hodgeee Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Just got these in the mail yesterday, ordered from RaceCompEngineering, $420 shipped to my door. Well, couldn't find any place that would install these for less than $400, and the dealership wanted $500, so I said screw it and rented some spring compressors. The whole job took 4 hours to complete and really is not that hard, just make sure you get a strong air ratchet since my 120lbft one was not strong enough, and I had to borrow my brothers 250lb ratchet. Well, it said 15 to 25 mm drop, but I tell you, it dropped it an inch all around. It looks just right and the tires fit the wheel wells perfectly. Not to much of a drop and I hope the stock shocks are made to hold up to this. I also found that the camber can be set with the top bolt that holds the strut to the spindle, it is an offset spinner nut, and allows about 1 to 2 degrees of adjustment. I turned the camber to as much negative that I could get, and it looks like about -1 degree of camber. From previous lowered vehicles that I have had, this is a nice setting to get good tire wear and sharper turn in and handling. Ok, when driving straight the car rides like it is completely stock for decent roads, bumps and divits in the road are soaked up better, with less rebound. The sloppiness of the stock suspension is gone, and when turning in, the car feels tighter, with less lean. With some swaybar upgrades on this car, this thing will be quite the corner carver. Now I see why so many WRX and STI guys swear by these pink springs. All the good, is enhanced, and all the bad, seems fixed. This spring set on the Legacy is the best kit I have run on a car yet, blending in such a smooth ride, while offering a very good upgrade in handling. STI really has done a great job! I know a lot of people are waiting for other springs comming out from a lot of companies, but if you are not into absolute handling that a coilover will provide, I don't see what any other spring kit will offer over these, unless you just gotta go lower or something. I will post a pic later today after the sun comes up and I get my butt out of bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtguy Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Explain further, Hodgee. Some have discussed the difficulties presented by the rear suspension setup, for DIYers. I believe Xenonk talked about needing two jacks for some reason. Is this the case. As far as drop, did you measure before and after? You can do fenderwell to ground, or fenderwell to wheel center, but both will give a measurement of precisely how much the springs drop the car. It's rare for STi stuff to be off spec, and while a 1/2" isn't significant in the grand scheme of things, it could matter as regards the ultimate longevity of the stock struts. On another note, it seems that speculation about a stiffer spring being a better match to the stock struts, resulting in better bump absorption might be true. Nice report, Hodgee, and keep the information coming. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Yeah, great report. :D These things are looking more and more like exactly what I want out of the GT's suspension... a little better body control without a huge ride penalty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastgascar Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 After about 2000 miles on the pinks it's pretty settled and it's about an 1" to 1.25" lower than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtguy Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 As near as I can tell from the pics, fastgascar, at the front, the stock number is 26.25" to the bottom of the fenderwell, versus 25.25" post-STi spring. At the rear, it looks like 26", vs 25.5". It's hard to tell from the pictures, though. That lowering is kind of odd, so I could be reading the numbers wrong. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nendo Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 ohhh nice i cant friggin wit till my pinks come in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastgascar Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 The pictures post install were taken about 100 miles after. The car is now settled and the alignment is done. The guys @ the local meet that I go to have also said that it's now even lower. I have an even 1.5" gap from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender all the way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdave Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Pretty much looks like the difference between a base 3-series, and a Sport Package-equipped 3'er. Just what I'm after. Thanks for the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaceComp Engineering Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Yes you got one of the 3 that were in stock. I'm sure when this next batch comes in, prob right before Thanksgiving, there will be alot more reviews. ITs glad to see a great product brought from the land of the fortunate, to our shores for us to enjoy !!! Myles RCE 410-730-7223 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBE555 Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Looks like the likely upgrade for my Wagon next year. :) Can't wait to see the difference on a Wagon. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaceComp Engineering Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 [quote name='SUBE555']Looks like the likely upgrade for my Wagon next year. :) Can't wait to see the difference on a Wagon. :D[/QUOTE] well in about 2 weeks, you'll have about 12 wgaons giving reviews. :D 944 turbo guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTCanada Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 [QUOTE] Can't wait to see the difference on a Wagon.[/QUOTE] My review will be tainted by the fact that I will have winter tires on but it will be interesting to see how they cope with ice and snow. I was not always a fan of the STi v7 suspension on my WRX in very cold temps. The struts became quite stiff when very cold. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTCanada Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 2 weeks... woo hoo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodgeee Posted November 11, 2004 Author Share Posted November 11, 2004 On the install you only need one jack to do it. I put the entire vehicle on jack stands and removed all the tires. On the front, you just need to take two little bolts off that attach to the strut, the brake line and the ABS line going to the caliper, from there there are two big bolts on the spindle. Once off, the three bolts from up top just drop the whole assembly down. Now I hope I don't have to explain how to change a spring on a strut or shock, it is really easy, especially if you have a good spring compressor like I do that fits on a vice, and only one bolt to contend with. The back is so freakin easy. One big bolt on the bottom, and two up top in the trunk. In the trunk you have to remove 9 pop tabs, and two of the net hangers just turn 90 degrees and they pull right out, then swing the trunk liner out of the way, don't worry about taking the last pop tabs out that are behind the seat, hard to get to, and just as easy to swing the panel out of the way. Then two bolts on each shock, and they just fall right out. You need the jack to lift up on the bottom of the shock just a hair to pull the bolt out real easy, and same putting the bolt back in. This was the hardest bolt, and even took my 250lb air ratchet about 1 minute per side to break the bolt free. The instructions