bbjones121 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Okay, so about 500 miles ago, I replaced my crank pulley with a perrin, about 100 miles ago, I replaced my downpipe with a Cobb catted. I flashed my ECU to Cobbs stage 2. The other day we had a cold day and my windows were fogged up when I got in the car. I turned the defroster on, and it began defrosting. About 20 seconds later, my window started to frost up again, then another 20 seconds and it began defrosting again and so on. I popped my hood and it looks like the compressor clutch engages for about 20-30 seconds when the car starts. Then it stop for about 20-30 seconds, then turns on for 7-9 seconds, turns off for about 20-30, turns on for 7-9 secs. And so on. I have never noticed a problem defrosting my windows before. Is this normal for it to cycle this much? Could it be the belt tension when I replaced my crank pulley? Or could it be Cobbs stage 2 map causing problems? Please help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbjones121 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbjones121 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 Anyone before I go to the dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubiGT Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Okay, so about 500 miles ago, I replaced my crank pulley with a perrin, about 100 miles ago, I replaced my downpipe with a Cobb catted. I flashed my ECU to Cobbs stage 2. The other day we had a cold day and my windows were fogged up when I got in the car. I turned the defroster on, and it began defrosting. About 20 seconds later, my window started to frost up again, then another 20 seconds and it began defrosting again and so on. I popped my hood and it looks like the compressor clutch engages for about 20-30 seconds when the car starts. Then it stop for about 20-30 seconds, then turns on for 7-9 seconds, turns off for about 20-30, turns on for 7-9 secs. And so on. I have never noticed a problem defrosting my windows before. Is this normal for it to cycle this much? Could it be the belt tension when I replaced my crank pulley? Or could it be Cobbs stage 2 map causing problems? Please help. Mine has done this for the past 63K miles. Dealer changed out my original HVAC faceplate once, said it was a control issue. It still did it after that, too. I changed out the factory 6cd for a factory 6mp3, so I didn't have warraty on the HVAC faceplate any longer. Out of warranty now anyways. I'm going to be looking for a way to wire the compressor so it stays on 100%, not cycle per some faulty logic. You wouldn't happen to be an EE would you? Many Shuvs and Zuuls knew what it was to be roasted in the depths of the Slor that day, I can tell you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Have you seen like a red powder or anything around your compressor? I dont know that this has any meaning, but on mine there is a fine red powder that seems to be coming from the compressor clutch. My a/c seems to work mostly.. it gets warm when sitting still but I think its always done this. The main thing I've noticed with mine is it squeals like a bad bearing when starting the car. Anyone know if the compressors on these cars are unreliable or short lived? I'd go to the dealer just to get a word on it. I have been putting mine off however cos iirc a/c is not part of powertrain warranty right? Plus I cant replicate the noise on demand. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbjones121 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 Mine has done this for the past 63K miles. Dealer changed out my original HVAC faceplate once, said it was a control issue. It still did it after that, too. I changed out the factory 6cd for a factory 6mp3, so I didn't have warraty on the HVAC faceplate any longer. Out of warranty now anyways. I'm going to be looking for a way to wire the compressor so it stays on 100%, not cycle per some faulty logic. You wouldn't happen to be an EE would you? Yes actually, ME and EE. I will take it to the dealer for now and have them tell me how much I owe them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 The system is probably slightly under charged causing it to cycle too quickly. Also, the red stuff around your clutch is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Okay, so about 500 miles ago, I replaced my crank pulley with a perrin, about 100 miles ago, I replaced my downpipe with a Cobb catted. I flashed my ECU to Cobbs stage 2. The other day we had a cold day and my windows were fogged up when I got in the car. I turned the defroster on, and it began defrosting. About 20 seconds later, my window started to frost up again, then another 20 seconds and it began defrosting again and so on. I popped my hood and it looks like the compressor clutch engages for about 20-30 seconds when the car starts. Then it stop for about 20-30 seconds, then turns on for 7-9 seconds, turns off for about 20-30, turns on for 7-9 secs. And so on. I have never noticed a problem defrosting my windows before. Is this normal for it to cycle this much? Could it be the belt tension when I replaced my crank pulley? Or could it be Cobbs stage 2 map causing problems? Please help. When I had my old Buick it had a very similar symptom. The A/C would cycle on-and-off repeatedly at roughly the interval you described. It turned out I had low refrigerant and a simple recharge fixed it. Your dealer will have a diagnostic chart they will follow, but a quick test with a manifold pressure gauge will tell them if the system is low. Dammit GTTuner and your ninja-like responses! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbjones121 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 Awesome to hear. I will just take it to a local shop then and try not to give Subaru a chance to blame it on other things. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Dammit GTTuner and your ninja-like responses! You type slow:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Have you seen like a red powder or anything around your compressor? I dont know that this has any meaning, but on mine there is a fine red powder that seems to be coming from the compressor clutch. My a/c seems to work mostly.. it gets warm when sitting still but I think its always done this. The main thing I've noticed with mine is it squeals like a bad bearing when starting the car. Anyone know if the compressors on these cars are unreliable or short lived? I'd go to the dealer just to get a word on it. I have been putting mine off however cos iirc a/c is not part of powertrain warranty right? Plus I cant replicate the noise on demand. Red powder could be rust from the compressor clutch. It's like disk brakes in that if it sits for a while, you may have some rust build up that comes off when the compressor clutch engages. If you see two red rings on the compressor, one in front and one in back, those are the valve plates for the compressor. Denso does not require them to be e-coated or plated(cost savings) so they will rust since the OD of the valve plate is exposed to the atmosphere. It won't hurt anything and is normal. I did hear of some problems with the compressors in these cars a year or two back. At one point, they couldn't make them fast enough to replace all the defunct ones. These compressors are built in Japan I believe. The ones in the states did not suffer this problem. I can't go into detail why they failed, but I believe it was a design flaw that came about from trying to save costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 He just installed a crank pulley and no one recomended to check the belts and make sure they are properly adjusted? Geez...why try the simple stuff first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbjones121 Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 I thought the belts too, I loosened them, I tightened them, but still nothing. How are you supposed to tell the proper belt tension? I think that I had my belt too tight for a little while, could that have caused my refrigerant to go low? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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