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Final: Disable Seat Belt Chime.


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Thanks for the tip.....unplugged the connector on my 07 Outback Ltd......easy to do..BUT I did remove the front bolts/loosened the rears for easy access. Nice mod and can easily be put back together. I did NOT like the chime.

 

Thanks again...... :)

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in most VW's with a seatbelt chime there is what looks like a relay with a speaker on the end plugged in under the dash with the other relays.

 

Can someone with access to the wiring diagram find the source of the chime and just yank it? I don't have a legacy book yet... but the sound is definitely coming from around the steering column.

 

forgot pic

http://i1.ebayimg.com/01/i/07/3e/7d/27_2.JPG

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So I got 2 ideas, one well it works on occasion and the other, I need some help from you guys.

 

Solution #1: turn your radio up loud, it seems to drown out the chirping of the seatbelt. :lol:

 

Solution #2: Does anyone know how to take apart the seatbelt buckle or have the schematics on doing so? If that's the case why not do that to both the passenger side and drivers side, remove the wire connected in there and just wedge a paperclip or something permanent in there to fool the connection that the seatbelt is always connected?

 

If anyone has the diagrams on how to take apart the buckle and wants to send them to me, I do have a fair amount of free time and would be willing to make an attempt on it.

 

Thanks.

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Wow, it actually was in the service manual:

 

3. CUTOFF FUNCTION

The warning given after 6 seconds since the ignition switch is turned ON, and the warning function that activates when the seat belt is unfastened while driving can be optionally cut off. The cutoff function is common for both the driver’s seat and passenger’s seat, and can be set with the driver’s seat buckle switch.

Temporary (TEMP) cutoff

1) How to cut: Repeat fastening and unfastening the driver’s seat belt for 3 times within 6 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON. (The setting is changed for both the driver’s seat and passenger’s seat.)

2) Setting lasts: While the ignition switch is turned ON until it is turned OFF. (The cutoff function is canceled when the ignition switch is once turned OFF.)

 

Permanent cutoff

1) How to cut: Repeat fastening and unfastening the driver’s seat belt for 20 times within 30 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON. Enabling and disabling cutting is done with the same operation.

(The setting is changed for both the driver’s seat and passenger’s seat.)

 

2) Setting lasts: Until the microprocessor is reset*.

 

The cutoff function is reset when the battery is removed (battery positive terminal disconnected) or when the body integrated unit is removed. The cutting function may also be reset when the engine is cranked with low battery voltage.

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ok seriously. i tried to re-do my seatbelt chime disable after disconecting the battery, and the 20 times thing didnt work for some reason. i was already mad after a meeting at work so i got pissed enough to get outta my car and look under the seat.

 

well after 2 minutes of trying to fit my hand in there i yelled and the plug slid off like butter :lol:

 

"ding..ding..ding..di....." bwahahahaha!

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RIP Chime. No need to unbolt the seat. I found it easier to disconnect from the back seat with the front seat raised and the backrest forward.

 

I disconnected it from the back as well and it was MUCH easier to access. Save yourself the time from unbolting the front and just disconnect from rear.

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Guys, I posted this to another 'chime' thread, but no response ...

 

I simply unplugged a connector from a little box under the dash

called "Seatbelt Timer"; takes about 5 sec. Is there anything

wrong with this ? Of course, it disables ALL chimes, not just the

seatbelt one. (This is a MY97 Legacy OB).

 

Also, I asked a Subaru dealer, and he said it can be programmed

through the OBD in newer models (this was a year or two ago).

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guys, I posted this to another 'chime' thread, but no response ...

 

I simply unplugged a connector from a little box under the dash

called "Seatbelt Timer"; takes about 5 sec. Is there anything

wrong with this ? Of course, it disables ALL chimes, not just the

seatbelt one. (This is a MY97 Legacy OB).

 

Also, I asked a Subaru dealer, and he said it can be programmed

through the OBD in newer models (this was a year or two ago).

 

Hmmmm curious too..

 

 

Flavio Zanetti

Boston, MA

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  • 2 weeks later...
Got it from the back and it was so easy! I assume the power seats are harder to maneuver under, but lift and slide the manual seat and it's right in front of you (once you're upside down in the back seat). Thanks!
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Thank you for posting this. I am absolutely sick of the stupid seat belt chime! Sit somewhere and wait on someone - ding ding ding. Enough already. I have disabled with 20 click method twice before and can't seem to do it anymore. This works and took less than 30 seconds. (power seat - done from front without removing bolts)
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Confused here:

 

Does this plug method that you speak of (plug under the seat) disable the chime for only driver or BOTH driver and passenger???

 

I ask because the tech nanual says the two seats are commonly controlled when it described the 20 click method BUT someone else said there are separate plugs, one under driver's seat for only seat belt and one under passenger seat for seat belt and airbag (which shouldn't be touched) ...

 

All I care about is disabling the passenger seat chime. Darn thing goes off every time I bring groceries home... for the ENTIRE trip home... I guess it's going on the weight of the groceries, but come on man, my groceries aren't that freakin heavy!!! It's TOO sensitive!

 

LOU

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anybody with the sub under the driver's seat have any problems? i have a sub under my seat, and it makes it a lot harder to access. just curious :)

 

Hey Magic, thank you for the tip! I just disconnected mine. That chime was ridiculous.

 

djkxgo0k: I also have that little sub under my seat and it definitely makes it harder. I was able to see under the seat with a flashlight and could have probably gotten to the connection, but I wanted to be 100% sure that I was disconnecting the right set of wires. So I removed the seat. Makes it much easier. 14mm socket wrench will get it done.

 

For anybody that’s doing this on a 2007: The connector colors in the pictures (from page 1) don’t exactly match what you’ll see under the seat. There’s yellow on yellow and a couple of white on white connectors in the 07. But like Magic says, disconnect the white on white closest to the door and you should be good.

 

I disconnected the airbag on the Honda I used to own to get the seat out. Even though I reconnected them properly, the airbags were disabled and I had to have the dealer reset them. Pain in the ass.

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djkxgo0k: I also have that little sub under my seat and it definitely makes it harder. I was able to see under the seat with a flashlight and could have probably gotten to the connection, but I wanted to be 100% sure that I was disconnecting the right set of wires. So I removed the seat. Makes it much easier. 14mm socket wrench will get it done.

 

u removed the entire seat? wow..

i managed to disable my chime after moving my seat all the way forward, up, and the top tilted all the way forward as well. and i had to remove the sub, the disconnecting part wasn't difficult, it was rescrewing the damn bolt back in after the d/c. :lol:

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u removed the entire seat? wow..

i managed to disable my chime after moving my seat all the way forward, up, and the top tilted all the way forward as well. and i had to remove the sub, the disconnecting part wasn't difficult, it was rescrewing the damn bolt back in after the d/c. :lol:

 

Yeah, I definitely didn't need to remove all 4 bolts, but I noticed all kinds of crap under the seat (mainly Burger King french fries:eek:) so I took the opportunity to do a little vacuuming. Made that part easier to do.

 

I hear you on putting those bolts back in. I’ve done that with other cars before with no problems, but most of my time on doing this was rescrewing them in. Don’t want to cross-thread 'em.

 

Still way worth it. That chime was out of control.

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