lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 After putting LC-1 on my lachute DP last night I run a couple of WOTs, seen some knock, added a fuel and logged again. No knock after that , LV looked better, less fuel was added on c and D cells. However, looking at my LC-1 log data i do not really see any changes in fuel. Is it that much not accurate? I've attached: Log1 and fuel1 - log and OP fule map (leaner) Log2 and fuel2 - log and fuel map (reacher at WOT). Any idaes why LC-1 does not reflect map changes? I 've calibrated it, all were done according to manual.log1.csvlog2.csv There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Do you have a log while you are in closed loop? I would like to see your AF Sensor #1 like you have displayed in your log compared with your LC-1, in closed loop if you sensor is configured properly they both should be displaying almost identical values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Not sure if it makes a big difference but why is your throttle plate below 100% on WOT?? Any aftermarket intakes in the loop?? Have you checked all plumbing post MAF?? Hopefully no leaks. Is your LV A range stable all the time?? "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Do you have a log while you are in closed loop? yes, attcahed. It look like it shows pretty close values. Not sure if it makes a big difference but why is your throttle plate below 100% on WOT?? Any aftermarket intakes in the loop?? Have you checked all plumbing post MAF?? Hopefully no leaks. Is your LV A range stable all the time?? I always see throttle like this. 100% accelerator pedal, 99.8% throttle. no aftermarket, all stock in there. Should be no leaks. Did not run leak test though. ADD: LV A range is in 8%-10%, usually it stabilises after couple of days. Now, afetr 5 hours after last reflash: A: 8.9%, B: 0% C:1.3%, D: 1.5%closed_loop.csv There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 yes, attcahed. It look like it shows pretty close values. Not close enough, I believe when I logged mine, it was only hundredths off, yours is a half point different than what your o2 is reading in much of that log. I will take a log of my car tonight after work and show you the deviation between my lc-1 and the AFR #1. I would possibly try doing a free air calibration and then log again after and see if that makes a difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 ^ Thank you! It would be great to see your logs. BTW, how much time it usually takes LC-1 to do a fee to air calbration. when i've follwed manual, turned it first time, it blinked for 1-2 mins, then solid red . Then, according to a manual, free air calibration should be done by connecting black wire to a ground for a 3 sec. Did so, red light went off for like 2-3 sec, then ON again. meaning it is done. 2-3 sec.. does it sounds normal for a calibration? There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 ^ Thank you! It would be great to see your logs. BTW, how much time it usually takes LC-1 to do a fee to air calbration. when i've follwed manual, turned it first time, it blinked for 1-2 mins, then solid red . Then, according to a manual, free air calibration should be done by connecting black wire to a ground for a 3 sec. Did so, red light went off for like 2-3 sec, then ON again. meaning it is done. 2-3 sec.. does it sounds normal for a calibration? That sounds right about your procedure but not positive since I do my free air slightly different. I'm surprised your red light blinks so long when you initially give it power. To do my free air calibration I have my button wired up that came with the lc-1, what I do is pull the sensor out of the bung first, give car power but don't start, wait for the sensor to warm up, usually takes no more than 30 seconds for me for the red light to stop blinking and stay on. Then I hold the button down for 3 seconds, light turns off for a couple seconds and then back on. From there I turn car off, Reinstall sensor in bung and restart car and go for a drive. I will post a log up late tonight, naturally today is the one day I don't have my laptop with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 The joys of trying to use a LC-1 - good luck! Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 That sounds right about your procedure but not positive since I do my free air slightly different. I'm surprised your red light blinks so long when you initially give it power. No, it was so long for a first ever start, after I instaled it. Now, when i power it up it blinks about 20 sec, then get soild on. Rao, i know it is cheap device, but lot of people use it with success, so I hope to have the same result eventually. BTW, I'll look at the lm-1 software they supplie it with. it might be some type of correction i can apply, to match sotck O2 in closed loop, hoping to get correct results at WOT as well. There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Rao I think is referring to the complicated install and calibration process that you have to through with the LC-1. i am sure you will get it to work correctly..if it isn't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 No, it was so long for a first ever start, after I instaled it. Now, when i power it up it blinks about 20 sec, then get soild on. rao, i know it is cheap device, but lot of people use it with success, so I hope to have the same result eventually. BTW, I'll look at the lm-1 software they supplie it with. it might be some type of correction i can apply, to match sotck O2 in closed loop, hoping to get correct results at WOT as well. Sounds like it was setup right. One simple thing I came accross a couple people had to do to with the provided software was make sure the fuel type was set to pump gas. You'll get it working right, just takes a little time to get it dialed in that first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 ^ Thank you. yes, i've changed fuel to gas today. also, decreased rate from immidiate to 1/12 sec, as it will be closer to RR rate. Off topick, but I've noticed EGT on others log is 1300-1500F.. I've logged mine once, and seen around 900F.. under WOT. Is it something wrong with my sensor? Anyway, I'll log it again to see. There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airboy Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Did you take note of the LTFT in the first log, with the old fuel map? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I looked at your log again and noticed how consistent the afr is when you are in boost. when mine wasn't calibrated right my afr would oscillate greatly. Your lc-1 might be working correctly ill double check my logs tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Did you take note of the LTFT in the first log, with the old fuel map? LTFT? What is that? There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Long Term Fuel Trim Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Your lc-1 might be working correctly I am really hope so. I may try to play with fuel map more, just to see how it will affect LC-1 AFR. There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 oh. Long Term Fuel Trim - no, i do not have it logged. Will try to do now, on my way back to home. There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Use the Learn Viewer. Range A-D are your LTFT. Calibrate the sensor heater as well, then free air calibrate it. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 Here is my LV from last 30 min run (several WOT + casual driving). not match, but I've added some fuel, B-D cell looks much better. Also.. Looks like Lc-1 values has a correlation with my fuel map, but the values are higher.. Which , I think is normal, as ECU may add fuel. It is still a mustery for me, I'll need to learn much more. Soon I'll be adding meth to my setup (instead of a TMIC), hopefully will see some help from LC-1 data. There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 How well is your MAF scaled? Even with the stock intake, your MAF may be off a bit. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 I have drop-in K&N , MAF scaling from a protuner (OTA map). I remember people using stock map with a drop-in without a problem.. DO you think I may need to re-scale it? There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 I know when I had my Avo panel filter, I had it rescaled. Did you get to log the front O2 against the WB in steady cruise conditions to compare readings? "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Sorry it took me so long to back to you, been a crazy weekend. I compared my lc-1 with the front 02 and there was comparable deviation to what you are seeing. I could have swore I only saw hundreths of a difference between the two, but I guess I remembered that wrong. I hope the fact I'm running on e85 currently doesn't skew the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepich Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 ^^ Tommypenguin, Thank you! Thants sounds good.:-) Now it's time for me to tune water injection. Ridgeracer, I have some steady reading, but not much. Will work on this later.. There are no bad people, just differeent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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