ronemus

You did a hard reset on the electronics when it went dead. You may have to crank a while to build fuel pressure. It is possible that one or more of the fuel injectors is gummed up, but it would snort and jump if it ha a couple working. I'd recommend getting a can of starting fluid and have somebody spray it into the air intake while you crank it; if you have spark it will run briefly. Modern chargers won't function with a completely dead battery, but the better ones (and jump packs) have an override button so you can tell it that there is actually a battery there. If you have a jump pack, usually you can bring it up from 0 with that and the charger will take it from there.

Unless VERY heavily modified, your engine would resemble a large grenade at 10,000 rpm, much less 15,000!

Production usually precedes manual revisions -- they don't generally factor into purchasing decisions.

If an alignment is done properly, the wheel will point straight up. It requires that the front toe bet set to spec at the same tie at the same time as the wheel points up; this is done by adjusting the steering linkage. You could do it yourself if you carefully adjust the tie rods by exactly the same amount in opposite directions until the wheel is centered; however, you will have no way of knowing whether the toe is out of adjustment. The centering of the wheel can only be assessed by a road test - it can't be seen on the rack unless it's grossly out of adjustment. Some shops will call it good enough if it's fairly close so they won't have to put the car back on the rack for a mini-alignment (front toe only).

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I didn't realize the range of dates was so restricted - it did apply to my late-year production '17 2.5i.

The remaining range is calculated and cannot be totally relied on. There is a recall that updates the firmware to improve that feature. Has your car been done?

+1 for the DWS06+ - I've used them on my '17 and '02. Good performance in the snow and on pavement, quiet,and long-lived. I've gotten 40k+ on all 3 sets I've owned; not bad for a performance tire. I think the 245/45 is a good compromise for a DD; I've had 40 profile, but the ride was harsher than I like for street use. Note that with the 245s on a 5th gen a reduced offset is needed to clear the front struts; I use a 38 offset (19" Enkei Raijin wheels) on my '17.

I use Moog adjustable arms on my Gen 5 Outback (bought from Rock Auto); much less expensive, but not available for all models/years.

StopTech Sport+ - great bite, easy modulation, low-to-moderate fade, not particularly dusty.

I tried Z26 pads and they were better than OEM, but not by much. The StopTech Sport+ pads are hugely better.

Do you have EyeSight? If so, it probably had a hiccup - it's fairly commom and leads some folks to turn it off. I bought a trim level without EyeSight so I wouldn't have to put up with a demented nanny.

IIRC that vintage uses the signal from one of the ABS sensors - usually it just needs to be realigned, but sometimes must be replaced. It's possible to knock the tone ring off, but that isn't likely if the wheels were not removed for the service. Did they do a tire rotation?

Moog is much less expensive if it's available for your model - check Rock Auto for fitment. I have them on the rear of my '17 Outback (5th gen), which also fit the 6th gen Legacy. I have been quite happy with them; they have sufficient adjustment that I can run a non-standard alignment (0.00* toe and -0.5* camber at all 4 corners) on my standard-height '17 OB.

Could it be for the grille shutter?

It is likely that either your compressor or your pressure regulator is toast, or both. The AC uses a pressure regulator to keep the low side at ~30 psi. and the high pressure should climb as refrigerant is added. In your case the high and low sides are at equal pressures, so you have a major problem. Don't bother with recharging until you fix the problem.

The symptoms you are seeing could be from over- or under-charging, or a fan failure. You can watch the fans at idle - set the AC for max cold and the fan speed to high, and open the windows; if both fans are not running after several minutes that is at least part of the problem. Determining the state of charge requires knowing the high- and low-side pressures as well as the ambient temperature; there is a nomograph in the service manual that is used to interpret the readings, and there may be one under the hood as well.

The OEM pads on my '17 OB faded badly when doing 6 near-stop cycles from 60 mph. I replaced them with StopTech Sport+ pads and am much happier - the fade is greatly reduced, initial bite is better, and they're easier to modulate. The OEM pads may be Akebono, but they're undoubtedly not one of their better pads and may be a special formulation for Subaru. The primary criteria for OEM pads are low price, long life, and low noise - performance is well down the list.

The return spring is on the clutch fork, so when the system is bled the spring is always retracted (no pressure in the slave cylinder); thus you have to pull the pedal back because the spring exerts no pressure with the fork & slave already retracted.

I disconnected the DRL resistor (behind the bumper cover under the right headlight) on my '17 OB; turning on the running lights then gives me the C-lights for DRLs. I didn't bother to rewire to make them work regardless of the headlight switch position, but that could be done fairly easily - just run a switched 12V source to the relay(s).

I have had Stoptech Sport+ on the front and Sport on the rear (Sport+ not available) of my '17 Outback for several weeks and like them - no cold stop adrenaline like the HPS, easy modulation, and better bite and fade resistance than OEM. I am similar in my needs to your description. I should also note that my Outback has been modified to suit me: Continental 245/50-19 DWS06 tires on Enkei Raijin wheels, Bilstein B4 front struts and B6 rear shocks, Rallitek non-lowering springs in the back, Whiteline 24 mm front and 22 mm rear sway bars (both set on soft) with Whiteline rear links, Perrin steering dampener lockdown, and a non-standard alignment (o toe and -0.5 degrees camber at all 4 corners) that required Moog adjustable rear front and lower control arms to achieve. All of that gives me the performance I want (similar to the old Spec B Legacy wagons) at a modest price.

I have a takeoff '17 Outback (silver) grille that I replaced with a Black Legacy grille. I think it will work in the '15. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Try disconnecting the battery to reset the BIU - it sometimes gets "confused" and doesn't respond properly.

You may also have double the necessary engine oil if somebody drained the transmission and filled the engine oil without checking the dipstick.

The FSM has you removing the battery ground. I find that it's a lot easier to leave the battery alone and pull the cables to the parking brake. Either method ensures that the brake will not be applied during service.