jcs Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I just put a new clutch in and one of my boots was throwing some oil so because i had both axles out, I shipped them to a place in Salt Lake City (CV Axles) and they rebuilt my axles for $60 each. Turned them around in two days. Nice guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planelazy Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 I get to replace another half shaft next month.. yay. First time was passenger front, this time it's drivers side front. Well, at least both of my ball joints are relatively new, so they shouldn't be seized. But refresh my memory, it was Duralast #7336 that everyone was recommending, wasn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itzed Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Yes, that's the remanufactured one. I have that one on my driver's side and it's good. However, I've also had to replace the one on my passenger side and when I went to Autozone for that, they were out of the remanufactured and only had the new. So I bought it. It's 7336N. I used it, and it's been fine also. Time will tell on both of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightFantastic Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) Nevermind. Edited September 29, 2014 by LightFantastic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Ball joint is the way to go, IF, you have replaced the ball joint recently. Saves you from needing to have it aligned. It can be a real pain if the ball joint is old and crusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 I have a Snypa's Ball tugger if anyone wants to borrow it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itzed Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 If the ball joint doesn't need to be replaced, just leave it in the knuckle and pop it loose from the control arm. Much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planelazy Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 And 806735290 is the right seal? I read the seals are directional but Fred Beans can't confirm it's the right one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/train/differential_transmission/illustration_1/ New part number: 806735300 xxx90 is the left hand side I don't recall if they were directional or not. Edited October 8, 2014 by compsurge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planelazy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Lol i didnt think about this diagram. I was looking at the transmission, axle, drivetrain... it wasnt on any of those. Never even thought about the differential Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/train/differential_transmission/illustration_1/ New part number: 806735300 xxx90 is the left hand side I don't recall if they were directional or not. YES, they are directional. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5mt-axle-seals-230862.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 When pulling the axle, do you guys pop it out by prying away at the green cup? Or do you just pull it out from the hub area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Pry the green cup away from the transmission using a pry bar. You'll pull it into pieces if you try yanking from the hub. It doesn't take much effort to do it right. It'll pop right out. To get it back in, you might need more force than you think you do. You have to overcome the spring clip on the stub end of the shaft that goes into the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 This is what Subaru uses to get them started out of the trans. Works really well. Easy push, and "pops" right out. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/24/e9629764ae10fad44e994b13ad22eda4.jpg crappy phone pic, but recently got a 7336 from autozone and i don't know what to say. the tranny end wasn't entirely turned down to the correct diameter, so i had to file the very tip so it wasn't an interference fit. after getting it installed, the boot on the tranny end, as shown, is buckling. makes a nice drone at speed, or anytime i'm moving really. not impressed. my passenger axle is a 7336 also, so not my first rodeo or rebuilt autozone axle. gonna get my old oem rebooted and back on. then look for an oem spare to rebuild and have on hand... Sent from my XT1028 * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 If there was an issue you noted pre-install, why did you not return it for another. You still can under warranty. As with any remanufactuered part, they should always be inspected. I ordered a reman axle for a 09 2.5i last week. Guess what showed up? A remanufactured EMPI axle. I refused it. Next one that arrive (2 hour later) was a remanufactured OEM. Back in business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) M sprank, how can I tell if my autozone 7336 is a rebuilt Subaru axle? A few weeks ago I purchased a 7336 axle at an autozone store, and it had dark grey/silver cups and ear clamps on the cv boot as shown in the attached picture. I then ordered a second one a week later from autozone.com, and this one arrived with a black axle cup, and band clamps on the cv boot. I returned this axle since it was damaged in transit. So I went to an autozone store again, and this time I got another 7336 axle with the dark grey/silver cups and ear clamps on the cv boot like in the picture below. I'm guessing that the 7336 axles with the dark grey/silver cups are remanufactured subaru axles since they have NTN stamped on the axle cups like my oem subaru axle does? Edited October 26, 2014 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 The aftermarket "cups" wont have the indents in them. They will be round and smooth. The shafts tend not to have the step in them either. Subaru has painted them green, gray/silver, black. Dont worry so much about the color, they could easily be repainted as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) just to add more info, my "reman" cups had the indents, but were flat on the other three sides. also, the reason my reman doesn't work is cause the boot doesn't have enough flex for as much as a stock outback "bends" the axle. legacies may have better results. I did check around other autozones to see what they had for reman axles and they were all the same (indents and flat sides), and my autozone "didn't believe me" when I told them that the axle isn't right for an outback. they got it back. i'm rebooting my original axle and putting it back in. might check back at autozone in a year to see if they have an actual rebuilt Subaru axle for my personal stock, but I figure i'm redoing boots from here on out. or having a local joint shop redo it if bearings start screaming (assuming they charge less than the $400 price tag of a new Subaru axle). Edited October 28, 2014 by Flinkly * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_42/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_3/ might be useful in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 well, got my first set of parts for the boot, and the parts guy ordered in the wrong set. axle reboots aren't common enough to keep parts in stock. was in a rush and only noticed when I got home that the boot was a hard plastic, and after that noticed it didn't have the 3 bumps to mate with the dents in the cup. now I ordered the actual boot kit set (just inner boot, 28397AG000) for $35. even better than what I paid for the outer boot yesterday ($45). i'll let ya'll know how it works out tomorrow afternoon, but i'm sure it'll go swimmingly. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Amazon had the best prices for the beck arnley boots for subarus that I could find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) For future reference: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1440457&parttype=2284 I got this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4623-Joint-Banding-Cutter/dp/B00063XX5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414763959&sr=8-1&keywords=cv+band+tool]tool[/ame] from Amazon as well. Edited October 31, 2014 by compsurge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Solve a vibration at 55 mph for my 08 Tribeca. I thought that I would mention it since most times I see the issue as a vibration in drive. This was not that, just a vibration around 55. I bought a used Tribeca axle for $36 from subarupair used parts yesterday afternoon along with a new diff seal. They wouldn't sell me a new axle nut. They said no way you need it. Replaced the one side that was clearly aftermarket (replaced by previous owner, inner cup was bare metal and didn't have the three indents like the subaru with green cups) and sure enough, the vibration at 55 is gone. Sweeeeeeet.... Took an easy going 2 hours. I used the FSM (attached section) and these instructions http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=seal http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...oil-r-r-2.html for seal replacement. I used a small claw hammer to remove and drove it in with the old seal on the outside and a 32 mm socket on that. I did go after the ball joint, as here in colorado they don't rust. Others in the NE or other salt road areas report bad luck doing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Just did this with the beck arnley cv boot kit for the front right inner axle on my 08 3.0r. Reused the stock clamps since I couldn't find the proper clamp tensioner. Also I tried literally everything to get the ball joint out so I did like a few others and just removed the other side of the control arm and swung the entire assembly out. Pryed the axle out of the transmission and no leaks (5eat). The 3.0r has two headers, and I'm wondering about the driver side boot. It's looking a bit crispy but no tears. I've heard talk of applying grease or spraying silicone on rubber boots to make them last longer. You think that would work? Also going to wrap the headers to prevent the boots from drying out from exhaust heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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