Chris GTO TT Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Believe that is not an LSD given that the 2011 REX has only a VLCD and traction control (TCS). Correct it would be an open diff 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Problem: I need a good mounting solution for my DCCD switches and the LED indicator. I would like to go stealthy and mount them in the cubby. I’m thinking a blank panel in either plastic or CF that will allow me to retain the cubby door so I can close keep them from being seen. Can anyone point me in the right direction for something like this? I asked in the 3D printing thread but haven’t gontten any responses. All Help and suggestions are appreciated. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 What about getting a pillar from JCSpods? I emailed him and he made me a quad pillar. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 For the A-pillar? I want them in the cubby. Is JCSpods a user here? "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 For the A-pillar? I want them in the cubby. Is JCSpods a user here? Not that I am aware of... JCSpods, I would email them and ask about this video here: This might be what your looking for, without holes so you can cut your own. Or You could try messaging Block8Head, he makes some pretty awesome stuff. Or cubbypods.com (if they will make one without cutting the holes so you can cut your own.) Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Check-out freaksavior's GB on 3D printed pods, stock or custom, IIRC. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Problem: I need a good mounting solution for my DCCD switches and the LED indicator. I would like to go stealthy and mount them in the cubby. I’m thinking a blank panel in either plastic or CF that will allow me to retain the cubby door so I can close keep them from being seen. Can anyone point me in the right direction for something like this? I asked in the 3D printing thread but haven’t gontten any responses. All Help and suggestions are appreciated. Here is how I mounted mine, looked factory. Just cut two holes with a dremel and snapped them in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 I have 2007 JDM STI Forester gearbox. 2004 STI drive shafts (5x100) at rear coupled to Hyundai Elantra CV-joints. Highly recommended. Read my posts and ask if anything unclear. 4EAT prop shaft is ok, but must be OB to OB, or LGT to LGT I have LGT shaft in OB and it's doable but needs spacers and longer bolts. No point to do it. I used a legacy shaft in OB with no spacers and it worked fine. Never had any vibration issues but you are correct its better on like car to like car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 9, 2018 Moderators Share Posted February 9, 2018 I used a legacy shaft in OB with no spacers and it worked fine. Never had any vibration issues but you are correct its better on like car to like car Same. I also used a legacy driveshaft on my OBXT. No issues. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tema Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 I used a legacy shaft in OB with no spacers and it worked fine. Never had any vibration issues but you are correct its better on like car to like car Same. I also used a legacy driveshaft on my OBXT. No issues. I read comments on this and that was the reason I bought driveshaft which was most convenient to get (Legacy). Only once I was installing it I realized how badly it misaligns. Bearing carrier mounting height is totally different. I'm a marine engineer by profession and I have come across through the years number of incorrect installations that either; "work" or "worked before". I didn't want to take a risk and issue was sorted out by longer bolts and spacers. Now aligned like factory design it. Having an extreme misalignment is definitely not good. I know some LGT/OBXT which had to have original driveshaft replaced due to bearing failure. If you were lucky with this it doesn't matter but for anyone planning installation I don't recommend increasing chances of things breaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) Correct you want the legacy shaft for a legacy and the outback shaft for an outback. If you are an outback that has removed the suspension spacers you need a legacy shaft Most of us did not know the differences when we first performed the swap but it did not seem to have any problems and I ran mine like this over 100K. Back when we did it sourcing a used shaft from a 4eat was not as easy as it may be today. Remember many of US like hamerdown were the first people to do this At any rate we are just trying to say it will work just fine. Even though the alignment may be slightly off, like a lot of non subaru vehicles are, it works fine Edited February 11, 2018 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) Quick question, since I'm probably doing this swap this weekend: are the flywheel and pressure plate bolts the same between the 5 speed and 6 speed transmissions? I'm planning on buying new bolts (I also have a new clutch and flywheel to install) anyway, but want to make sure I have the right part numbers. I have 800210660 for the flywheel bolts and 800508310 for the pressure plate bolts (with washers). Also, as I understand it, the 2005/2006 flywheel bolts have T50 Torx Plus heads, whereas later years have regular hex heads, so it sounds like it's desirable to swap the Torx heads for regular heads to save grief later? Edited February 19, 2018 by Arcteryx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 T50 Torx Plus bolt were used exclusively with the Dual Mass Flywheel of the 05/06 Legacy GT and OBXT models. Those should be replaced. As far as the FW and CP bolts, IIRC there's a post early on with all the part numbers. Just no time to search for it right now - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 I've done a quick search through this thread, but so far all I've found is the initial post which has the major part numbers, but not for the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 A quick search of Opposed Forces. Cover Plate bolt and washer P/N = 800508310 (which crosses to the Legacy GT (5MT) and the Spec B (6MT) Flywheel bolts P/N = 800410070 (which also crosses to the both the Legacy GT (5MT) and the Spec B (6MT). Check with your parts department to confirm that these numbers are still active. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Those flywheel bolts look to be the Torx Plus ones: So I'm assuming I can replace them with 800508310: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Also, OpposedForces gives 800210660 as the FW bolt part # for '05-'07 Spec B and 800410070 for '08+...yet the older part number is hex and the newer one looks to be Torx. Now I'm confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tema Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 If I recall correctly: - Torx head on DMFW because no space around bolt head for hex-bolt - HEX-head bolt on SMFW because Torx-head is too high and would interfere with pressure plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Those flywheel bolts look to be the Torx Plus ones: So I'm assuming I can replace them with 800508310: Picture looks like T+ bolt head. The numbers were pulled from Opposed Forces and from SubarusParts.com, so as mentioned, check with your dealer parts department. You want hex-head bolts for your Flywheel. The Torx+ are designed for the DMFW on the 05/06 Leggys. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Swap is underway as we speak. Old transmission is out, new clutch and flywheel installed (with hex head bolts ), rear diff and axles are in. New transmission gets bolted up today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Swap is underway as we speak. Old transmission is out, new clutch and flywheel installed (with hex head bolts ), rear diff and axles are in. New transmission gets bolted up today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 P/n for the hex head bolts. Another member was looking for these. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 800210660 for the flywheel 800508310 for the pressure plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 ...and it's done! Only things I can suggest: -the axle clips gave us a bit of a problem; at first we thought they were simply too big, but then it turned out that the differential I bought already had clips in it -we were a little nervous about the length of the driveshaft (I used one from an automatic Legacy, as suggested). It's not long enough to fully seat in the tail of the transmission with the bearing carrier bolts in the right place, so we had to back it off about an inch or so. That still leaves a couple of inches of spline engaged, so I think it's fine. -a tranny jack made life so much easier! I don't know how people do this job on their own. We had 3 people, two manipulating the transmission from below and one spotting from above. Even then, it took a couple of hours (and a bit of paranoia) to get everything aligned and pulled together. The trick with the ratchet strap on the pitch mount/alternator bracket definitely helped, too -I replaced the stock reverse lockout mechanism with the Perrin one. Using a screw instead of a pin to engage the cable makes so much more sense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busy13b Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Question regarding the rear diff mount: Can the '08+ STi aluminum rear diff mount be used in place of the Spec B mount? From pictures, they look like they are very close in dimensions, but perhaps the outer ears are a bit wider in the STi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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