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The super easy 08 stock radio sub install guide


CzarDestructo

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So I bought a Legacy a few weeks ago, and ever since I've been lurking around these forums looking for ideas on how to install a sub in my car without having to replace the stock radio or hacking up the interior. So here is a collection of the information I gathered and the finished product.

 

 

Items and resources worth mentioning:

 

Subaru Tech Info

This page has all sorts of useful manuals on how to install factory bought items from Subaru. Scroll down and find "2008 Satelite Radio Kit, Sirius - Legacy and Tribeca (07MY+) (H621SXA100)". This manual will show 08 Legacy owners how to take out their radio step by step. Be careful, some documents are labeled as 08 but are in fact instructions for 07.

 

14 pin radio connector pin map.

 

 

Line Converter with built in ground loop isolator, works awsome. Gives a perfect, clean signal to run to your amp.

 

Very cheap subwoofer box, however its dimensions fit PERFECTLY to the contour of the back seats. It slides in perfectly snug and allows just enough height above it for the tension bars for the trunk door. Furthermore the little opening from the back seat arm rest is almost a perfect 10" wide so the sub fits in there as if it was custom made :D

 

 

The Process:

 

-Remove the radio

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1955.JPG

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1959.JPG

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1963.JPG

 

-For hooking up the Line Converter I took out the radio and attatched six quick splice connectors onto the back of the 14 pin connector. Four being for the rear channels, one for ground (for the line converters built in ground loop isolator), and the last one being the 12V accessory connector to use as the remote wire for the amplifier.

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1973.JPG

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1979.JPG

clearly labeled, just incase

 

I HIGHLY recommend buying the Forward + Reverse Radio Wiring Harness. This will allow all the wiring to be done outside of the car so when you take out the radio all you need to do is plug it into the back, route your 6 wires, and put it all back together.

 

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1980.JPG

Line converter all wired up under the passanger seat.

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1982.JPG

sloppy trunk work, needs a lot of cleaning :)

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_1983.JPG

interior shot, 1500watt 10"

 

 

Problems I've encountered thus far:

 

-I can not safely remove the rear door sills to route the RCA and power connectors. I had absolutely no problem popping off the front ones however the rear ones refuse to budge. I've pulled so hard I've made creases and stress marks in them. What the hell am I doing wrong, has anyone else had a ton of trouble getting these off? What kind of technique should I employ?

 

-The radio appears to stiffle some of the mids and ALL of the lows at high volumes. I've noticed at anything above "20" for the volume that the mids and lows get normalized and stuck at the same level, I assume to protect the stock speakers. As a result the subwoofer also gets pinned at a particular volume. I'm working on a means to linearize the output however at this time it seems like the only solution would be an amplifier gain control on the dash.

 

Next on my list of things to do, find an LCD kit for the cubby hole so I can install an XPC in the trunk. :)

 

Feel free to ask questions to give me input, I'm sure I've forgotten to mention important details.

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I would stay away from Ground Loop Isolators. I would only use one as a very last attempt to get rid of noise. Even then I would be hesitant. I have a navone GLI and even that one decreases the sound quality when put inline. I have a regular navone LOC on my factory radio with zero noise in my system.

 

If you put an amp w/high pass filter on the factory front speakers, they will sound pretty good. This will probably help with your volume problem with the factory radio.

 

The rear door sills do come up but they are a pita. There are special tools that are meant to be used to pop the clips.

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So I've been enjoying the MTX re-Q for a couple of days now and I must say I'm pretty satisfied for the money I spent on the whole system ($400). Although the re-Q isn't perfect it definately a huge upgrade over a simple line converter and makes the stock stereo sound amazing. Considering the stock speakers don't sound half bad and get pretty loud for the highs and mids this is a fantastic alternative to the more expensive systems considering it will only run you about $80. Also it has a full range RCA output as well as sub output. Highly recommend it.

 

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_2010.JPG

 

Up next...

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_2001.JPG

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_2000.JPG

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As for the sills, i'll get some different tools tomorrow and try again.

 

 

Any luck with them?

 

I just ran some wires on my 08 wagon. I'd imagine your sills are similar? I had to remove the rear seat to access the sills. The sills are connected to the weatherstripping, making removal a pain. I was able to lift them up, but almost broke one when trying to separate it from the weatherstripping. I recommend leaving them connected to the stripping, and just lifting them up along with the weatherstripping. Unless you discovered something better?

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thanks for breaking the ice, I also have an '08 and want to do this myself. I have done this to several cars I have had, an a4, honda element, and a cherokee. I'm not sure if you have done any other vehicle, but was this somewhat simple? I would kill myself if I did something stupid to the brand new car ya know! Well good job, and good luck with the future work. good right up by the way
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  • 2 weeks later...
Any luck with them?

 

I just ran some wires on my 08 wagon. I'd imagine your sills are similar? I had to remove the rear seat to access the sills. The sills are connected to the weatherstripping, making removal a pain. I was able to lift them up, but almost broke one when trying to separate it from the weatherstripping. I recommend leaving them connected to the stripping, and just lifting them up along with the weatherstripping. Unless you discovered something better?

