AKLGT Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 yep, i think that's the same one I got. working great so far (but it's a bit trashed from all the rocks. ) Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklynWRX Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Will this transmission cooler effect my warrantee? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 Shouldn't. If anything your dealer should commend you for it because it is better for your transmission. Some may frown because they associate tranny cooler with "harsh driving conditions", IE racing or towing. There's a difference between voiding your warranty and denying a warranty claim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth1784 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 ok soooo which transmission cooler is best? the hayden or the tru-cool? i see the tru is bigger, but is that a good thing? lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 Either one will get the job done. Personally I'm getting the TruCool 4454 due to the bypass feature. It basically routes the transmission fluid through it based on it's temperature. If the fluid is thick, it won't route it to cool it and take longer for it to warm up. As it warms up, it starts to gradually circulate it through it's entire volume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth1784 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 oh that is kinda interesting then... would be a little better for in the cold perhaps? i know i've been looking at a possible pick up of a temp gauge for the transmission as well to make sure all is well and i dont push it too hard come summer time... hmmmm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 Yep, I'm considering it because temps here dip into the teens sometimes, or even lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth1784 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 yea thats not a bad idea at all... i think i'll follow you then and go for the tru cool and such... thanks for the input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKLGT Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Yep, I'm considering it because temps here dip into the teens sometimes, or even lower. just teens? our temps dip into sub zero... Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nperkins Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 What about AutoX on the 5eat? I am considering trading in my STi for a 5eat LGT, and I'm wondering how it will hold up to the conditions... I am a rather avid autoXer with my STi... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jomamma Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 What about AutoX on the 5eat? I am considering trading in my STi for a 5eat LGT, and I'm wondering how it will hold up to the conditions... I am a rather avid autoXer with my STi... you should pm trs and xleezardx. the track thier 5eat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKLGT Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 What about AutoX on the 5eat? I am considering trading in my STi for a 5eat LGT, and I'm wondering how it will hold up to the conditions... I am a rather avid autoXer with my STi... you'll want to go stg 2 in the 5EAT or you will hate it. just FYI. we have both an 07 STI and 05 LGT 5EAT that we track. I love tracking my 5EAT, but mostly after stg 2. I have ran the STI a few times and it runs completely different. We'll see for the coming season, will be tracking the 08 STI once it's broken in. Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 i personally have used the B&M tranny coolers in my last 2 cars and have nothing but great things to say about them. took my maxima tranny to over 200k miles and its still shifts great. threw one on the xt when i got it. at stage one now with no apparent shifting issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 11, 2008 Author Share Posted June 11, 2008 Thread revival. Called my shop to schedule some work for Stage 2 and they had 2 questions that I did not know the answer to. They looked at some diagrams and their own databases don't really show clearly some things, so here were their questions: -does the turbo have to come off to replace the uppipe? -how many hours of labor to take down the first section of the downpipe to gut the cat? They basically can't tell how easy it is to get to without looking at the car and I was trying to get a quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 turbo does not have to come off and the downpipe is less than an hour with airtools. for the up pipe you need to remove the passenger side wheel and pass side exhaust manifold although some say they can do it without removing it. i did both in my driveway with handtools and beer. took about 8 hours with a friend. many breaks for oreo's and beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korpsepatrol Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 First: No the turbo stays on to take off the up pipe and downpipe. However the manifold needs to be removed and quite possibly the engine might need to be jacked up about 2-6 inches to ease the up pipe removal. Â Second: To gut the cat will take about 30 minutes for those with the proper tools and experience and as much as 1 hour and a half for those without the above skills and tools. Also it is probably not totally possible to remove the front part of the downpipe without removing the whole dp section as a whole. Â However i never really messed with the oem downpipe i brought the whole thing down in one section. Mind you before that moment i have never really touched a car's parts so it was a learning experience and it was fairly easy after the first time you do it. SO you might and might not be able to take off the first part of the downpipe like that but my guess says NO. 2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress 2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold 2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIPÂ R.I.P Coxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 11, 2008 Author Share Posted June 11, 2008 Thank you sirs! I was pretty sure it wasn't going to be a big deal. As a precaution, I am to have them use brand new OEM gaskets, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korpsepatrol Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 turbo does not have to come off and the downpipe is less than an hour with airtools. for the up pipe you need to remove the passenger side wheel and pass side exhaust manifold although some say they can do it without removing it. i did both in my driveway with handtools and beer. took about 8 hours with a friend. many breaks for oreo's and beer There is definitely no need to remove the wheel, just need to jack the engine up a bit from the engine mount and if you removed the passenger side manifold elbow it should pretty much fall right out.  8 hours is quite a bit! The first time i did it took 6 hours and the second time was about 3 hours(hustling a bit). 2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress 2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold 2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIP R.I.P Coxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korpsepatrol Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Thank you sirs! I was pretty sure it wasn't going to be a big deal. As a precaution, I am to have them use brand new OEM gaskets, yes? Accept no substitutes! 2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress 2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold 2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIP R.I.P Coxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 with the wheel out i had a lot easier time tightening the o2 sensor and up pipe. im sure it can be done without it but it just made life a little easier for that day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korpsepatrol Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 ack why do you have your o2 sensor in there? 2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress 2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold 2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIPÂ R.I.P Coxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 i left it in the manifold. didnt have anything else to plug the whole with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korpsepatrol Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 oh oh oh righttttt i forgot i thought you meant egt. Sorrry! 2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress 2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold 2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIPÂ R.I.P Coxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 yeah the egt is still sitting in my stock up pipe. i still did the resistor fix even though i had the ap since no one could tell me whether or not it really removed the CEL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YouAreABus Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 I did my second up-pipe install by myself with just hand tools 2 weekends ago. Got it done in just over 3.5 hours, and I did not remove the manifold either time. I was also able to remove just the downpipe with out removing the mid pipe by unbolting the hangers, that is 1 less gasket you'll have to buy. To get the uppipe out just remove the nut on the passenger's side engine mount, and loosen the driver's side mount nut so it is on by just a few threads. jack up the engine and the uppipe should pretty much fall out. The mount won't want to drop right back in, so pry on the mount a little (it wil flex enough, it's just rubber) and lower the engine back down. Some have said you can remove the roll-pitch stop (the engine mount under the intercooler), but I didn't have to and was able to do the whole job without removing the intercooler, wich saves you from having to buy those gaskets too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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