theflystyle Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 ^ I would imagine the spinning would fling most of the protectant off and the high-temperatures would also be something to worry about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Yep wrap the exhaust, it dosen't spin...LOL 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hi, I'm confused about part numbers for 05 LGT. Is part# 7355 for LGT or non turbo? or both? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Which P/N? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malimx6 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I'm assuming 7355 is cardone part# off RockAuto?? I want to ensure that is a correct part# for LGT front passenger side axel. thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Unfortunately you can not ever be 100% positive. All the re-manufactures will rebuild whatever is returned as a core. So, most of the time you get a true OEM original axle that has been rebuilt. But... sometimes you get an aftermarket axle (like an EMPI) that was given as a core and rebuilt. Buy local, that way you can inspect and if it is not 100% OEM that has been re-manufactured dont accept it and ask for another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 FYI - I just replaced both front axles (passenger side CV boot ripped) with *New* Cardone axles (not rebuilds) from RockAuto.com. Price you ask? $45.79 per axle. (Pn: 667355) http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=667355 I marked the camber bolts and disconnected the strut instead - I couldn't easily get the ball joint out. But removing from above worked fine. No noise, no vibration, no problems during installation - seems to be a perfect fit and it came with new axle nuts. OEM may be better in ways unknown, but they look perfect to me and they seem to work great on my 05 LGT. I just did the same thing. So far the Cardone axle works great and man it's so much easier than rebuilding the OEM one, which I did last time. I still have that sitting on my workbench in case I don't want to pay $65ish next time another goes out. Also, whomever (maybe Underdog) mentioned to me that it's easier to pull the halfshaft without messing up the seal if you just drop the whole control arm, thank you! It is SO much easier that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kev master Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Unfortunately you can not ever be 100% positive. All the re-manufactures will rebuild whatever is returned as a core. So, most of the time you get a true OEM original axle that has been rebuilt. But... sometimes you get an aftermarket axle (like an EMPI) that was given as a core and rebuilt. Buy local, that way you can inspect and if it is not 100% OEM that has been re-manufactured dont accept it and ask for another. How do you tell if its an OEM reman or not? Is there some stamping on the original one that you can always tell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 The housings are different. Only OEM has the "indentations". Aftermarket are smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 For future reference: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1440457&parttype=2284 I got this tool from Amazon as well. I also used both of these. The Beck/Arnley p/n 1033042 along with this same tool that I bought at NAPA for $17. I was amazed the tool was cheaper at NAPA than at Amazon. This particular CV banding tool works great on both the larger and small diameter CV bands. I was very impressed with how well it worked. Some key points from my recent install: 32mm impact socket and air wrench worked great. I had to buy a $5 32mm socket from Harbor Freight.Instead of removing the control arms or popping the ball joint out, I disconnected the two bolts that attach the strut to the wheel hub. To keep the camber alignment settings, I used a pen to mark the location of the camber nut and the strut. Like a moron, I forgot to also mark the bolt head, so I lost my alignment. The bolt head, strut, and nut all have to maintain their original relative position. Oops. I also initially forgot to disconnect the brake line and the ABS line from the strut, so I'm lucky I didn't rip them.I put the vehicle up on a single jackstand. Obviously, this prevented me from turning the steering wheel to rotate the wheel hub. This made removing the axle from the hub a lot harder since the hub could only down downward and not to the side (since the tie rod was still attached). I really had to awkwardly muscle out the axle from the hub.No transmission fluid leaked out until I was reinstalling the axle. I must have tapped the seal with the shaft during reinstall since a 1/2 spoonful ended up coming out. Once everything went back in, no more fluid appeared to leaking.This is a job that is do-able by one person, but you will need some muscle to insert the axle back into the transmission. This is easier with two people, but not mandatory. It took me 4-5 hours because I was very slow and careful. I could reboot one again in under 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Thanks to this thread and a couple youtube videos I was able to do replace my passenger front axle with a torn/leaky cv boot in an hour and a half. Love DIY stuff...saves money and helps with my turbo upgrade funding lol. Got my replacement part from NAPA auto parts and inspected to make sure it had them oem markings/grooves (thanks Msprank and many more members on here) car feels good and no more weird sounds! That 32mm axle nut was my only struggle...but with pb blaster penetrating, I was able to bust a nut loose...no mess thank goodness lol Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Wait... Do you have a 2.5i? I hope your turbo upgrade is the purchase of a 2.5GT and not a turbo kit for the 2.5i. Glad the forum helped you out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 ^2.5 GT of course...took off the 2.5GT badge and rebadged with PZEV hehehehe Its a loud NA eco-friendly car PS I had a 09 Lemon 2.5i SE 5 spd and traded it with my 08 GT...SOA helped me out Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vengeance68 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Trying to sift through the part numbers and brands is a little overwhelming... I have an 05 LGT Turbo sedan 5sp AT. Would someone please list part numbers and preferred brands for; Front boots, passenger and driver side Complete front axles, passenger and driver sides Many thanks, Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vengeance68 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hellooooooo? Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Subaru oem. parts counter will get you the right part numbers/parts. Sent from my XT1028 * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Further depth... http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/ http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495128001.png http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495128002.png But you'll need to dig into it to get the actual part numbers. Not hard at all, and useful for your future part number look-ups. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I went to Canadian tire, 125$ tax in for a new axle with life time warrenty. couldn't go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Yes, you can. When you notice the vibration in drive with your foot on the brake, let us know. For my Tribeca it was a vibration in about 40 MPH that was driving me nuts. Fixed with a used OEM axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Manual car, I don't sit with my foot on the brake in drive. I will update when I get it installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sk8erOrd Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 The housings are different. Only OEM has the "indentations". Aftermarket are smooth. Can you clarify the "indentations"? And where they are located? 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium w/ PP (6MT) 2006 LGT Ltd 5MT OBP Cobb Short Throw Shifter | GS Catless Up Pipe Gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielLGT Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 So far so good, only a few kms on the new one. Smooth and no noise so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Instead of the tranny cup being a cylinder, it has 3 concave indentations running it's entire length. The cross section is always the same. Sent from my XT1028 * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Finally getting around to replacing my boot on my 07. Have not driven that much on it since it's been leaking. Any suggestions on where to buy the parts. Here are the avg prices I've found using the list provided here and referencing OF. 28395AG04A Grease Package $28.82 - will get another brand. 28323AG010 Boot Ptj82 $24.96 23242GA400 Band Axle Boot $1.52 $5.21 23242GA410 Band Axle Sft Boot $1.49 $5.21 28335AG00A Snap Ring $3.81 $4.55 28333AG000 Cir Ring $5.48 Total $74.23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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