2006Specb122 Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 FOUR questions: 1. What brake fluid are you using in your LGT? 2. What rotors are you using? 3. What brake lines are you using? 4. Brake Pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one69chev Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 dot 3 stock stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Valvoline synthetic DBA5000 F, DBA4000 R (Brembo calipers) goodridge HPS street, HP+ track ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 BG DOT 4 Brake Fluid Ultra-Dry Flushing Formula Brembo BBK Goodridge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share Posted January 17, 2008 1. STOCK 2. STOCK 3. STOCK Hoping to get DBA400s with the lovely kangaroo pad venting system. I will most likely order slotted and cross drilled. Deciding between Goodridge and Techna-Fit lines. Stoptech seem too pricey. Can't beat the price of the Techna-Fit. Not sure which Brake Fluid to go with. OH, and I'm going with Hawk HPS pads..... just trying to get an idea of what others are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsdzine Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 on saturday hopefully we can get this done: 1. ate super blue 2. stock 3. goodridge 4. hawk hps and that should cover my spirited driving needs. brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fonts Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 My setup should get installed today. 1. Motul 2. DBA 4000 FR and RR 3. Goodridge 4. Hawk HPS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 on saturday hopefully we can get this done: 1. ate super blue 2. stock 3. goodridge 4. hawk hps and that should cover my spirited driving needs. +1 running same setup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Moved to Suspension/Brakes and 1. Prospeed GS610 2. Stoptech 2-piece 3. Stoptech 4. COBB Street Pads, Carbotech XP10s and XP8s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share Posted January 17, 2008 Where do you buy your ATE Super Blue I want something decent but that I can buy almost anywhere.....but brake fluid is hard to find! Because nobody ever changes it except us... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradiso Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Only my opinion, take it FWIW. Don't obsess over the ATE, go to autozone and get the Valvoline synthetic. Its perfectly good for street driving, no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share Posted January 17, 2008 OK... I was at autozone yesterday and didn't even see that .... I will check again...its just a few blocks away... I saw AUTOZONE and some other cheapy brand.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share Posted January 17, 2008 The main reason why the ATE interested me was the two different colors you could get....so you know it was flushed and changed completely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 The main reason why the ATE interested me was the two different colors you could get....so you know it was flushed and changed completely... Once you're familiar with bleeding/flushing the system, you'll be able to see the difference between new and old fluids regardless of color. When I bleed after a track day, the fluid in the front calipers is a little discolored, but quickly flows clear after a few pumps. The Valvoline synthetic is clear when new and easily distinguishable from the darker OEM. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 OK so its not like the fluid recycles so you don't really need to flush it ALL the time ...only initially for new fluid and then bleed occasionaly...sound right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 A regularly driven street car will only need a flush per the service interval of 30K I believe. I bleed my brakes after every track day and flush them at the end of the season. This is why I choose to use the less expensive Valvoline synthetic. It never sits in my lines for very long and its not a good idea to hold onto bottles of fluid once the seal is broken. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsdzine Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 i got my ATE fluid at my subaru dealer. if your subaru dealer does performance things (like spt & cobb stuff) they will most likely have alot of the fluids we use on our cars. 1L of ATE super blue $15 - not the cheapest, but always in stock. plus i'm new to brake bleeding, so i'm gonna need the color distinction for a few bleeds. brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Instead of basing fluid changes on mileage, it is a little better to do it based on time, or conditions... Anytime you do track days/auto-x, you heat of the fluid and might have boiled it a little. Due to that, it is good to at least bleed the system and top it off. If you experience fade on the street (for you crazy types) a lot of time it is green fade (pad) but it could also be boiling of the fluid. Just in case, bleed your brakes to get out the air, and top the system off to keep it full. Lastly, over time moisture seeps into the braking system and lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. On most fluids, esecially if you will be taking the car to the track, you should change it about once a year. The mileage has little effect, just the time it has been in the lines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 Instead of basing fluid changes on mileage, it is a little better to do it based on time, or conditions... Anytime you do track days/auto-x, you heat of the fluid and might have boiled it a little. Due to that, it is good to at least bleed the system and top it off. If you experience fade on the street (for you crazy types) a lot of time it is green fade (pad) but it could also be boiling of the fluid. Just in case, bleed your brakes to get out the air, and top the system off to keep it full. Lastly, over time moisture seeps into the braking system and lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. On most fluids, esecially if you will be taking the car to the track, you should change it about once a year. The mileage has little effect, just the time it has been in the lines... All very great points! Someone hit me with a stick..... The brake fluid was the ONLY thing I did NOT do in my 30k service. I did everything else myself but have not touched the brakes. The fluid never changes levels and always looks clean from the top. I will definately do this very soon. Just not sure if I want to do braided lines now....or when I get new rotors and pads down the road. Unless I am on a back road twisty I feel like I never even use my brakes. They are very lightly used. I'm usually downshifting and using the engine speed as a brake. I rarely have to smash on the brakes. Maybe that will pro long my fluid, pad, and rotor life? I don't think I have ever experienced brake fade.... http://www.torquecars.com/articles/brake-fade.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Instead of basing fluid changes on mileage, it is a little better to do it based on time, or conditions... ... Or just buy a fluid tester Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 The only difference you'll see between ATE/Motul and Valvoline is a lighter wallet. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Brake fluid by nature absorbs water, water reduces the brake fluids effectiveness and can cause corrosion to the braking components. For these reasons brake fluid should be flushed somewhat regularly. Humid climates need it more often than dry climates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 The only difference you'll see between ATE/Motul and Valvoline is a lighter wallet. Disagree. But it also depends on your intended use. Valvoline has lower dry and wet boiling points. The important characteristic is the wet BP. For a street car, this equates to more frequent flushes. For track cars, the dry BP is a more important number to look at because track cars tend to flush fluid more frequently anyways and therefore wet BP is not as important. Valvoline: 513Dry / 333 Wet ATE: 536/392 GS610: 626/417 That's why we recommend GS610. Good track numbers and also high wet numbers for those who dont want to flush as much for street. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Was talking in reference to a street driven vehicle. Your never gonna heat your brakes up enough getting to work for the $25/bottle magic. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Was talking in reference to a street driven vehicle. Your never gonna heat your brakes up enough getting to work for the $25/bottle magic. In general true, however, with the lower wet BP, if one were to extend service intervals, there is a possibility of fade or soft pedal. With that said, there are prolly people out there with 10+ year old cars who still have factory fluid Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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