 

I finally got around to doing it two days ago, it wasn't pretty...

 

I removed the back seat bottom cushion and spent a good 20 minutes of cursing and cutting up my fingers to get the passenger one off. Basically I yanked at it until the plastic softened up enough to pop out. The first notch (closest to the front of the car) popped first then the second popped immediately afterward. I have no idea how/why. The drivers side, forget it. I yanked and pulled for 30 minutes, got really pissed off and stood on the sill in the middle and yanked as hard as I could on the far end to get it to pop. Made crease marks in the plastic and it looks like crap now. I don't know what the hell Subaru was thinking when they made these, and I don't know why they're so much more difficult than the front ones (which came out with ease) but it certainly made me think less of the company. Anyway, I couldn't even get the second notch undone so I did what you did and just lifted it up with the white plastic piece under it, rug, and weatherstripping together. There was just enough room after I released the front one to get the job done.

 

I will NEVER waste any more of my life playing around with the rear sills. Ever.

 

By the way, I did this without tools. Only thing that might have helped would be two flat pry bars to pull up from both sides.

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So I've been enjoying the MTX re-Q for a couple of days now and I must say I'm pretty satisfied for the money I spent on the whole system ($400). Although the re-Q isn't perfect it definately a huge upgrade over a simple line converter and makes the stock stereo sound amazing. Considering the stock speakers don't sound half bad and get pretty loud for the highs and mids this is a fantastic alternative to the more expensive systems considering it will only run you about $80. Also it has a full range RCA output as well as sub output. Highly recommend it.

 

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_2010.JPG

 

Up next...

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_2001.JPG

http://members.cox.net/spedonabike/Legacy/thumb/IMG_2000.JPG

 

what type of XPC r u using this is going to be a birthday gift for myself and trying to see whats good out there lmk

 

rao741

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I finally got around to doing it two days ago, it wasn't pretty...

 

I removed the back seat bottom cushion and spent a good 20 minutes of cursing and cutting up my fingers to get the passenger one off. Basically I yanked at it until the plastic softened up enough to pop out. The first notch (closest to the front of the car) popped first then the second popped immediately afterward. I have no idea how/why. The drivers side, forget it. I yanked and pulled for 30 minutes, got really pissed off and stood on the sill in the middle and yanked as hard as I could on the far end to get it to pop. Made crease marks in the plastic and it looks like crap now. I don't know what the hell Subaru was thinking when they made these, and I don't know why they're so much more difficult than the front ones (which came out with ease) but it certainly made me think less of the company. Anyway, I couldn't even get the second notch undone so I did what you did and just lifted it up with the white plastic piece under it, rug, and weatherstripping together. There was just enough room after I released the front one to get the job done.

 

I will NEVER waste any more of my life playing around with the rear sills. Ever.

 

By the way, I did this without tools. Only thing that might have helped would be two flat pry bars to pull up from both sides.

 

Yeah, I started to make a crease in one of mine when I decided to just leave the bugger attached to the weatherstripping. The weatherstripping came up easier than trying to separate the two. That, and I didn't want to my sills to look like crap. Instead I snaked the wiring under the carpet on top of the tranny tunnel. That was a pain too. :mad: Are you gonna leave the sills as is, or see about replacing them?

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what type of XPC r u using this is going to be a birthday gift for myself and trying to see whats good out there lmk

 

rao741

 

I still up in the air. I might use a Shuttle XPC SN41G2 that I have laying around but what you see in the picture is a HP T5000 thin client. I'm having a very difficult time compiling a working version of Windows XPe that has all the software I want. I might give up and just use the XPC I have laying around.

 

 

 

Are you gonna leave the sills as is, or see about replacing them?

I'm just going to leave them for now. 98% of the time I just use it just to get back and forth from work so no one will ever notice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nick, great thread and welcome to the forum!

 

I'd really like to do a touchscreen install in the cubby in the future. Something similar to the DashDaq2 interface on a mini-itx platform... It'd be great if it could double as a media library as well. Nav expandability would be a plus, although not really necessary. Glad you'll be around to help me piece it together!

 

-Rick

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  • 4 months later...
I will NEVER waste any more of my life playing around with the rear sills. Ever.

Though I haven't done this yet, based on what you describe its identical to my 98 Camry. Easily removed the front and made it past the seat belt and then the rear would just not come up :(

 

 

Could you please re-link your sub box and line converter links? Or at least provide alittle more info / description.

 

Thanks :)

lol
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The line converter got scrapped, I have it sitting in a tool box. The radio scales the bass and treble with volume, so with the line converter you're constantly adjusting the bass to match the volume level. I got the MTX re-Q, which is a poor mans CleanSweep. The installation is the same as the line converter only it has a DSP chip and normalizes the bass based on volume. It does a great job, although it's still not perfect. Still a huge upgrade over stock.

 

As for the sub box I would recommend against it as well, although it fits perfectly into the seat I've found that side firing in the legacy trunk is literally double the sound quality and volume. It sounds SO much better sideways, so I have it twisted around now. Just poke around ebay and take some trunk measurements to go on and see what you come up with.

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