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JL 10W0 sub installed...


CombatCQB

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Finally got around to getting a subwoofer. I got myself a JL 10W0 with an Alpine mono amp. The audio shop recommended a SoundGate LOCSUBA line out converter and it turned out to be good advice since it has adjustable gain control. I can adjust the gain through the glove box and really helps when I switch between diff. kinds of music.

 

I also found a nice ground point in the trunk. Just pull back the driver side trunk trim and you'll see the antenna amp with a bolt that's grounded to the frame.

 

I ended up using a rear facing truck box and wedged it between the rear deck and the trunk floor. It's a tight fit and the box won't budge after that. I'll still strap it down later, but it's working pretty well so far.

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The 10W0 rounds out the bass really well. So far, even with the pass thru closed, the bass is very noticable. I still have to open up the bass port on the rear deck and see if it makes a difference. This is my first time installing car audio so it's been a good learning experience. All in all, the project was about $300 for everything. ($100-10W0,$50-box,$50-amp,$100-wiring+Line out)
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I'm new at audio installs as well, but I'm sure that you should have the sub facing the rear if you have the passthrough closed. The sub has to be able to push air and if it's wedged against the wall, it won't be able to do that efficiently. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
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The rears seats are mostly just foam.. very (surprisingly) transparent. There are also line of sight holes down to the bottom cushion, which is also just foam. I see a bit better performance at 15-25Hz with the sub facing through and open passthrough, otherwise only 1-3dB drop. The passthrough cover is sheet metal however, I can imagine it doing "bad things" with a woofer 1" behind it. Having the pass-through open looks like crap. Especially with leather. Perhaps if I'm bored enough one day, I'll clear out the metal and cover it with some cloth, so you can just have the armrest down, the passthrough closed, and yet acoustically transparent.
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It depends on the car for aiming the sub. Try it facing forward and test different frequencies and see how it sounds. For fun, maybe aim it towards the rear of the car and see how that affects things. In my last car I preferred to have my subs firing towards the rear, but it varies.
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in all of my cars so far (Olds Cutlass, Acura CL, Suby WRX) i've had better results with the subs facing the rear. i just put a 12" Diamond Audio in a ported box in the LGT, and it really sounds good. i'll take pics soon and put them up. i'd try shooting the subs rear for now and seeing how that sounds.
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Subs are not directional like speakers, as long as your X-over is adjusted correctly (below 80 HZ). They pressurize the interior, so direction is not critical regarding focusing the bass. What is important is loading the woofer properly.....this is why facing rear sounds the best...it loads the bass off the solid rear. Bass frequencies have long wavelengths, so position in the car is more important than direction. It is possible to cancel out the bass, depending on frequency and position. Try facing it backwards and forwards and also change the phase (reverse positive and negative on the woofer connection) - this may help as well. Always listen from the driver's seat, and make adjustments accordingly.....you could move two feet over and have no bass at all so what sounds good from the trunk doesn't sound the best from behind the wheel. It would help to have someone help you in 'tuning' the sub....one person listening while the other tweaks the settings and position.
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