gimpydingo Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 I went with the ES brand that is recommended. They are poly and come with brackets, seem solid. I got greasable, 20.5mm for the front and 16mm. back. No 21mm greasable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Wouldn't happen to have a link to that? Gonna have to do them when I swap out the turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Universal-Sway-Bar-Bushings.asp 9.5157 front and 9.5154 rear Planning on doing this tomorrow. Hopefully my endlink is just noisey like yours was Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Got the axle situated. THANK YOU IT WAS JUST THE ENDLINKS!!! I ended up using some WD40 on the ball joint to get some rust off and smeared a small amount of (gulp) diff fluid on the ball, all I had haha. Whatever those need to be replaced too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Haha, I am glad to hear, its amazing how much noise they can make! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yeah, crazy noise. I was just thinking, great here we go what did I do. New bushings didn't come with grease. I was looking forward to see how it corners with the new ones. I'll go out tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 You will have to end up grinding down the front brackets to make them fit. My front passenger I have to cut some of the end off of one end and grind a bit of the edge away on the other end as well as the front drivers side. Rears just go back on. Took me a while, but got it done. Just used a dremel for the grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Sounds easy enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 It is, just takes time. You'll see where to grind as soon as you put the bracket on. I just scratched where to grind with a screw driver. Def more stiff on the corners. What do you know, no noise with this install, unlike my axle haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 That's awesome, what did you use to grease them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Ended up getting some silicon grease of some sort from the part store. Said it wouldn't wash away with water or chemicals and temps to 400 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Thanks. I got it popped in, took a few good whacks. Here is a pic of the spring, about 3 inches around. This is not the c clip on the end of the axle. I believe it came out of the diff :spin::spin: EDIT: Looks like it's from the Axle seal...of course!! Yeah - that looks like it's from the inside of the axle seal...hopefully the old one that you replaced? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 replaced?! hahaha that would have been an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9thwonder Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 So like some others in this thread I put a pin hole in the passenger side boot while trying to remove the old suspension and install coilovers on my 2014. Gonna be installing a brand new cv assembly since I couldn't seem to find an outer boot kit for my car. Just want to clarify some things from reading this thread; 1) to avoid having diff/tranny fluid spill, raise the front of the car a good amount? Both tires or just the side I'm working on? 2) when removing/installing the axle from the tranny, is the idea to keep it as straight as possible? Is it really that tough to avoid hitting the seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I didn't know you had to remove the axle for a coilover install. Is that something specific to the 5th gens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 So like some others in this thread I put a pin hole in the passenger side boot while trying to remove the old suspension and install coilovers on my 2014. Gonna be installing a brand new cv assembly since I couldn't seem to find an outer boot kit for my car. Just want to clarify some things from reading this thread; 1) to avoid having diff/tranny fluid spill, raise the front of the car a good amount? Both tires or just the side I'm working on? 2) when removing/installing the axle from the tranny, is the idea to keep it as straight as possible? Is it really that tough to avoid hitting the seal? I raised just the side I worked on, makes the fluid sit away from the hole. You'll still leak some but nothing crazy just check your fluid lvl after. Its a good idea to keep it very straight. But I was quite rough on mine and no leaks. It needed some love to seat all the way in. If worried pick up a seal as spare. There easy enough to replace if you do mess it up. But again I was hard on my 10year old seals and everything was fine. I used some of the gear oil on the input shaft to the tranny and made sure the seal was nice and wet with it just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I didn't know you had to remove the axle for a coilover install. Is that something specific to the 5th gens? I don't think he removed the Axel, sounds like he just hit the boot while swapping parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 So like some others in this thread I put a pin hole in the passenger side boot while trying to remove the old suspension and install coilovers on my 2014. Gonna be installing a brand new cv assembly since I couldn't seem to find an outer boot kit for my car. Just want to clarify some things from reading this thread; 1) to avoid having diff/tranny fluid spill, raise the front of the car a good amount? Both tires or just the side I'm working on? 2) when removing/installing the axle from the tranny, is the idea to keep it as straight as possible? Is it really that tough to avoid hitting the seal? Here's the parts: http://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2014&modelName=legacy36l-5at-4wd36r-sedan&ukey_assembly=6024673&ukey_category=54106&assembly=b14-280-02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9thwonder Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Wow! I could not find anything like that when I was looking. I only checked a few sites such as RockAuto and SubaruGenuineParts. I called the local dealer and they said it would be special order and $55ish for just the boot. So I decided to pay just a little more and get a whole axle from Napa. Just waiting for it to get in today or tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parad1mg Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Got my axle boots from rockauto. For under $60, I can replace all 4 boots on the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 I went with the ES brand that is recommended. They are poly and come with brackets, seem solid. I got greasable, 20.5mm for the front and 16mm. back. No 21mm greasable. I just ordered mine and under a different set of part numbers they had 16 and 21mm greasable. 11.95 each... order was 70$ after tax shipping and the dollar difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 For all folks replacing axles - is anyone aware that 07-09 MT turbo front axles are shorter (at least per FSM) than 05-06 (and non-MT non-turbo ones)? I discovered it quite a while ago: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-axle-length-mystery-113428.html And re-discovered while replacing the axle today: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-axle-identification-help-2005-vs-2008i-241605.html?p=5160132#post5160132 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I'll find out today. Installing my 08 Spec B 6MT axles. *Fingers Crossed* - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Fronts? Btw, I believe the overall length (when compressed) is the same, it's just the "rod" portion is shorter on 07+ and the wheel side cv joint accordingly longer. Basically a change in the geometry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaklandmiLGT Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 (edited) I believe others have stated this in the early pages of this thread but i wouldnt want someone to miss this info now that our cars are high mileage and our ball joints are more of a pain to work with. There is a way to replace front cv axles without touching your ball joints. Ill list how i did it step by step. I will start with the disclaimer of: if you dont have an impact you will have to remove the axle nut a different way. Such as removing it while a friend holds the brakes for you. But besides that, here is my method. *edit* this is obvious but jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands. 1. Remove wheel 2. Mark camber bolt position 3. Disconnect abs line and flex hose from strut. 4. Disconnect strut from hub 5. Remove caliper from rotor/hub 6. Impact off your axle nut, no need to try and round out the pushed in part of the nut, the impact took care of it. 7. Now you have enough room to knock the axle out of the hub with a wooden mallet or a big hammer and some wood in between the two. Once that side is out pry out the differential side of the axle. *you will lose a small amount of trans fluid. Also be careful when removing/installing axle into diff because you can mess up the seal. 8.Now just reverse the steps. Put some gear oil on the part of the axle that enters the diff. Put the axle into the diff THEN the hub. 9.To get the axle nut tightened back on i first re attached the strut to the hub, the flex hose and abs line to strut and the caliper to the hub. Then i had a friend hold the brakes while i torqued the axle nut. I have done this to both sides and its a quick, easy method. I used a1 cardone remans and one has been on for a year so far with no problems. The other just got installed yesterday but no problems with it. I have an 07 gt manual trans and both front axles were the same pn. The seals were different from left to right though. Edited June 1, 2015 by oaklandmiLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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