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Installed Spec Stage2 Clutch and Lfw Clutch will not Disengage


squiddmonster

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Good deal! I may have to catch up with you at some point and take a look at the car. Like Shainz, I too am a VW/Audi guy and I need something a little bigger than my GTI (no I don't want a Jetta or Passat...though the new CC is pretty nice). I want to get something different though and seems to be pretty cool. Has it been pretty reliable?
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Reliability has been great for me. 46k+ miles with no issues.

 

I change my oil slightly more often than rec'd by the manufacturer (4-5k) with good ol dino oil... 10w30 for our weather here in Birmingham.

 

There's some squeeks and rattles, but nothing significant... I had a seat heater die on me and an issue with the fan relay (both covered under warranty).

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Thanks for the info. As much as I like my VW I really am wanting to get into something a little bigger and nicer. Hey Shainz, having made this jump yourself what are your thoughts? I know, you hate me, but what are your thoughts on the LGT (lol)?

 

And Shainz, if you ever get down this way let me know and I will buy you a beer. Or, I make it up to Waterfest each year...I can meet you in your neck of the woods and I will buy you a beer! Either way works for me!

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Hey Jeremy, since there aren't many positive thoughts in this thread, I'd just like to say that I think I'm the highest hp/tq LGT to run a SPEC clutch (and formerly lwfw) and I've been very happy with the product thus far. Besides an initial installation error when I had my 5sp (misaligned pilot bearing) and some pedal adjustment with that setup, both the 5sp and 6sp versions have performed well. I would recommend them (though not many people I know do) over other brands.
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One of the things that I have been working to do over the three years that I have been on staff here is to be more proactive when it comes to offering support via forums, on the phones, and face to face at events. All too often manufactures have a faceless appearance that distances them from their customer base. Our Sales and Tech Team strives to be more accessible to our customers and as such we are helping people better understand the functionality and fundamentals of clutch operation.

We started building clutches nearly 20 years ago and as such we have a great deal of experience with providing products that are both durable and reliable. It is important to remember that there are a number of factors that affect clutch life and performance. These include proper stage selection, flatness of the mating surfaces (flywheel), proper installation, break-in, and driving style (as well as others).

When issues arise there is a tendency for customers to immediately assume that it is clutch related rather than actually looking at the problem and working to assess it logically. It is my belief that this tendency is greatly related to the fact that, for the most part, clutches and their function are misunderstood by most consumers. That being said, we are actively working to provide tech support and explanations to end users on forums such as this in hopes that by explaining the cause and effect relationship of clutch issues that people will better understand functionality. If any of your ever have questions about clutches, stock, our, or even those from other aftermarket manufactures please let me know and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks!

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Hey Jeremy, this is Eddie from Auburn. I am putting in my Stage 3+ setup, you sent me last year, this weekend. If you need or want anymore info on the LGT's vs VAG give me a shout. PM me your number and I will send you mine.
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Just make sure to take it easy for the first 500 miles. That means NO WOT runs and even after 500 miles you should still take it kinda easy until the clutch smoothes out off the line if you want it to last. I've had my SPEC Stg2 and LWFW in for over a year and 15K miles at Stg2+ power levels with no real issues. I love the way it feels/holds and wouldn't trade it for anything else. We'll see how it holds up when the new turbo goes on, but so far so good.
Let's kick this pig!
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As a matter of fact the cars done and om going to pick it up now. Rotora Slotted brakes were added to the back too. I had the fronts done in the summer and had hawk pads all around. I will keep you all updated

 

 

Good to hear Squid. My car went in today for the clutch install. The dealer got really backed up so they gave me a loaner and said my SPEC Stage 3+ w/LWFW will be installed Monday. I am crossing my fingers that everything goes well with it. The good news is that they gave me an 08 Imprezza. I am so inpressed at how refined this new generation is compared to my 05 WRX Wagon.

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Well well well it works and once its broken in its really gonna work. I can feel the pull and the way the car just seems to snap into gear is a great feeling. The guys at Auto Pride know there stuff and did a great install. I had them use the Extra S synthetic and it is like butter. Sometimes you run into problems in life but its all fixable. Thats my motto. Now who has suggestions on getting even faster throttle response?
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Ok, I dropped off my car at the Subaru Dealer on Sat to get my SPEC Stg 3+ Clutch and LWFW put in. The dealer was really busy and my mechanic couldn’t even start on it until Monday. So they give me a loaner and off I went. They said it would be done by Tuesday lunchtime. Well, I get a call this AM saying they couldn't get it to disengage. I thought great....I won't be getting my car back for another week. I call Jeremy on his cell phone and he is in Vegas at SEMA. It is 6:00 AM out there but he still answers...I tell him what is going on and he tells me to have my mechanic call him direct since the Subaru dealer is an hour away from me. My mechanic calls him and he does exactly what Jeremy tells him. They first measure everything to make sure we got the right parts. Once he determines we got all the right parts, he then proceeds to tell my mechanic to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. My mechanic has done 40+ clutch jobs on Turbo Subarus and has never had to bleed the clutch before during a clutch install. Jeremy explains to him why this needs to be done and makes sense to my mechanic and so he does it. He puts everything back together and voila……the clutch works. He did have to also adjust the pedal but everything is working fine now.

I will write up a complete review when it breaks in. Initial thought is the pedal is MUCH lighter than stock. The only bad on the new setup is that the pedal is so close to the floor now.

Jeremy if you are reading this, you need to put in the instructions in every kit to bleed the clutch system.

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Good to hear all the positive reviews. Eddie, I suppose that I take for granted that all dealers know to bleed the system when installing a new clutch kit. This is done to reset the TOB (thus insuring that the bearing is not over extended). In fact, I am pretty sure that the Subaru Installation Manual suggests this...but I will have to double check to refresh my memory. Either way, I am glad that all is well with the car and that you are enjoying the improvements. Let me know if you all need anything else. Thanks!!!
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Chatter is the result of the disc surface skipping across the contact surface on the plate or flywheel. This occurs as a result of using a higher friction coeffecient disc material and a higher clamp pressure-plate and will be most prevalent during the seating or break-in time of the assembly. As the disc materials seats chatter will generally disipate. If he had received the incorrect TOB it wouldn't have fit and thus this is essentially impossible. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
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Almost 28,000 miles on my 2+ still chatters a very little. I find it mostly happens in traffic when I'm trying to figure out what the car in front is doing when the light turns green.

 

I will take this clutch over a weak OEM unit any day.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Chatter can happen through the life of the clutch...in certain circumstances...in fact I can make a stock clutch chatter if I try. Just remember that, as I mentioned before, chatter is effectively a result of using a clutch with a higher friction coeffecient disc material and a higher clamp pressure-plate. Some stages will chatter worse than others. For instance a stage 3 or 4 will have a much higher potential for chatter than a 1,2, 2+, or 3+. This is due to the pucked design (and thus less surface area) with the stage 2 and 4 discs. I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
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