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Brakes: How to buy brake upgrades?


Xenonk

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What about rotors and calipers?

 

you have to determine what conditions you are using your brakes.. it's pointless to run around with rotors that you will never use to its capacity (as you are carrying more weight than what you really need) and you dont want to mess with caliper sizing (as that can change the brake bias without needing a brake proportional valve)...

 

you really have to take some time to evaluate your needs.. once you figure out what your brake needs are, it will be easy to figure which calipers or rotors fit your needs, from performance to price to practical use.

Keefe
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On a GT, going from the GT rotors down to the WRX 4 pot rotors is a downgrade (the weight of the car is going to put a toll on the brakes).. the GTs are a tad thicker (which a few years back there was a comparison of which dimension was worth looking into and the thickness of the rotor had a larger impact in performance than a slightly larger rotor diameter under repeative track-speed braking.

 

Also, the pistons are smaller on the WRX 4-pistons compared to the GT 2-piston floating caliper. Now, you can do the upgrade to lighten the unsprung weight and also change the brake bias slightly to the rear.. but in my opinion, there's no sense in changing the brake balance if your rear end is already light under braking and there's no usable braking power if the rear end of the car is coming off the ground.. any tire that leaves the ground or has little weight starts to become useless in terms of providing grip.

Keefe
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On a GT, going from the GT rotors down to the WRX 4 pot rotors is a downgrade (the weight of the car is going to put a toll on the brakes).. the GTs are a tad thicker (which a few years back there was a comparison of which dimension was worth looking into and the thickness of the rotor had a larger impact in performance than a slightly larger rotor diameter under repeative track-speed braking.

 

Also, the pistons are smaller on the WRX 4-pistons compared to the GT 2-piston floating caliper. Now, you can do the upgrade to lighten the unsprung weight and also change the brake bias slightly to the rear.. but in my opinion, there's no sense in changing the brake balance if your rear end is already light under braking and there's no usable braking power if the rear end of the car is coming off the ground.. any tire that leaves the ground or has little weight starts to become useless in terms of providing grip.

ITs not a GT... it is a N/A 2.5l

 

I understand what you are saying about the GT rotors. But I thought that the N/A and the turbo legacy's have different brake sets.

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I know you said drilled rotors don't do much for the operation of the brake system...what about slotted? Do they not improve dissipation of heat?

 

slots were basically designed to prevent the brake pad from glazing..they basically cut away your brake pad surface of the over-harden surface from the extreme heat.. it was not designed for heat dissapation. Vanes of the rotors, using larger rotor surfaces and wider vanes, using 2-piece aluminum hat rotors, and using brake ducts is all about heat transfers and heat dissapation.. slots have nothing to do with heat transfers or heat dissapation.

Keefe
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  • 2 weeks later...

I just read the write up, very nice. Now that it's a year later I have a question about fluid. I'm getting ready for my 30K service and I figure it is a good time to upgrade the break fluid and brake lines. For a daily driver "grocery getter" that I drive spiritedly, what would be a good fluid? I've read about ATE super blue and Motul, but since I'm a noob to making mods I could use some help. Also suggestions on SS brake lines would be appreciated. You all have no idea how useful this site is, I think I'm the only subie GT in town and don't get me started on my "auto part stores" and stealer.................

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Edited by mcsquish
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I just read the write up, very nice. Now that it's a year later I have a question about fluid. I'm getting ready for my 30K service and I figure it is a good time to upgrade the break fluid and brake lines. For a daily driver "grocery getter" that I drive spiritedly, what would be a good fluid? I've read about ATE super blue and Motul, but since I'm a noob to making mods I could use some help. Also suggestions on SS brake lines would be appreciated. You all have no idea how useful this site is, I think I'm the only subie GT in town and don't get me started on my "auto part stores" and stealer.................

