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Fuel Pump Install


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My walbro 260lph pump is know installed. The install is fairly simple, just a pain when you have to modify the housing to fit the bigger pump. You can definetely hear the new pump when priming and first starting.

 

:lol:

I'll probably get a ban or at least a stern warning for this, but...I fail to see what's laughable other than your apparent lack of reading skills and respect for other members. If you look at the above quote (which was posted immediately before my post) you will realize who I was asking. I'm well aware that the OP did NOT modify his pump assembly.

 

It's a shame how certain moderators on this site like to give people crap instead of being helpful to the community. Thanks Robert!

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I think rao is laughing because of the difficulty involved in modifying the housing. TDC explains in detail how to do it here:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38929

 

As a moderator, he probably should have just let you know instead of posting a laugh. That's for the regular members to make fun of eath other.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Installed the pltek/walbro unit last night; was pretty simple. I waited until my low fuel light was on, removed the fuel pump fuse, started my engine until it stalled, cranked the ignition for 5 more seconds, disconnected the neg terminal off my battery, then followed LUKEGT03's instructions. Spillage was kept to a minimum. Thanks for the write up, Luke.
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cranked the ignition for 5 more seconds, Spillage was kept to a minimum..

Yeah, wish I would have added that step as I think it might have helped relieve the last bit of pressure in the system. I tried lifting the pump from the tank slightly before removeing the three lines, but one of them was still pressurized. Oh well, over and done with.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

^+1 I just did this yesterday. Starting the car with the fuel pump fuse, then cranking the engine over for a few seconds resulted in no pressure in the lines. I used an old ice cream container instead of rags as quite a bit of fuel came out of the pump. It also allows you to pour the gas back in if you like (if the container is clean). I would also use something to cover the molex receptacle on the pumps to ensure no gas gets in there before you plug it back in.

 

No nests, just some rust around there.

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  • 1 month later...
If you could install a wheel for him to run on, then take a power output onto the main drive shaft, then a mouse would add hp, or would that be mp :confused:

Yeah, you and your theoretical mp numbers. All that matters to the big boys is mp at the wheels!:lol:

ignore him, he'll go away.
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  • 4 weeks later...
Fuel pump install isnt that bad if u have the right tools. After removing/install my AVO, Walbro, and OEM fuel pump 20 times I know it like the back of my hand. The difference about the AVO and Walbro fuel pump is that the AVO comes with a new fuel filter that actually fits, plus it has clips that snap in and hold in the assembly housing. The AVO is also quieter and seems like a much mure quality peice.
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  • 4 weeks later...
I've done search after search, and have yet to see a definitive answer or picture. I followed a tdc writeup on here and modified my fp housing by grinding out the ribs inside and adding a walboro with the terminals modified and stock sock, put everything back together (done it twice now double checking all the o-rings which were new) and am still experiencing the pressure loss manifested by a need to prime for 1-2 sec. before starting. Do I need to grind off more than the ribs on the housing? This is maddening. Could it be a bad check valve in the fuel pump itself? In one of these myriad threads I remember reading that grinding off the ribs is only "semi-divulging" the "SECRET". Any documented solution with pics for the do it yourselfer? Prettttttty pleeeeeeeeeeeease?:spin:
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