f1anatic Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Ridiculous. I was at my mechanic for an unrelated issue when I discovered that my rear pads are gone. This is the 2nd set of pads that i wear out, on the rear faster than the front. Stock suspension except the sway bar. The first pads set was OEM; the second was Cobb Stoptechs. Replacing with Hawk HPS. They lasted about 25,000 each. I am a hypermiller in terms of driving style so where I get my pads wear from I do not know. Sure, I live in chicago so I brake a lot. But why the rears ? Brake bias ? Car is not tail happy when braking, but rather I am quite happy with how it brakes. Also got new rubber and going to get an alignment tomorrow - right front about 20% worn out more than the fronts. I was going to wait on the tires maybe another 2-3 months but oh well, I would rather be safe, knowing myself. Worn out 26,000 Kumhos being replaced by Continental Conti Extreme Contacts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 The rear pads are way smaller than the fronts and start with 2mm less pad material. When I changed out my OEM pads at ~45k, the rears were down to about 2mm and the fronts 4mm. The rears were definitely going to wear out first. My 45k is in and around Boston. I guess we don't brake here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 My rears (Endless) wore much faster than front as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 weird. my rear OEM, Hawk HPS, Hawk HP+, and race pads have all worn considerably slower than the fronts. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 you don't drive aggressively enough -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 you don't drive aggressively enough actually, that's an excellent theory. All that gas savings... lucky to break even with the money spent on pads. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 OEM original set: 80% left on the rears, 50% left on the fronts at 63K miles. And I tow and do a ton of mountain driving - so don't know what to attribute that to, other than putting my 5MT to good use and engine braking. When were the brakes last serviced? Do you think you might have a caliper sticking issue, due to possible corrosion? That could possibly explain the accelerated wear rate. How are the rotors holding up? Any pulsing while braking?. I've found that as some pads start reaching the end of their wear/life, they really start to leave a lot of pad material on the rotor (due to the fact that they get hot fast and then can't dissipate the heat) which then feels like the rotors are warped everytime you brake. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronemus Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 The rears tend to stick unless the retainer clips are lubricated. I lost one rear pad at 30k miles, and it was one with no wear sensor so my first hint was metal-to-metal grinding. My dealer's lead mechanic is master certified and says this problem is common and is due to the factory lubing the clips. You must use a thin coat of high-temperature grease so it doesn't burn off or migrate to the friction surfaces. I use Moly-Slide, a grease with 60% moly; a 1 oz tube costs ~$7 and lasts forever since you only use a little bit. I put on Hawk HPS pads, and thre's not a lot of wear after 38k miles, and the brakes feel much better. Hawk attaches a silencer shim to each pad, and it makes for a much better pedal feel - firmer and easier to modulate, with much better initial bite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Where to buy Moly-Slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Where to buy Moly-Slide? Ditto! - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Is this the Moly-Slide you're referring to? http://www.neconos.com/shop/images/33_th.JPG I know you mentioned a tube. But I found the above Here - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 anyone have pics of where to lube it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Hmm... 60,000 miles and my rear pads have a lot of life to them still... Maybe it's because of the Brembos up front and the stocks out back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Hmm... 60,000 miles and my rear pads have a lot of life to them still... Maybe it's because of the Brembos up front and the stocks out back? How are the fronts (Brembos) wearing? If this causes a lot of front bias, that would explain the rear's life. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Front Brembos seem fine.... 20,000+ miles and haven't needed to replace them yet. I do a lot of engine braking maybe that's why? I also just coast to stops to prevent having to push the brakes too hard or slowly roll until the light turns green or start slowing down way before approaching a red light so I'm coasting at a good pace to just give it a bit of gas when it turns green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Front Brembos seem fine.... 20,000+ miles and haven't needed to replace them yet. I do a lot of engine braking maybe that's why? I also just coast to stops to prevent having to push the brakes too hard or slowly roll until the light turns green or start slowing down way before approaching a red light so I'm coasting at a good pace to just give it a bit of gas when it turns green. That's how I drive. No need to be racing on city streets. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronemus Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Is this the Moly-Slide you're referring to? http://www.neconos.com/shop/images/33_th.JPG I know you mentioned a tube. But I found the above Here That's the stuff. It comes in either a squeeze tube or a jar. It's pretty stiff, so the jar is easier to use. It's also sold by a number of vendors who service competitive shooters, and they generally have better prices than Neco but the difference is only a dollar or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrownBoy Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 I go through two sets of front pads for every one set of rear pads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 I go through two sets of front pads for every one set of rear pads... Which should be about right. At the end of the second front set, I usually replace the rears too. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1anatic Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 These Hawk HPS pads are really awesome. Except that they must first heat up a bit. The first "pedal" feel is like driving and braking with your brake rotors wet. Not grabbing very well. A second "pedal" and the braking is vigurous, firm and fronts tend to lock. To answer a question asked before: my rotors were actually in good enough shape that I just had them resurfaced for another ...maybe another year of service. Now, they were not glass smooth but not wobbly or excessive "channeling". The car was always stable under braking, braked really well before, no shaking, no other symptoms. It must be just the way I brake. I do have to say one thing. From day one, my Cobb rears were very dusty (much much more so than the fronts) so I must also hypothesize that the material is a bit softer too. Likely they were sticking more to the rotors, true - so increased wear was in order. But if the brake bias was to be according to factory specs, due to the front bias, the fronts should have been as worn out. Rather, as I have said, my rears are gone and I ended up saving the fronts for some other future need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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