 

 

nothing wrong with ATE and definitely nothing wrong with using Motul RBF600.. the higher the wet boiling point, the better it is as it prevents the fluid from asborbing moisture.. with that in mind, your fluid can last a bit longer in the system than the typical brake fluid you buy from the auto store (unless they actually sell that kind of high end stuff).. higher performing brake fluid has a lesser chance of boiling over, which causes a mushy brake pedal feel.

 

Up to date, I have tried Castrol SRF and Prospeed GS610. The Castrol SRF is pure racing brake fluid that is on a planet of its own (and at $90/litre, it is). Is it worth it on a street car? Probably not, but it sure has lasted more than 70,000 miles on my brother's WRX as a street driven car. The Prospeed is a notch higher in overall performance than the Motul RBF600.. both the GS6100 and RBF600 are way more than adequate for street use.

 

Currently I run Techna-fit lines and got them from http://www.brakeswap.com.. the coating and jacket are fairly thick and all issues have been resolved (as I was one of the first people to test-fit a set on our cars to make sure all is well).. the other brand you can get are STi brake lines (which in my opinion you are strictly paying for the name) and the other is the Goodrich brake lines which comes in two forms of either coated or non-coated.. I havent figured out which one the GT uses, but I'd had my fair share of running a non-coated line and I frankly would like a coated line to prevent any abrasions from road debris.

 

Hope that helps.

Keefe
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Keefe, that helps soooo much! I had read about the Techna-fit issues, and had heard that they had and also that they had not been resolved. Since you have tried them, I'll believe your thoughts. "And thank you for your support." Yep, that's for thoes old enough to remember Bardals and James.

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Edited by mcsquish
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  • 1 month later...
What is the size difference between the GT and 2.5i brakes and rotors? How hard would it be to do a swap?

 

 

the front brakes are the only thing that would differ.. You need a 17" rim to clear the GT brakes.

 

 

To do the swap, you just need:

 

GT front calipers

GT front caliper brackets (usually included with the caliper from the dealer)

GT front rotors

GT front brake pads

Brake Fluid of your choice

 

the total cost shouldnt be more than $500 for all of it (since the rotors can be found at cost for about $75/each shipped). The calipers and brackets should cost around $90 to $100 each side. And the brake pads should be around $90 shipped.

Keefe
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^the rears on the 2.5i and the GT are the same size (and as I remembered it). But as for the vented vs non-vented, that part I dont remember (but that's simple to find out anyways). The rear calipers and brackets should be the same as the GT rears, so really the rear would need a new rotor and pads.. I have a feeling that the 2.5i rear rotors are vented (I cant imagine having a solid 20mm thick rotor in the rear.. If it was non-vented, it I can't imagine it being anything thicker than 10mm.
Keefe
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ah thank you unclemat.

 

I had a total brain fart, at my office I have my 2005 Legacy brochure that's just sitting here.

 

there's also a difference in the 2.5i and 2.5i limited.

 

the 2.5i is 10.8" front vented/10.6 rear solid

the 2.5i limited is 11.5 front vented/10.6 rear solid

the 2.5GTs (both non and limited) are 12.3 front vented/11.3 rear vented.

 

the only part that I don't know for sure is the rear drum hub for both cars.. if they are the same, then the only thing you need in the rear would be the caliper bracket. I believe both the GT and the 2.5i use the same brake pad (which also uses the same pads as the 2002 WRXs I think, but call up Eric at Brakeswap.com for that answer since I dont have my brake pad chart handy.

Keefe
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Just an update, I had the brake lines installed and had the system flushed and refilled with Motul. All I have to say is BIG difference in the pedal feel! At the end of the stroke, no mushy feel. I?m definitely glad I did this. Now for a rotor and caliper swap?????.

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Edited by mcsquish
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  • 3 weeks later...

anyone run the huge baer wrx brake kit?

14" rotors and 6 piston calipers

(i know over kill but someone was talking about brakes for looks so i was wondering)

 

http://wjhamilt.googlepages.com/baerbrakes.jpg

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