Max Capacity Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) I had the flashing cruise light after replacing the front hub. here's what I did to fix it. I stopped by my trusted mechanic, I have been dealing with him since the mid 1980's. He put this on the car http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale/...scan-tool.html Edit, just found the link is dead, it was some computer the repair shops use that sits on the passenger seat while you drive. Found a hidden code in the ABS system, cleared it, set it up on data logging and told me to go drive the car. He told me what to watch for. I made 6 loops in cruise control on one of the back roads, took it back, all was fine. I left the CC on, drove home, used CC coming across the top of the mountain. All seems fine. He told me if I ever wanted to use the scanner over the weekend to stop by and pick it up. Now that's service. So may be the next time this happens. May be the fix is to pull the battery cable for 15 minutes if you don't have a scan tool. Edited June 5, 2013 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 I'm tempted to buy one of those hub assemblies and just carry it around in my car. I tend to do a lot of long cross-country roadtrips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aflisik Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I am new here, lack of posts noted. Anyways I have a 2010 Legacy that was curbbed this weeked and the wheel bearing needs to be replaced. In North Jersey and was quoted $550 to do the job. Does anyone know if the 4th and 5th gen wheel bearing replacements are pretty close in nature? Based on this tutorial, it seems straight forward, but I am not sure if I am going to run into any surprises once I get the assemblies off. Any shared knowledge wouldf be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Contact Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com they are on northern NJ. He may be able to help. It should be a be straight forward job, have you seen the new hub, that should give you a hint as to what your in for. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 2, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted July 2, 2012 I am new here, lack of posts noted. Anyways I have a 2010 Legacy that was curbbed this weeked and the wheel bearing needs to be replaced. In North Jersey and was quoted $550 to do the job. Does anyone know if the 4th and 5th gen wheel bearing replacements are pretty close in nature? Based on this tutorial, it seems straight forward, but I am not sure if I am going to run into any surprises once I get the assemblies off. Any shared knowledge wouldf be greatly appreciated. easy as hell, as long as you know how to take apart the brakes, have a slide hammer, mapp gas, 1/2" breaker bar, 3 foot 1" diameter steel pipe for leverage. I did mine in 46 hours, after purchasing the slide hammer on hour 20, mapp gas on hour 25, and breaker bar and steel pipe on hour 42. "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aflisik Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Please tell me that your decimal key isn't working on your keyboard and that you meant, 4.6 hours, 2.0 hours, 2.5 hours and 4.2 hours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Rear wheel bearing walkthough here. Price was $110.00 plus tax at my local dealer. About 20mins per side using a lift and air tool for the axle nut. Took longer to do the write-up than it did to do the actual thing. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) FWIW, I just had a PITA time with a Moog front hub assemble, ended up buying a oem one and all is fine now. BTW I have replaced the left rear a month ago with a Moog and have no issues with it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/blinking-cc-no-cel-188044.html Edited May 17, 2013 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I am new here, lack of posts noted. Anyways I have a 2010 Legacy that was curbbed this weeked and the wheel bearing needs to be replaced. In North Jersey and was quoted $550 to do the job. If you were able to drive the car it would almost be worth driving up to near where I live to have it done. I paid less than that to have both my 4th gen rears done. I figured it was about $100 each in labor. Maybe the front on a 5th gen is a lot more complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Its a hub assembly and if they are using an oem subaru part, I could see that being the price. You could probably find one thats aftermarket for cheaper. With your car only being a couple years old, I do not see you having any serious problems with rusted parts. Torquing the axle nut is the most critical part of the job. Over torquing will cause the bearing to prematurely wear. After you get the hub out, clean the area free of any debris and apply a small film of anti-seize to the inside of the knuckle. This will help if you have to take it back out in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aflisik Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Thank you all for the input. What is the consenus on aftermarket hubs vs. OEM? There is about a $70 disparity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 If its only $70, go with the oem. There is no guarantee it will last longer than an aftermarket part, but your odds are better. Many aftermarket parts use inferior metals and