New logs: how crappy is this :spin:

[unstablementaly]

You may have fouled a plug right as that header popped especially if they were the originals. I still find it strange that the MAF is reading that high. I'd like to see the MAF voltage on that. It looks like you have been pushing your injectors pretty hard for a while now too and some of these injectors have been known to get flakey. Just trying to throw out posiblilties. I'm sure your tuner will have an answer for you pretty quick once he gets plugged in.

thanks for the input. yes they are the originals but i only have 26k on the car. i've never logged maf v's because it's just one more parameter for everyone to say not to log! gonna go thru the threads and see what the general consensus is on plugs to use.

[Legacy05]

there is something wrong for sure, the vanilla TDC stage 2 map I ran on my car, i was pulling timing but nothing in the negatives ... and it took some time but Mike did get back to me and cleaned things up for me and things look rock solid now. I for sure wouldn't run that map, if anything take your short ram off and put your stock air box back on and re-log to see if that helps. Pulling timing like that to me is only going to cause issues to a point where you can do something to your motor.

[TSiWRX]

What's everyone think about pulling the intake off, re-installing the stock intake box, and reflashing to OTS Cobb Stage II?

[qikslvr]

Here is a link to a plug discussion with stock #'s :

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62390&highlight=spark+plug

I had to change mine at 30K because of misfires and rough idle flags.

 

Logging the MAF Voltage will allow us to see if the MAF table has been skewed for your intake as the actual sensor reading doesn't usually lie. I just wonder if the intake and inlet are messing with the reading or if the MAF voltage is hitting 5 volts and causing an issue. Just a thought.

[boostsr20]

What's everyone think about pulling the intake off, re-installing the stock intake box, and reflashing to OTS Cobb Stage II?

 

It think thats the best answer totrying to figure this problem out. Personally I would do this before going to the tuner. Nothing worse than wasting your time and money at the tuner when you have a mechanical problem.

[unstablementaly]

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[2005garnetGT]

first let me say, I HATE ALUMINUM HEADS!!!!!!!!!

 

 

why?

[unstablementaly]

tough to get a feel for snugness. and then it feels like it's strippen. especially the set up in our cars. extensions and swivels, you lose the feel you need. maybe it's just me, but meh. cast iron heads FTMFW!! at least for plugs anyways:p

[unstablementaly]

4 new logs for your viewing pleasure. this is new plugs and cleaned MAF. maybe if the opportunity present itself i'll be able to log one more time with cleaned filter, cleane MAF, dry gas and injector cleaner run thru engine. all this before tune. sounds kinda hard since i really only drive on the weekends!

Copy of log_20080107_100151.pdf

Copy of log_20080107_100446.pdf

Copy of log_20080107_100738.pdf

Copy of log_20080107_100852.pdf

[boostsr20]

Looks better than it was but the timing still seems a little messy at lower RPM's. Looks like the tune is trying to get better spool out of timing rather than AVCS tuning.

[qikslvr]

Looks better once boost kick in, but that bottom end is still a little off. It has to be running better that it has been. Those MAF numbers look a little closer to normal as does the Voltage.

[unstablementaly]

it feels good. but, something is still amiss. i'm not a tuner and don't fully understand. but the pulled timing just really miffs me. can't understand why thats happening. it doesn't show up in my older logs.

[Deer Killer]

Probably didn't even tune the cells you're having issues with. Tuners put some funky data in there sometimes, from what I've seen. Probably has to do with how the cobb interpolation works. Don't know, never used it.

[boostsr20]

Comparing my Timing map to your log and pulled timing values. Where you see -3.5 degrees pulled, the stock map is asking for 18 degrees of timing. My map is setup for 16 degrees at that point. Not sure if that initial 2 degrees is enough to keep the knock away but its a start. Once you get to -3 degrees at 2200 RPMs my map is asking for about .5 more degrees of timing that the stock map. All these numbers quoted are base timing figures. My knock correction is a positive number and is giving all the timing I'm asking it to apply. I don't know what would be causing your issues down low like that.

[qikslvr]

It seems like they didn't adjust anyting below 3K RPMs as most of your pre-boost numbers are a little screwy. Once boost hits; it looks pretty good now that you did the plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor. I'll bet if you sent those new logs to Mike at TDC; he could get it dialed in. I usually takes two rounds of adjustments for him to get my maps right, but once he does they run great. He probably just needs to see them and make a few minor changes. It owuld be nice to have one of his maps dialed in as a base to start from when you go to the tuner. The cold weather might be messing with the tune too. My last set of TDC maps were adjusted when the temps were around 40F.

