My Uppipe install (with pictures...)

[d_jamont]

So it's not a leak or failure, it's just the characteristic of the pipe....

 

Thanks!

[505Lgt]

i just did my perrin UP while i was doing my clutch. made life easy with no tranny in the car to get in the way. it was a bitch to get the OEM one out tho. but i got it. and i had the same leak as on the first page. turns out i did have a leak. so i retightened EVERY exhaust bolt just for reassurance. every thing is good now. spools much faster. i dont hear it tho, due to my cobb short ram.

[ibr_adam09]

Upgraded the catted uppipe to a cat-less Invidia Uppipe.

 

THIS WAS A BITCH TO INSTALL !!!

 

I had to remove the motor shroud, turbo heat shields, exhaust heat shield, exhaust manifold, spashguard and Down-pipe. I counted... 29 nuts and bolts to remove, most of which I had to PB blast.

 

It took 4 1/2 hours.

 

On the bright side, I got the Rhino ramps for $30 bucks !!!

 

The car accelerates much faster, almost flies through the rpm's now without that stupid cat in the way. Turbo spool is a bit louder in the cabin which doesn't bother me, but now there is this constant "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" sound that's pretty annoying !? (like a window slighty open sound)

 

A little tip : I have the Invidia up with EGT bung. I cut the wires off and the long tip off the sensor and used the 14mm screw left of it to cover the bung up. It was tough screwing it in. For some reason it was so tight I had to use a beaker bar to get a few threads in, but I didn't want too leave the hole there. Then I did the 2.2k resistor mod and coverd it up by stiping the female plug to go over the male end.

 

So now I'm left with a few questions:

 

1) Is that "Shhhhhhhhhhhh" sound normal for this upgrade ? you can clearly here it in the cabin while doing 30+ mph

out side the car, i didn't hear any leaking or feeling any air escaping around the gaskets

 

2) As the car was warming up, I notice some smoke coming from the uppipe side, but then it went away after 15 or so minutes ( I'm guessing this was just grime or oil that was burning away from the pipes)

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290918423.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290918419.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290918416.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290914727.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290914724.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290914722.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/th_1290914718.jpg

[mccorry]

1.) Yes.... normal, assuming it's not that loud. Mine chirps a little as the turbo spools... then I get the shhhhhhhh.

 

2.) Just oil from your hands, PB blaster, etc. burning off.

[ibr_adam09]

Haha ok. For some reason today, I kept telling myself that I should have used new gaskets, so I actually went out the dealer and bought 3. The two turbo gaskets and lower uppipe gasket. I dont know why, i had so much pride in finishing the install that I feel like I could knock it out the second time around, so why not:lol:

[Subadozer]

I read through this whole thread and picked up a bunch of useful information. It may be old but the contents are timeless. Thanks to all the previous participants. I've said it before but for the noobs, Search is your friend. But probably if you're reading this you already know that.

 

I have a used STi UP (BTW, what is the official Subaru nomenclature for this part?) and plan to change out my OEM as part of upgrading my turbo with a BNR 16g. Anything additional good or bad I should be aware of in doing it this way as opposed to just doing the pipe by itself? Guess one thing I learned is that I should probably pick up a right side exhaust manifold gasket to make life easier in getting things all back together.

 

Also, I've seen times of about 4 hours each for doing a turbo and an up pipe. Should I expect a time of 6-8 hours for doing both or is there a benefit of combined processes that will make it something less than 6 hours?

[motorbykemike]

i read this thread AFTER i did a new vf52 turbo & greddy up install .

 

up came w/ no instructions but did come w/ both gaskets & new studs/nuts for turbo end.

 

after turbo removal i removed my up from the TOP of the car , the 2 lower bolts were truly a muddafugger but after doing it once and learning the tricks to it i am confident i may have a better way .the up comes right out the top no problem once the bolts are out , i just unplugged the egt probe & it came out w/ up .

 

on the up to ex manifold flange there are 2 bolts , i used channellocks to tweak the manifold heats shield just a little to get a wrench in there to hold the nut on the upper bolt , when i installed the up i used 45deg needlenose to put the bolt in from front of car to back & the nut on up side , opposite of factory orientation . the bolt was also a good place to "hang" the gasket .

 

the other bolt , the one on the bottom , i removed the plastic push pins holding the big under car plastic tray in the pass side wheel well . i was then able to sneak a wrench in 'tween the o2 sensor & heat shield to hold the nut . this one was reinstalled in factory orientation .

 

i did this job by myself but it would be a little easier w/ someone to work the second or lower bolt from top of car as it required a longish extension & universal joint .