are written in Japanees, but just make sure you put the stuff back together the same way it came out, so look at the shock and the strut before you pull them apart, it is self explainitory, and the springs only can go on one way weather it is front or back when putting the parts back together. All the torque values are written on the diagrams in the instructions with lines pointing to the bolts, so with the instructions it is still self explainitory. You could do this job with a breaker bar, but honestly I would not recommend it without a good impact/torque air wrench. I was going to post pics, but the others guys car is silver just like mine, so there is no difference in the look. I measured the fender to the ground, and got a 1" drop all around, I will wait two weeks to settle then get it aligned, even though it feels completely fine, I want to make sure it is square! I will let you know if it sinks any more! One last thing, on the other cars that I have lowered, they were 1.5" or lower, and the stock shocks leaked after about 6 months. The stock shocks on this car look much heavier duty than the all previous cars that I have lowered. The guide rods are real heafty, and the compression levels of these shocks are surprizingly strong, I think that these will hold up fine. Maybe in a year or so I will put upgraded ones in if they are available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodgeee Posted November 11, 2004 Author Share Posted November 11, 2004 [img]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/338000-338999/338801_19_full.jpg[/img] [img]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/338000-338999/338801_10_full.jpg[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTCanada Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 Myles, can you check your car and see what the drop was on your car? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 [quote name='fastgascar']The pictures post install were taken about 100 miles after. The car is now settled and the alignment is done. The guys @ the local meet that I go to have also said that it's now even lower. I have an even 1.5" gap from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender all the way around.[/QUOTE] I hope you are measuring from level ground, the shocks tend to "stick" a bit after you jack up the car and just leave it there.. so the car will need to be driven to let the shocks settle in.. for the corner balancers out there, they'll know what I mean. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 The rears sound like an old school muscle car :lol: Rob   IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 [quote name='hodgeee'] The back is so freakin easy. One big bolt on the bottom, and two up top in the trunk. In the trunk you have to remove 9 pop tabs, and two of the net hangers just turn 90 degrees and they pull right out, then swing the trunk liner out of the way, don't worry about taking the last pop tabs out that are behind the seat, hard to get to, and just as easy to swing the panel out of the way. Then two bolts on each shock, and they just fall right out. You need the jack to lift up on the bottom of the shock just a hair to pull the bolt out real easy, and same putting the bolt back in. This was the hardest bolt, and even took my 250lb air ratchet about 1 minute per side to break the bolt free. You could do this job with a breaker bar, but honestly I would not recommend it without a good impact/torque air wrench. [/QUOTE] During my install, I jacked up the car and took off the wheels, I placed the jackstands on the bottom of the strut and lowered the car until the holes matched up to put the bolt in. I didnt remove ANY of the interior panels except for the spare tire cover. Just peel back the liner, and you'll see the two 12 mm bolts. I have done the whole job without any air tools (I chose not to, since the nuts do take a beating from the impacts). A 2' iron pipe and a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 19mm short socket, and another 19mm closed wrench will break it free. Nice and easy.. put the ratchet on the nut side, and put the closed wreched on the bolt head.. lock the closed wrench in place so that it doesnt move on you (I laid mine against the lateral linkage somewhere).. place the 2' iron pipe on the end of the ratchet and lean your body weight.. you'll hear the locking nut go "POP" and "CRACK" a few times to break it free. And YES, this is the hardest bolt to take out, easy to put back in. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodgeee Posted November 12, 2004 Author Share Posted November 12, 2004 Jeez, took the hard route did you, man, I took my sweet time and a lunch break inbetween the fronts and backs, and didn't even break a sweat. Man I am glad I started investing in tools a couple years back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDubbs Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 I would probably go with a breaker bar on top to get it loose, just be careful when using an "extension" on any ratchet if thats the way you choose. No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 [quote name='CDubbs']I would probably go with a breaker bar on top to get it loose, just be careful when using an "extension" on any ratchet if thats the way you choose.[/QUOTE] On top of what?? Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B4_Maniac Posted November 13, 2004 Share Posted November 13, 2004 [quote name='gtguy']Explain further, Hodgee. Some have discussed the difficulties presented by the rear suspension setup, for DIYers. I believe Xenonk talked about needing two jacks for some reason. Is this the case. As far as drop, did you measure before and after? You can do fenderwell to ground, or fenderwell to wheel center, but both will give a measurement of precisely how much the springs drop the car. It's rare for STi stuff to be off spec, and while a 1/2" isn't significant in the grand scheme of things, it could matter as regards the ultimate longevity of the stock struts. On another note, it seems that speculation about a stiffer spring being a better match to the stock struts, resulting in better bump absorption might be true. Nice report, Hodgee, and keep the information coming. Kevin[/QUOTE] The problem with the rear suspension is that there isn't realy a good place to put the jack stands. We acutly got rid of the stands and just jacked it up on either side and locked the jacks into place. My HKS coilovers are about that low. I have about 800 miles on them and they just settled into the car. What he said about the camber bolt is true..realy easy hands set for a decent amount of negetive camber. B4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B4_Maniac Posted November 13, 2004 Share Posted November 13, 2004 [quote name='CDubbs']I would probably go with a breaker bar on top to get it loose, just be careful when using an "extension" on any ratchet if thats the way you choose.[/QUOTE] Two words for you.... "IMPACT WRENCH":D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted November 13, 2004 Share Posted November 13, 2004 [quote name='B4_Maniac']The problem with the rear suspension is that there isn't realy a good place to put the jack stands. B4[/QUOTE] what?? why not?! what you do is you jack the rear of the car from the rear differential. once the rear tires are off the ground, slide the jack stands under the jack points just under the side skirts (there's a notch cutout for the jack cradle to fit in place). Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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