[unstablementaly]

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[unstablementaly]

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1610341#post1610341

 

new logs. already posted them in one thread didn't really feel like doin it all over again. notice some changes with the new map. little smoother. lower boost. timing is a little more stable. more registered air. no markedly noticeable increase or decrease in power. car itself feels a litle more stable.

[boostsr20]

Yeah, a basic stage 2 car isn't going to see 105% injector duty cycles. More like 90 tops. Must be the MAF scaling. Overall it looks better. Your car really holds boost well in the upper RPM's which is where you want it the most. Must be a pretty healthy stage 2 car.

[unstablementaly]

yeah, i think it can make more and hold it as long. or at least nearly. but i would also like to see somethin more down low. wondering how that can be accomplished.

[boostsr20]

AVCS tuning helps.

[qikslvr]

Most of the logs look a lot better than before. One more round of adjusting and Mike should be able to dial it in. I've also noticed that I don't hit as high of boost after the header was installed and the map for it was loaded; however, we are moving more air. The timing and KC looks better too. That IDC and MAF are still pretty crazy for Stage 2. My IDC might hit 96% and MAF maybe 250ish @6500 RPMs but nothing like yours.

I acutally lost .3 seconds on my 1/8th mile time after I installed my TDC Stg2+AEM+Header+TMIC maps and hardware. My time slips showed that my 60' times were almost exactly .3 sec off; so it was clear I was loosing bottom end power. I sent the logs from my runs to Mike, told him what was going on and he made some more adjustment and it seems to run pretty tight and really pulls on the top end now. I'm just waiting for the track to open back up so I can make a few runs and see how it does.

It may be hard to get ahold of TDC at times, but if you stay on them; they will make sure Mike finds your message, adjusts your map and sends it back. I have at least a half dozen maps from TDC and they are all rock solid. It just took a lot of logging and PM's to 'TDC Joe' to get them that way.

I've had a hard time choosing a tuner too. I hate the thought of shelling out $300-$500 to end up with the same tune I can get from TDC for a lot less or worse yet have someone I personally don't know anything about blow my motor while learning what doesn't work or finding the limits. The hardest part is that any time you mention a tuner; someone is going to badmouth them so you don't want to trust anyone. Good Luck!

[unstablementaly]

....

[mickeyd2005]

Didn't mean to scare you. I didn't read all of this thread so I don't know all the details that have been discussed.

 

However, the last logs that you posted had the IAM drop so low that the boost control was turned off. If IAM drops that low, you have to stop and ask yourself what's going on. I don't think it's the tune. Basic stage 2 tunes aren't usually that far off.

 

In one of your logs, the car started to accelerate but the stock AFR sensor went from no-fuel to stoichiometric in 1 second. That's way too long.

 

So, I don't know what's wrong and it's difficult to diagnose something like this over the internet.

 

I would suggest logging some fueling parameters in closed loop. See how your AFRs and AFR corrections are behaving due to small throttle changes. Are they working correctly?

 

Does load (g/rev) line up with MAP (psi)? In closed loop, it will be a straight line.

Does IPW (ms) match up with load (g/rev)? In closed loop, it will be a straight line.

Have you logged roughness in all the cylinders?

Do your AFR corrections look reasonable? What happens when you hit the throttle slightly?

 

etc...

[mickeyd2005]

Turn on your logger and check AFR Learning A, B, C, and D and also check IAM.

 

Let the car warm up. After it has warmed up, try logging these parameters:

 

Time

A/F Correction #1 (%)

A/F Learning #1 (%)

A/F Sensor #1 (AFR)

CL/OL Fueling* (status)

Engine Load (Direct)* (g/rev)

Engine Speed (rpm)

Fuel Injector #1 Pulse Width (Direct)* (ms)

Manifold Relative Pressure (psi)

Mass Airflow (g/s)

Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (V)

Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle (%)

Throttle Opening Angle (%)

 

Drive normally like a grandma and keep it under 4000 rpm.

 

Maybe we'll see something; maybe we won't.

 

[unstablementaly]

were or should i say HOW are you seeing IAM drop? i didn't log it.