skiWA Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Nevermind... I tried the 20 click method instead of the wires and it worked. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonomia3 Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 The 20 click works fine, just make sure you turn the ignition to "ON" not "ACC" like some posters said. You have to go two positions to "ON" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiWA Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I did it while it was running and that worked. You just have to turn the car off then on again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Just did this in about 3 minutes while at work. Did it by moving seat as far back and tilted up as possible from the front driver's door. Found the right connector - white to white closest to the driver's door - fiddled with it a bit to work out how to unplug them and then simply unplugged them. Drove around in the parking lot, up to about 20mph and no chimes!!!! As I drive on my own a lot of the time I was only really interested in the driver's seat. Confirming this works for 09 OB! Did the DRL yesterday and this today - my 2 biggest bugbears gone! Now need to get a stage 1 tune done in the next few months . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teK-- Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Can anyone who has the workshop manual please check what the harness # is called? I have a RHD and the only harness that sounds remotely correct (R192, description "seat buzzer") appears to be in a different location. If sitting in a LHD car, the workshop manual desribes the harness to be under the passenger seat and forward of all the airbag connectors, close to the door side of the seat. This diagram does not show the harness to be in a different location even for RHDs hence the confusion. The harness described in the OP according to my diagram is black coloured, under LHD driver's seat, close to door side and labelled as R09 "power seat". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebird Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Tried unplugging white connectors as described. Still chimes, and dash light still on. Is my car possessed ? Has this not worked for anyone else, or just lucky me ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zarooo Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 just did this. swooooot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lousypirate Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 i opted for the quick fix for the passenger side. i keep an extra seat belt buckle in the center console (thanks to the nearest u-pull-it junkyard as a donation after cutting the belt itself and pulling the buckle off ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Ned Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I can confirm that the 20-click trick works for 2010 Legacies as well. Just did it to my new ride and it took. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadud2000 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 I have tried both mehtods but when i unplugged the sensor under the seat. When i got it back from the dealership after having it serviced, i found they had gone in and reconnected the drivers and passenger seat sensors.  I was then told by the dealership manager that if you are to disconnect the alarm and have an accident that it can also not only void your new car warranty that it can also void any insurance you have on the car. this sounds like a load of BS to me. anyone else been told this at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Stick with the 20 click method. It was put there by the factory.... and will not void the warranty. If it stops working change your battery... works like a charm again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTride05 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Just did this mothed and it took no more then 5 mins and that includes unbolting the 2 front bolts and putting them back in. Thanks this is way better then the ghetto 20 clicks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdadi Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 The important thing to have success on the 20 clicks method in the first try is "WAIT FOR THE FIRST SEATBELL BEEPS", then start the 20 clicks process. It has to be real click process in seatbell - not just keep pressing the seatbelt button and push in and pull out the buckle 20 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Just did this mothed and it took no more then 5 mins and that includes unbolting the 2 front bolts and putting them back in. Thanks this is way better then the ghetto 20 clicks. Not sure how the 20 click method is "GHETTO." It was put in by Subaru to give us the option of no chime. I've been using it for years since the car was brand new. Only time it stopped working was when the battery got old. Changed out the battery and started working again the same day. Never had a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 20- click method does not work for nothing for me. Moved the seat all the way forward and up and the Navi box was in the way of my arm so I moved the seat back some and I was able to feel it from the front. Had my finger on the release for that clip but didn't have the leverage to disconnect it.. was able to hit it with a pair of small need nose pliers and NO MORE CHIME! I'm so relieved. Sucks I'll still have to remind my one buddy to buckle his damn belt because somehow the sound goes in one ear and out the other for him every time he rides with me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppley Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 whoever figured this out I want to thank you. That relentless ding ding ding has drove me nuts since i bought the car. There was just too many wires down there so i didnt mess with it. But i read this thread ran outside and i acutally felt relief. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mineENGR Posted June 12, 2010 Share Posted June 12, 2010 wicked, going to do this method first. Cant beat a physical mod over software that can be reset Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dockratt Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 I've used the junk yard method..cut out the seat belt on a old honda or other wreck grind clip 2 fit sub. then click it n the recevier done w chimes and lite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan2153 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 tried the click method and opening up the case and sliding the switch. click method didn't work couldn't buckle my belt after opening up the case and sliding the switch this is by far the easiest and most reliable solution, plus you can always plug it right back in... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordchilly Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Just finished welding my seat bracket back together. it snapped (IDK how). After I bolted everything up....realized there was a thread about the seatbelt. Unbolted the seat again and unplugged the wire and done...no more chime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordchilly Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Now 3 days later. My seatbelt chime is dinging but I don't see a seatbelt light. I put my seatbelt on and it is still dinging. Going to plug it back in to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoscowLegacy Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Hello everyone, I am new to the forum but have been a lurker for some time. This forum, like many other enthusaist forums, are a wealth of knowledge and I specifically came here to rid of the damn seatbelt chime. Problem solved but there still one question I have yet to find the answer to in this thread and any other regarding the seatbelt chimes:  How do I disconnect the seat belt chime on the passenger side? Is it the same way as the driver side? And does it effect anything to do so, such as the air bag, etc. Or it is just as simple as ridding of the chime? Thank you Paul:spin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoscowLegacy Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 tried the click method and opening up the case and sliding the switch. click method didn't work couldn't buckle my belt after opening up the case and sliding the switch this is by far the easiest and most reliable solution, plus you can always plug it right back in... Thanks!  I had run into the very same problem. I celebrated too soon haha But then even when I put the switch back to its orignal position the chim stopped and I thought that was odd, but once I took the car for a ride and turned it off and came back to it later the chime was back.  Therefore, I did the under the seat disconnect method and it worked just fine. No blinking seatbelt warning light on the dash and no more chime, thank God! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBACHEVROMAN Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 well, looks like ill be trying this method..the clicking method is safer, but mysteriously its back on?? didnt service the car or disconnect battery..it just reset itself, it has been really cold here, down into single digits..was told it could be the cold?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texan Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 For me, I did the 20 click in 30 second method. I am a little apprehensive about unplugging stuff without knowing 100% that it will not affect airbag or other safety equipment operation. I may tear out the dash one day and annihilate the little speaker. For now, the click method works, and it is Subaru 'approved'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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