toshiba2.5 Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Im so broke now cause of my car..all started with the damn drop in filter then pulley,AP.cbe,UP,DP Springs,2 speeding tickets and traffic school. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Im so broke now cause of my car..all started with the damn drop in filter then pulley,AP.cbe,UP,DP Springs,2 speeding tickets and traffic school. That makes two of us. Pretty much the except same thing only minus the springs but I did just put an AVO TMIC in my ride last night and picked up a vf40-18g. The two tickets will cost me a bit, next mods are, buying stock mufflers to avoid having a bullseye on my ride with the huge sound/cans and then get a radar detector/jammer. I had been repeatedly told to get one, I think I'm going to adhead to others advice on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 1, 2007 Author Share Posted November 1, 2007 Well, just when I thought I was out of the woods with my problems, something new comes up. No more oil issues, but now I think the up-pipe has a leak. I was cruising along and I just hit the gas in 4th to acclerate 10 more mph, and all of a sudden, I get the high-pitched tea kettle whistle, so I was pretty sure that it's just probably a loose bolt. But after I got home and let the car cool off for a little, I started it back up to go somewhere, and now the sound is a very low scraping sound, almost like the clickity-clack sound when an old truck acclerates. My car sounds like its 25 years old. The sound only happens when the turbo is spooling, it gets louder as I go from vaccum to boost, and full boost its pretty loud. When the turbo is helping out accelerating the car, I can't even hear my perrin drop in filter. I'm gonna see if the guy that put the uppipe in can just get it up in the air and check for loose bolts, and if its anything more than that, i'll take it to the subaru technician I know. Do you think its just an up-pipe leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toshiba2.5 Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 i had the same sound and i found that my gasket for UP/mani blew out.i changed that and no more old truck sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy05 Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 I didn't read through all the posts, but does your up-pipe have a flex joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 1, 2007 Author Share Posted November 1, 2007 oh ok, thanks. Did you replace it with an oem gasket? It makes the old truck sound in the lower rpm during vacuum, but once the turbo hits about 5 psi, it changes over to the tea kettle sound. Sometimes, it doesn't make the noise at all... Its a flex uppipe so I dont know why it would be leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 oh ok, thanks. Did you replace it with an oem gasket? It makes the old truck sound in the lower rpm during vacuum, but once the turbo hits about 5 psi, it changes over to the tea kettle sound. Sometimes, it doesn't make the noise at all... Its a flex uppipe so I dont know why it would be leaking. Did you use new oem gaskets for the up pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 ...and then get a radar detector/jammer. I had been repeatedly told to get one, I think I'm going to adhead to others advice on that. Don't bother with the radar jammers. Nothing passive works, and the active stuff only works in a "kinda" manner. Even the working ones can land you in some serious trouble, as they violate federal laws.... As for laser, that's a different story. There's some passive stuff you can do to cut the car's LIDAR return, and if you're willing to invest in a good active laser jammer, they definitely do work. Your area may or may not have laws governing the use of an active laser jammer. Note, however, that even in areas where they're not outright prohibited, the enforcer can still cite you for other infractions that may be just as serious (er...."obstruction of justice/duties" comes to-mind). Use your jammer wisely. Search for the keyword "jammer" on the Forums, you'll see what my recommendations are, and why. This is my latest post about this subject: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73475&highlight=jammer -- As for radar detectors, any of the top-flight models will do just fine. Again, it's a radar detector, not a "cop detector." Use it wisely as a tool, and you'll do well. Rely on it blindly, and you'll still get nailed by visual-estimation, pacing, airborne and land-VASCAR, etc. - none of which any radar detector, even the "best," can protect you against. For good detector reviews, go here: http://www.guysoflidar.com/august-2007/radar-detector-test.html Depending on your budget and protection needs, even some of the "second-tier" products will protect you very, very well. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 1, 2007 Author Share Posted November 1, 2007 Did you use new oem gaskets for the up pipe? no, I used the gaskets megan racing gave me. It would be such a pita if I had to replace the gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 no, I used the gaskets megan racing gave me. It would be such a pita if I had to replace the gaskets. I'm not familiar with the quality of the mr gaskets but I would guess your exhaust leak is coming because you didn't use OEM gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toshiba2.5 Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 I have Megan also and the gaskets they have me suck.the gasket for up/manifold blew out and i changed it to oem.i bet you have the same problem i did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 MR gaskets are TERRIBLE. In fact their DP isn't much better :S On a side note.. Should i just put my old OEM gaskets back in (I took them out at 7000 miles) Or just go buy new ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toshiba2.5 Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Buy new ones to be on the safe side and to save you time and frustration. King of parts sell thém for cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 so your problem was at the manifold-uppipe connection? I'm gonna have the subaru tech I know look at it hopefully this weekend, it sucks trying to stay completely off the turbo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 so your problem was at the manifold-uppipe connection? I'm gonna have the subaru tech I know look at it hopefully this weekend, it sucks trying to stay completely off the turbo... This is just one of those things you can't cheese out on. I learned the hardway with some crap obx headers on my accord, I used their gaskets and not OEM to save an extra 30 bucks, I always had a slight exhaust leak after. Drove me nuts till I swapped out gaskets. You need to do the same my friend. How is your oil problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 yeah, I'm gonna swap the gaskets for oem asap. It just sucks because its almost as bad as putting the uppipe itself in. My oil situation is fine now, no more leaks. At least that ordeal is over...knock on wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 I ALWAYS recommend using OEM gaskets. Frankly the MR supplied gaskets pretty much suck. You can get by with them, and if retorqued a week or two after the initial install they will seal up ok, but they simply don't last as long as the OEM gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 Yeah, I didn't really even research the gaskets too much before hand...Now I gotta have someone take apart the whole thing again and change them for OEM, ugh. I'm probably gonna have to wait a week or so until I can get it done, so for now, I must drive my car around with the disgraceful old truck sound and everybody asking whats wrong with my mufflers. Oh yeah, and the boost isn't too strong either, the car isn't as powerful thanks to the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 This MR setup has been nothing but headaches OEM Gaskets here i come..and the damn downpipe still wont stop clunking even after sawing off some of my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 7, 2007 Author Share Posted November 7, 2007 having the same problems? I'm glad you can benefit from my mistakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 Did you get your leak fixed yet Double? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 I will on Saturday. One of the other users (puzzled) is going to help me get it fixed over at his house. So I only have to listen to this old truck for a couple more days. Have you decided what you want to do with your exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 It shouldn't be too bad to change that mani->UP gasket. You should be able to get it done from the bottom without taking the IC and DP off. Just drop the skid plate, remove the heatshields, take out the O2 senor(if you can't work around it with box ends, remove the two mani->UP bolts and slip the new OE gasket in. You may need to push up on the drivers side of the engine a little if the gap is too tight for the gasket, but you still shouldn't have to disassemble everything like they did to install the UP. Let us know how it goes. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 ^ +1. Even on a rigid-pipe aftermarket UP, the pass.manifold-to-UP gasket replacement should be easily do-able from under the vehicle, with only the removal of the aero/skid-plate, manifold heat-shields needing disassembly (and, of course, the pass.manifold O2). <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleM Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 Yeah, they say it should take them less than an hour for the whole thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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