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Just installed AVO Flat panel.....is this a rip off?


croll326

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I know this is a relatively old thread at this point, but you guys are saying that the AVO panel filter needs to be replaced every 20K miles or so. Taken directly from rallitek's website:

 

"AVO high-flow panel air filter is a direct replacement for the stock paper filter. Made from sturdy cotton fiber with a special dry film that allows for more air flow than stock with equal rates of engine protection. Thanks to it's high-tech design the AVO panel air filter is washable and will last the life of your car."

 

What's the deal?

 

I noticed that there is a version 2 for this filter now. Maybe the version one was not as long lasting?

2011 WRX Hatch currently. Looking for OXT or FXT for new daily to go with the WRX.
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what is the difference between V1 and V2

dont know, they only sell the version 2 now maybe the longevity is the difference cause rallitek says its for the lifetime of your car, which unless it starts to deteriorate, is what ill do

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I talked to Paul at AVOWorld today and asked him if it was lifetime or replace at 20k and he said, "yes to both questions"...

 

Basically, he compared it to K&N, which is also a "lifetime" filter. Properly taken care of it could last a very long time... On the other hand if you are driving in a very dusty area it may not last as long as other locations and you may just have to replace it after 20k miles and lots of cleanings... The last part of the equation is "lifetime", given that many people keep their cars for 3 years, that's the lifetime of their ownership of the car...

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Can anyone verify this? I have had one for 30k and clean it every now and again. I was uner the impression that this is a permanent filter...just needs cleaning. Like a K&N.

 

you can use some air pressure to clean out the filter but honestly it's easier to spend another $40 bucks get a new one and not have to worry about it.

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Basically, he compared it to K&N, which is also a "lifetime" filter. Properly taken care of it could last a very long time... On the other hand if you are driving in a very dusty area it may not last as long as other locations and you may just have to replace it after 20k miles and lots of cleanings... The last part of the equation is "lifetime", given that many people keep their cars for 3 years, that's the lifetime of their ownership of the car...

 

 

If a company is selling a 'lifetime' filter, they sure as heck BETTER not pull some crap as "We mean lifetime of OWNERSHIP of a car..." That's a crock. If they mean 3 years, they should say 3 years. Given "Many" People keep their cars for three years, would NOT be justification to seriously mislead customers with a 'lifetime' air filter. :(

SOLD | '06 spec.B - VF52/AVO/740cc/Up/Down | 238awhp | 50-80mph 3.1 seconds.
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  • 5 years later...

I ran my AVO for a couple years, with cleanings in between, but eventually it didn't look so hot after a good cleaning so I just resorted back to OEM paper at the dealership the next time I was in.

 

OEM filter = 25 bucks. AVO = 60 bucks+.

 

I just go with the OEM as I'm too old now to be washing out a re-usable filter that doens't do much except make a little more noise.

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I would keep the paper filter unless you're beyond the 300whp range. Here is a learning view from an 06 lgt with a stage 1 ots map and a k&n drop in filter... look at the arf trims...No other mods. Also notice how altitude and 91 octane handle the ots map. lots of flkc happening at high loads/rpm range.

 

Or if nothing else, avoid an oil type filter. guessing his maf was pretty dirty.

316955140_2006OTSstage1SpecBLV.jpg.8857c586cff73eb8531700c116031b81.jpg

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Those trims do not reflect a bad or dirty filter. Far too much variance across the sample. A filter is a constant. Knock is not unusual in OEM and OTS maps too (but there is far too much). More than anything that is a add for not running an OTS map.
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Those trims do not reflect a bad or dirty filter. Far too much variance across the sample. A filter is a constant. Knock is not unusual in OEM and OTS maps too (but there is far too much). More than anything that is a add for not running an OTS map.

 

Mike, very true. Meant it more as a precaution for watching out for cleaning the maf if using an oil based filter regularly.

Agreed about the ots maps. Both stage 1 and 2 ots maps always have high load/rpm flkc, in my experience in Utah.

I'll tune his car soon. Since the maf has been cleaned and paper filter back in. Want to pull another lv to see what affect it has had.

I was surprised the IAM was still at 1.00

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk now Free

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I have NEVER had a MAF get "oiled" from an oiled filter (that I oiled and installed). Been using oiled filters for over 30 years. People get in a hurry and dont follow proper cleaning/oiling procedures. The best way to go about it is to have 2. That way one is always properly prepped when you need it (store it in a zip lock style bag).

 

Yes it increases cost. But oiled filters tend to last longer than dry flow (in my experience).

 

Just playing devils advocate. Oiled filters are almost a must in high dust conditions (like desert racing).

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I appreciate your back and forth Mike :)

 

05 wagon I tuned a few weeks ago had a film of oil on the maf sensor. Really bad. My experience has been most people tend to over do it when applying the oil. Paper filter is easiest for most people IMO. I will second the desert racing and oil type filters as I have similar experience with my CRF450 ;), although I don't think most people are using their cars for that application.

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Like I said, over oiling in a hurry. Seen it. Clean it all the time too. I try to educate the customers while they are here and when I am re-oiling it for them.

 

If it works and is not broke dont fix it. $15 paper filter works just fine, is simple to change and when done on an interval gives you the opportunity to look over the rest of the engine bay at the same time. Good chance to check vacuum lines.

 

On a side note I installed a Purolator paper filter, reset the ecm and then logged it and pulled LV's. Darn thing ran lean at every range. Guess they flow that much better than stock.

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Here's the same car, with the stock map (not the ots stage 1) before the tune, with the k&n installed. the second is after installing an oem paper filter and stage 1 open source tune. No changes were made to the MAF scaling.

738476582_stock2006specbwithkndropinfilter.jpg.b3b760b3e0b793cf7b0c8b3859ea9257.jpg

2114844917_Stage12006specbwithoempaperfilter.jpg.5157b6a6917762eb82aa346778a30e8c.jpg

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Knock was present on the stock tune, which isn't surprising. That's the worst amount of lean afr trims that I've come across on a panel filter though. (No leaks either) The LV of the stock map was after 5 days of driving with it, so it didn't appear to be getting better.

 

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Every car is different. Every environment is different. Every gas stations fuel supplied is different (even at the same octane rating). Heck, the same pump will have differences in the fuel after each time the holding tank is filled.

 

All of these are reasons to get a professional tune and not stick with an OTS map.

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