components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywoodjess Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 My biggest advice on this topic: GO OEM! I did not, and now I am paying for it. Something happened with the non OEM, and it broke my speed sensor. I will be the proud new owner of that, new bolts that got sheared, and an OEM hub assembly... costing me more than that little extra $70 that I should have just paid out in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Did my right-front today. Not terribly difficult. This write-up was considerably more useful than the service manual, thanks OP. I did have a bitch of a time removing the axle nut, it just laughed at my impact gun and all other attempts. The solution was an idea from the first page of this thread: remove the center cap, put the wheel back on, drop and block the car, stand-jump on the breaker bar to loosen the nut. If I had done that from the beginning I would have saved more than an hour.... I suspect that the axle nut was seriously over-torqued by the mechanics used by my body shop, after an accident I had last winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Did my right-front today. Not terribly difficult. This write-up was considerably more useful than the service manual, thanks OP. I did have a bitch of a time removing the axle nut, it just laughed at my impact gun and all other attempts. The solution was an idea from the first page of this thread: remove the center cap, put the wheel back on, drop and block the car, stand-jump on the breaker bar to loosen the nut. If I had done that from the beginning I would have saved more than an hour.... I suspect that the axle nut was seriously over-torqued by the mechanics used by my body shop, after an accident I had last winter. And that my friend, is the reason you are replacing that bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 And that my friend, is the reason you are replacing that bearing. Yep, that was my thought too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 I got quoted $550+tax for this from Subaru of Plano. Although it was the rear but still. I went to a shop and paid $325, but next time im pulling a DIY! Great right up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Mine was making a bearing noise when I was driving last night, but its gone now. Im hoping its not the diff. or something because the noise did not increase when i swayed in one direction or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) So I have a front wheel bearing going bad. Called SOA and they gave me a record locator number and said they'd probably help me on "good will". Pushing a little harder, "WILL they help me ?" the guy said they would probably cover it partially. But I have to make an app't with dealer to confirm the diagnosis and get a quote. Over the phone, dealer said about $450; I said "well, dealer invoice on hub is $150 or so, how much labor can it be ?" And they said 3 hours; seems pretty crazy, given how easy the job sounds in the writeups here. So I'm thinking I get the part from one of our favorite discount OEM parts places for $130 or so, do it myself, and I probably spend a lot less that what I'll end up paying the dealer - say, if SOA picks up 50% of the quoted $450 cost. Plus I avoid the aggravation of dealing with the dealer twice - once for the diagnosis and quote, once for the repair - and dealing with the SOA folks as well. Make sense ? Edited July 31, 2012 by RustyShackleford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Up here in upstate NY I had both rears done at the local dealer for $473.60 plus tax. That's less than $100 each for labor. To me it was worth it. I would guess that the fronts are more complicated and your dealer's labor rate might be higher. My understanding is that if it comes apart easily it's a pretty straightforward job. Add troubles and it becomes worth it to have the dealer hassle with it. Can you take it in for diagnosis and get it done on the same day? That's how I did mine. So I have a front wheel bearing going bad. Called SOA and they gave me a record locator number and said they'd probably help me on "good will". Pushing a little harder, "WILL they help me ?" the guy said they would probably cover it partially. But I have to make an app't with dealer to confirm the diagnosis and get a quote. Over the phone, dealer said about $450; I said "well, dealer invoice on hub is $150 or so, how much labor can it be ?" And they said 3 hours; seems pretty crazy, given how easy the job sounds in the writeups here. So I'm thinking I get the part from one of our favorite discount OEM parts places for $130 or so, do it myself, and I probably spend a lot less that what I'll end up paying the dealer - say, if SOA picks up 50% of the quoted $450 cost. Plus I avoid the aggravation of dealing with the dealer twice - once for the diagnosis and quote, once for the repair - and dealing with the SOA folks as well. Make sense ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Can you take it in for diagnosis and get it done on the same day? That's how I did mine. Maybe the phone guy misunderstood and thought I meant both fronts. Would need the diagnosis before SOA would weigh-in on how much help they might give. Just ordered the part ($130+$3 plus shipping) so it's moot now. Pray for me that no seized axle spline or un-loosenable nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera832 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 So , all mighty board - Im about to replace the brake rotors all the way around ( all are out of spec and Im having some brake pulsing ) and struts all the way around ( right front in leaking ) - with 125k miles and a roaring noise would it be time to replace the hubs while I have it all torn down ? Ive searched the service records and as far as I cna tell they have not been replaced - Im thining of doing the hub replacment just as a safety item and since I will be there anyway - what do ya think ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 (edited) So , all mighty board - Im about to replace the brake rotors all the way around ( all are out of spec and Im having some brake pulsing ) and struts all the way around ( right front in leaking ) - with 125k miles and a roaring noise would it be time to replace the hubs while I have it all torn down ? Ive searched the service records and as far as I cna tell they have not been replaced - Im thining of doing the hub replacment just as a safety item and since I will be there anyway - what do ya think ? If you're pretty sure the "roaring" is the bearings, then I'd totally go ahead and do it. FWIW, my mechanic diagnosed it by lifting the car body (i.e. with the wheels dangling), using some kind of pole thing to depress the gas somewhat, and then using a screwdriver as a stethoscope up against the back of the hub. Not quite sure how a shade-tree mechanic would manage this, maybe with 4 jackstands, or 2 and a platform jack - being careful as hell not to end up as a Darwin Award finalist. It sounds like it's pretty easy, from the descriptions here - although I think people here tend to understate the amount of time it takes to do something. Sounds like there are three potential sticking spots: getting the axle nut loose if you don't have an impact wrench, the half-axle possibly seized where it plugs into the hub, and the bolts that hold the hub ass'y to the suspension. I'm optimistic about the half-axle, since my mechanic rebuilt the CV on the problem side within the last year. I think you can slightly loosen the axle nut while the thing is still on the ground - using a massive cheater bar - but be warned that this can damage the bearings :-) I don't see it as a safety thing though. I think bearings tend to get extremely noisy before they fail. Edited August 2, 2012 by RustyShackleford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 So I have a front wheel bearing going bad. Called SOA and they gave me a record locator number and said they'd probably help me on "good will". Pushing a little harder, "WILL they help me ?" the guy said they would probably cover it partially. But I have to make an app't with dealer to confirm the diagnosis and get a quote. Over the phone, dealer said about $450; I said "well, dealer invoice on hub is $150 or so, how much labor can it be ?" And they said 3 hours; seems pretty crazy, given how easy the job sounds in the writeups here. So I'm thinking I get the part from one of our favorite discount OEM parts places for $130 or so, do it myself, and I probably spend a lot less that what I'll end up paying the dealer - say, if SOA picks up 50% of the quoted $450 cost. Plus I avoid the aggravation of dealing with the dealer twice - once for the diagnosis and quote, once for the repair - and dealing with the SOA folks as well. Make sense ? I guess you missed where I did the right front in 35 minutes the final time. I got home from work at about 4:15pm, changed clothes, got the tools out, car jacked up, pulled the Moog hub out, put the bad OEM hub in, went for a test drive. The old hub fixed the blinking cruise light and surgging when it would go into cruise. Called the dealer, they had a front hub, changed clothes, had dinner, drove down, 12 miles to the dealer, had to wait because he gave me the wrong hub, took the Moog hub back to Advance Auto parts and got my money back, drove back home, changed clothes, got the tools out jacked the car, R&R the hub, put tools away, changed clothes, and was done and ready for the test drive by 8:30pm. The last swap out took 35 minutes from changing clothes to changing clothes. So actural hands on labor, was may be 25 minutes because I had trouble getting the caliper bolts back in, it was getting dark and I'm 57y/o. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I guess you missed where I did the right front in 35 minutes the final time. No, I saw that - and similar posts - that's why I decided to do it myself and save dealing with SOA and my local stealership. But I guess you were all warmed up by then - like an Olympian. I'm cautiously optimistic that the axle will not be seized, since my mechanic rebuilt the half-axle earlier this year. I guess I'll find out tomorrow - assuming the 32mm socket from eBay's 'toolman525' (a great find BTW, assuming it works out, he has the 32mm socket in Craftsman, free shipping and should be here in two days, for $7.95). Maybe I'll realize this doesn't make sense very soon, but I wonder if removing the hub would be an easier way for swapping out the half-axle; no needing to mess with pulling the ball-joint (or whatever) apart, which seems to give a lot of people grief. I guess you have to remove the caliper and disc too, but that's mighty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now