 

dp was removed also during this job .

 

overall not fun but sounds like less work & gaskets than the typical method .

 

your results may vary .

 

 

 

p.s. the turbo to dp nut shown missing earlier in this thread was missing on my car too .

[motorbykemike]

subadozer , pm me your #

[OutbackXT05]

Thanks for the walk through. Made the install a lot easier....minus the rust blah

[MDKSDMF]

wheres the best vendor to order fresh gaskets? FBP? im tlaking about all "pipe" aplications not just up'

[mustangendsley]

Grimmspeed.com /\

[MDKSDMF]

Thanks. I also saw fbp has the muffler gaskets too. Time to compare. good looks ^

[Subadozer]

wheres the best vendor to order fresh gaskets? FBP? im tlaking about all "pipe" aplications not just up'

Got mine (GrimmSpeed) from msprank.

[Subadozer]

Yesterday I was successful in getting most of a broken stud out of one of the used STi UP's I have. There's still something in the threads in one spot that just won't come out and I boogered the threads just a bit, all to the point that I want to chase the threads so the new stud will go in. I'd really prefer not to have to buy a 10mmx1.25 tap just for this. Any suggestions on sourcing the use of a tap or where to take this to have it tapped out?

 

Problem solved. I asked at work today and we had a nice set of metric taps and dies so the new stud is now nicely installed and while I was at it I ran a die on all the rest to make sure any burrs were gone from them. Now I just have to decide which of the 2 pipes I have that I want to keep and I'll have one ready to sell.

[MDKSDMF]

Got mine (GrimmSpeed) from msprank.

 

are the muffler gaskets (assuming they are for stock application) that u can get thru FBP etc fit the aftermarket flanges for the X02 xk lighting etc?

[d_jamont]

Gents,

 

Great thread.... I think I'm ready to tackle this project this weekend.

 

I'll be replacnig the OEM Up with a Grimmspeed; and the OEM Down with a CNT catted.

 

I'm curious to know what the torque specs are on a few things:

 

1.) Exhaust manifold to heads

2.) Up pipe to exhaust manifold flange

3.) Up pipe to turbo flange

4.) DP to Turbo flange

5.) DP to Mid pipe flange.

 

I could not find specs anywhere on any website or forum thread.

 

I definitely do not want to get this thing back together, and end up with an exhaust leak. I know Grimmspeed has a specific order or re-torquing the bolts, but they never mention the torque specs.

 

Cheers,

 

Don

[mccorry]

26 ft-lbs if I remember correctly.... all of them.

 

Torque them... then torque them again after a few heat cycles.

[d_jamont]

Gents,

 

Thanks for the feedback on the torque specs!

 

I also wrote Grimmspeed as it is their up-pipe, and they wrote back with every torque spec under the sun!

 

That was a great example of outstanding customer service, good job Grimmspeed!

 

Here are the specs for anyone else doing this mod:

[d_jamont]

Hey guys, here are the torque specs provided by Will @ Grimmspeed.

 

Downpipe-to-catback torque spec...........13.0 ft-lbs

Axle-back torque spec ..........................35.4 ft-lbs

Exhaust bracket torque spec ..................26.0 ft-lbs

Transmission bracket torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs

Downpipe-to-midpipe torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs

Downpipe-to-turbo torque spec .............. 26.0 ft-lbs

Uppipe-to-turbo torque spec ...................26.0 ft-lbs

Turbo bracket @ up-pipe torque spec .......26.0 ft-lbs

Turbo bracket-to-block torque spec .........24.6 ft-lbs (highly unlikely you will need this one.)

Head-to-manifold torque spec .................29.8 ft-lbs

Manifold-to-crossover pipe torque spec .....26.0 ft-lbs

Manifold-to-uppipe torque spec ...............26.0 ft-lbs

Manifold heatshield torque spec ...............9.6 ft-lbs

Front 02 sensor torque spec ...................22.1 ft-lbs

Rear 02 sensor torque spec ....................15.2 ft-lbs

Intercooler-to-turbo flange torque spec ....11.6 ft-lbs

Intercooler brackets torque spec .............11.6 ft-lbs

By-pass valve-to-intercooler torque spec .. 4.8 ft-lbs

[d_jamont]

Guys,

 

I finished my first mods to my car yesterday. The up and down pipes.

 

The up-pipe was definitely tricky, and a two person job from my point of view, as we ran into multiple snags that took both of us to figure out.

 

First of all my car is an 05, and has seen 3 salty Canadian winters. Lots of bolts were rusted, making them hard to get a purchase on using sockets or wrenches.

