles the same on the spec b as the LGT? Yes, they are. This is not completely correct. The front axles are the same for an LGT & a spec.B. The rear axles are different due to the R180 rear diff and are only available on the spec.B. There are no cheap aftermarket replacements for the rear axles on a spec.B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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