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AVO BOV Installed (With Instructions and Pix!)


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[quote name='axis008']Finally! I'm so happy you got the thing to behave. When I get my car, I'm going to have to visit you so I can hear that sound in person. :p[/QUOTE] Anytime Axis, you don't have to wait till new car, you can visit me whenever you like and test drive the car yourself.
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[quote name='Autophysics']I used to have a 1993 MR2 Turbo and I loved the sound of the stock BOV fluttering chirping and whooshing with custom intake. I miss that in my LGT. It might sound ricey to be concerned about turbo sound, but I have to admit that it added to the experience for me. Having said that, I wouldn't spend big bucks just for sound effects - if the AVO BOV helped to keep turbo spooled between shifts I'd buy it in a heartbeat, but the consensus seems to be that the stock recirculating bov functions just fine for whatever the stock turbo can output. I was hoping that kikko would notice a performance increase but if he doesn't notice it, and it's adjusted properly, then I guess I won't be buying.[/QUOTE] If you like the BOV and turbo sounds, why don't you just buy a Perrin short ram intake?
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Thanks kikko, you're the man! To answer your question above, it doesn't have the same effect, on a literal sense, as an aftermarket BOV. Rather, what he's trying to say is when you get the intake, you can hear the whoosh in the stock blowoff valve.
-ben
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Sounds like the bov was letting in un-metered air past the mass airflow sensor, thereby confusing the ecu and causing it to dump additional un-needed fuel into the combustion chamber. I would bet if you put the backing plate you took off for the "cool sound" that the car would run a lot better. :D
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I moved the thing on top of the BOV, the adjustable thing. How do I figure out the way it came? The car was real rough and shaky when it was on. I noticed after I put the stock one back on, that I for got to put the other little hose back on. Could of that been why it was rough? I have the stock one on right now and it runs fine. I need to get a torque wrench too by the way. Help o|-| c|-|uTe:confused:
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Hey Kikkaman(sp?). If you'd like to learn more about boost & things that relate to it, you should pick up Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost." Great book, very informative.
It is the disposition of men to desire that which he cannot have, hence my un-quenchable wet desire for Shakira!
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Just installed my AVO BOV. The install is wicked easy. But, yes I should have looked at this thread before installing. No big deal, I just didn't know how to adjust the atmosphere return. The BOV is set for 50/50 and sounds good. It is not a "duck caller", but very suttle Goooosh. The biggest question: Is it worth it? I bought it because of the set up I am going to go to. The stock BOV is not going to handle the boost like the AVO will. So if you are going to a aftermarket setup (turbo FMIC, ect.) then yes it is worth it.
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[quote name='firedawgs']Is it worth it? I bought it because of the set up I am going to go to. The stock BOV is not going to handle the boost like the AVO will. So if you are going to a aftermarket setup (turbo FMIC, ect.) then yes it is worth it.[/quote] +1
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I thought that these cars had to be on recirculate because of the way the MAF metering system worked. Try putting it back to recirculating and see what you get -- the screw should really only adjust the amount of pressure differential required for the valve to 'lift' off the seat when you let off the gas. the 'tighter' it is, the more tension is required (louder noise, because of larger pressure release)
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I don't get where this whole loss in power theory really comes into play.

 

The lighter the pressure on the BOV the quicker it is to respond. Period. I'm not sure how many lbs the springrate is set on the factory BOV, but i know for a fact that most Bosch FACTORY BOV's are set with 15 nm pretension to lift the valve off its seat (before mechanical advance).. Most of the time under vaccum, the valve will open allowing air to enter through the BOV (a problem for cars which are venting to the atmosphere, because you allow unfiltered air back in)...

 

I know these bosch valves are stock on a lot of Saab, VW, Audi, and Porsche applications -- they come in three different configurations (at least that i've seen) and all of them share the same 'test' procedure of testing the spring tension by seating the valve over a low threshold torque gauge and seeing how much tension it takes to lift the valve off the seat.

 

My point being -- installing another valve, and setting the lift pressure to light -- should not adversely affect performance in the least. Now, as far as the recirculation argument goes -- sure, your going to richen up the fuel mixture at every shift by shortchanging the engine management the few cfm it was expecting returned by the BOV, however, in higher rev endurance applications, it should be notied that the rich burst of fuel is a desired effect to keep cylinder temps down in upper revs. How much that really hurts performance, is all in how you take it.

 

Here's an idea: Next time someone goes to install one of these things, dyno before and after. Set it all the way to recirculate. Then set it all the way to vent. Try it again at 50/50. My guess, not losing much, and i'd be willing to bet 50/50 is probably the best split between the two, allowing rapid discharge with very little backpressure, keeping the turbo spooling faster for longer. If the valve is set for light actuation pressure, this should mimic a stock valve very nicely, with the advantage of restriction free venting. (not that that should matter, your discharging into a vaccum anyways!)

 

--LL

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