Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

LCA Bushings


JonLGT

Recommended Posts

I have the AVO offset bushings now, good quality but if i could do it over i would have gone with AVO no offset. I think the offset ones changed the geometry in the steering rack causing something to rub and make a clanking during left U-turns. As for the bushing quality, it is much improved over stock, they even made it up the ALCAN no problem.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Of course they move the wheel forward. Personally I am against offset bushings. They put the arm in a such position so it puts pressure on the front bushing making it "crooked". I have not heard about any problems with that yet, but I imagine this can cause that bushing to wear prematurely.

 

That being said I am a fan of on-center bushings.

I'm the guy who had the first production bushes fitted (down in Australia :rolleyes:). I've got the offset bushes - 30,000km later, no adverse wear. Love 'em.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Subscribe- I noticed that my LCA bushings are shot after 95K miles. I'm considering the offset AVO's along with Bilstein struts and JDM Pink springs and Cobb front and rear sways. Does anyone have this setup and if so, what are your alignment specs?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had been running JDM 20mm RSB, stock FSB with AVO bushings and end links. Installed Bilsteins and Swifts, was okay, but not optimal. Then a couple weeks later, installed the WL RCK (to compensate for the Swifts induced bump steer) and the AVO OS LCA bushings because my stock ones were torn and shot. Aligned with 0 toe F/R and about -.5 F/-1.0 R Camber. Huge difference. Car is tighter, more tossable with straight-line stability dead-on and wind gust-induced swaying gone.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

II think the offset ones changed the geometry in the steering rack causing something to rub and make a clanking during left U-turns. quote]

 

Not!!! I have them and no issues at all, you must have something else wrong

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote=Underdog;2251499LCA isn't too bad to remove... it's the ball-joint that can be a pain to extract.

 

BTW, I have an additional set of GT control arms for sale. ;)

 

 

Yeah - we remember well the saga. :)

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm flattered that my frantic "help!!!" posts have been etched into your memory. :lol:

 

My recollection is that it was so dramatic that it was all I could do to stop myself from getting on a plane to go fix it...:lol:

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any additional noise or roughness?

 

From the RCK - None, other than the defective ball joint which currently clunks when turning left over bumps. WL is replacing it with their new upgraded kit so don't expect any more issues from the RCK.

 

Definitely vibration from the LCA bushings which will lead to increased noise on the right surfaces - they are after all, "hard" and not the soft, pliable, semi-closed stock bushings. But the direct-connect feel and turn-in, tracking and handling improvements far outweigh the limited and mostly unnoticeable vibration.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ Why? What does a dusty lamp have to do with anything? :lol:

 

LCA isn't too bad to remove... it's the ball-joint that can be a pain to extract.

 

BTW, I have an additional set of GT control arms for sale. ;)

 

Any tips or pointers for tackling the ball joint? I will be doing this Saturday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any tips or pointers for tackling the ball joint? I will be doing this Saturday.

 

 

Have a press available - will improve the chances of success immensely.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My tips is simple - air hammer.

 

Gets the ball joints removed in an instant.

 

Before you put them back - anti-seize them. Will come out by hand next time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My tips is simple - air hammer.

 

Gets the ball joints removed in an instant.

 

Before you put them back - anti-seize them. Will come out by hand next time!

 

That works too. And +1 on the anti-seize.

 

Having a machine press available will also get it done.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
Link to comment
Share on other sites

all i did was take a small like 2 lb sledge hammer and tap on the control arm right where the ball joint goes in. within like 3-4 hits the joint separated from the arm.

 

The press is needed to remove and install the bushings into the arm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use