Arcteryx

Yes. I'd blown the BIU somehow. I tried to fix the old one, but it's tricky because not only is the BIU very difficult to get apart, it's also hard to unsolder and solder surface-mount components. It was a rather costly mistake (and a PITA, because the dealer has to setup the new BIU to match the transponder in your keys).

Need to steal the adapter piece from your old transmission, if it's the part I'm thinking of.

You bastard!

I've been thinking about buying those for awhile now (but in a different size, since I have the 4-pots). Where did you get them? And how much?

Heads are getting dropped off at the machine shop today, so I can ask them to measure the clearances before they start pulling things apart.

Pulled the engine today and got the heads off. Here's the burnt #3 exhaust valve: One of my mechanic friends says this looks like evidence of excessive blow-by. So is it time for new piston rings?

No, unfortunately they didn't. I'm starting to think my choice of shop for the last job may have been suboptimal. :| Friend of a friend, and all that...

Since it's on the opposite head, I wonder if they only did one side when they pulled them last time.

Diagnosis is in and it's not good: burnt (or broken) valve on #3 cylinder. Now I have to decide what to do next - I think I'm going to pull the engine, replace the valves, and send the heads out to be machined. Besides all the other stuff I should do while I have the engine out, what parts do I need to get for the valve job besides new valves and new valve seals?

Woo, 3rd time posting in this thread. Back in December, threw a single cylinder 3 misfire code. Cleared the code, never came back. Last week, threw a cyl #3 misfire code again. I moved the coil pack to cylinder #1. The code followed...but it still threw a #3 misfire code as well! I thought what the heck, replace the coil pack anyway and see what happens. While I was at it, I replaced the spark plug on #3. So now new coilpack and new plug on #3...and what happens? Misfires codes on #1, #3, *and* #4. WTF? I'm going to try cleaning the MAF next. After that, injectors. After that, time for leakdown and compression test. Keep in mind, it's now been a little over 2 years since my last adventure when I had my burnt valve on #4 and had the whole top end rebuilt. Symptoms: It's idling like crap (was stalling at nearly every stoplight). On the first half of the idle relearn procedure after clearing a code, it actually idles a bit better, but on the second half of the idle relearn it throws a code and starts idling poorly again. Also a lack of power on the highway and fuel consumption has gone to crap. Also found a crack in the plastic PCV crossover pipe that runs just in front of the intercooler. Doesn't really matter, since I had it capped off anyway when I installed the Grimmspeed AOS. I ended up breaking the pipe off at the crack and just putting the rubber cap over the new broken end instead of a little further downstream where it used to be. But that vacuum leak may have been at least partially responsible for some of the bad idle problems, at least.

Keep me posted about your progress with the 5x114 conversion!

Final (hopefully) update: pulled the diff and the side plate to put in the new o-ring. Well surprise surprise, there was no old o-ring in there! I'm assuming that means that someone disassembled the diff at some point, which is not very reassuring. Anyway, I haven't driven on it yet, so we'll see if that fixes the problem.

That's the plan - I ordered a new O-ring and new bolts. I guess I could have ordered a new plate as well, but we'll see. Worst case (short of a new diff, anyway), it's either gonna be JB Weld or Permatex.

No idea - I have no history on the diff itself.

Nope, definitely not the axle seal. There's no trace of oil above the bolts, and it's visibly seeping from around the bolts themselves.

One more update...the very new-looking R180 differential I picked up off of eBay seems to be leaking fluid (very slowly) from two of the bolts on one of the side plates. It's like one drip every few hours when the car is parked, but it seems to leak a lot more when the car is moving, because I find traces of gear oil sprayed all over my exhausts. I'm really hoping this is fixable just by replacing the o-ring on that side, because short of a cracked housing, I can't imagine what else might be causing that sort of leak.

...and it's done! Only things I can suggest: -the axle clips gave us a bit of a problem; at first we thought they were simply too big, but then it turned out that the differential I bought already had clips in it -we were a little nervous about the length of the driveshaft (I used one from an automatic Legacy, as suggested). It's not long enough to fully seat in the tail of the transmission with the bearing carrier bolts in the right place, so we had to back it off about an inch or so. That still leaves a couple of inches of spline engaged, so I think it's fine. -a tranny jack made life so much easier! I don't know how people do this job on their own. We had 3 people, two manipulating the transmission from below and one spotting from above. Even then, it took a couple of hours (and a bit of paranoia) to get everything aligned and pulled together. The trick with the ratchet strap on the pitch mount/alternator bracket definitely helped, too -I replaced the stock reverse lockout mechanism with the Perrin one. Using a screw instead of a pin to engage the cable makes so much more sense!

800210660 for the flywheel 800508310 for the pressure plate

Swap is underway as we speak. Old transmission is out, new clutch and flywheel installed (with hex head bolts ), rear diff and axles are in. New transmission gets bolted up today!

Swap is underway as we speak. Old transmission is out, new clutch and flywheel installed (with hex head bolts ), rear diff and axles are in. New transmission gets bolted up today!

Also, OpposedForces gives 800210660 as the FW bolt part # for '05-'07 Spec B and 800410070 for '08+...yet the older part number is hex and the newer one looks to be Torx. Now I'm confused.

Those flywheel bolts look to be the Torx Plus ones: So I'm assuming I can replace them with 800508310:

I've done a quick search through this thread, but so far all I've found is the initial post which has the major part numbers, but not for the bolts.

Quick question, since I'm probably doing this swap this weekend: are the flywheel and pressure plate bolts the same between the 5 speed and 6 speed transmissions? I'm planning on buying new bolts (I also have a new clutch and flywheel to install) anyway, but want to make sure I have the right part numbers. I have 800210660 for the flywheel bolts and 800508310 for the pressure plate bolts (with washers). Also, as I understand it, the 2005/2006 flywheel bolts have T50 Torx Plus heads, whereas later years have regular hex heads, so it sounds like it's desirable to swap the Torx heads for regular heads to save grief later?

Not technically part of this job!