 

I PB blasted as many bolts the night before as I could see after taking off the undertray.

 

We broke about 6 bolts taking the exhaust system apart, including the two spring-bolts that hold the mid-pipe to the up-pipe; one cross-pipe to manifold bolt (it was cross threaded); one manifold to up-pipe bolt (cross threaded) and two small bolts that held the stock up-pipe heat shield.

 

Second biggest headache was the O2 sensor in the passenger side manifold. It would not come out, and there is a small flange that stops you from getting a normal wrench in there. I ended up buying an 02 sensor removed socket (slotted side on a tall socket) and it wouldn't even budge the sensor. The socket actually slipped on the sensor, and started to round the corners. This was very problematic, as the sensor/flange combo blocked the access to one of the Manifold to up-pipe bolt. So we ended up grinding and filing down the flange to allow us to get a socket on the bolt we needed to remove.

 

We actually removed the manifold along with the top half of the heat shield and sensor in one piece. It was tricky, but we wiggled it out.

 

The removal of the up-pipe seemed trickier to me than my buddy, and I had given up trying to remove it without jacking up the engine, and was gong to get the jack, and when I got back to the car he had wiggled it by himself. Don't know how he did it, but it worked.

 

Re-assembly was a snap, the new Grimmspeed pipe slid right in, even with the engine down. We laid a bead of Permatex copper gasket around each side of the each new gasket we installed, as per adice on this thread. It helped us keep the gaskets in one place as we wiggled parts around and got them back into place. Not a single exhaust leak was found.

 

A bolt that was the most problematic to reach for reassembly was on the underside of the CNT racing down-pipe, where it bolts to the turbo. The shape of the bellmouth doesn't allow you to fit a socket in there, and you can only fit the open end of a wrench in from the bottom, and turn it about 1/8 of a turn each time, with little to no ability to really torque the nut tight. Good luck getting a torque wrench on that.

 

Anyhow, the new system works well, I uploaded the Stg II realtime map from my accessport, and it performs well. You can definitely hear the turbo whistle on the shifts, and I also think the turbo respoonse is better than before.

 

The next step is a custom-made 3" single exhaust from a shop in town. An AVO catback is $1500 plus shipping and duty to Canada... yikes!

 

Cheers,

 

Don

[O.C.D.]

Dredging up an old thread but a very valuable one indeed.

 

Started my UP install last night and I can say that this is a job!!! I am very capable and can do most anything to a vehicle but this is a fun one. As we speak my UP is loosely hanging in my LGT and I can't get it out. I understand that I might need to raise the block a bit and will try that.

 

My main reason for adding to the thread is to make note of a few things.

 

Take your time first of all. This is not a quick job.

 

Also, as my car is almost 8 years old I was expecting the worst like sheared bolts and broken studs, etc. Use PB Blaster liberally and soak those bad boys. I got to half of them before work and those came off very easily later that night. The ones I didn't/couldn't spray were on like no other. But I am happy to say every single one cracked nicely and came off without a loss.

 

Not many people are mentioning the 2,000 heat shields on the exhaust. I had never really looked under the car until this mod (owned my car a month) and didn't know there were so many. Be prepared for that fun.

 

Save yourself the time and just undo the O2 sensor and drop the yellow run. When you do this the heat shield will slide off without needing to remove it. The upper bolt on the lower UP to Manifold is hindered by this sensor. If you can crack it with a wrench then just hit the backside to remove.

 

A big word of advise to those with the banjo bolt in the turbo line - THIS IS A GREAT CHANCE TO REMOVE THE BANJO FILTER!!!! Your access will be much better and easier while doing all of this.

 

Now to get that up out, lol.

[Brock Samson]

2 stupid questions. Probably stupid, who knows:

 

putting in a new turbo next week, and replacing the stock catted UP with a used STi UP. Do I need to fool with the exhaust manifold if the turbo is out? Seems like I should just be able to unbolt the lower end of the UP and pull it straight up.

 

second, does the OEM STi pipe have an EGT bung on it? If so, what's the spec on the bolt to plug it up?

[.Catalyst.]

Shouldn't have a bung - EGT sensor is only there if there's a cat in place to monitor.

[Brock Samson]

Got my UP last night. Dead simple!

[Subadozer]

putting in a new turbo next week, and replacing the stock catted UP with a used STi UP.

second, does the OEM STi pipe have an EGT bung on it? If so, what's the spec on the bolt to plug it up?

You may already know this but you may need to add a resistor to the O-sensor plug to fool the system into thinking there's still a sensor.