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HELP! AP v2 car wont start!


integroid

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I received the AP v2 last week and installed stage 1 no problem at all. Last night I went and installed an up pipe and downpipe. That went well. Started the car and it was fine. Turned motor off and went to flash ecu with stage 2 map. During the install, the AP just turned off and then I noticed an ER HC error where my odometer was. Turned ignition off and try and again. Car will not start and I still have the ER HC error. Uplug battery for a few hours and try again....Same thing. The AP will power up if the car is not turned on but as soon as you turn the ignition on, the AP goes dead. ANyone have any ideas? I have tried everything with every combination of ways of trying to get the AP to stay powered up when the ignition is on. T
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Yes I did and I think Cobb should fix this mess and not me. My car is stuck in another state right now parked in front of the Cobb Tuning of the VW/Audi world. Nice thing about it is I got to take a Stage 3 A4 home with me:) Bad thing is it rides like a race car.

 

I was going to call Cobb Tuesday morning but just seeing if anyone else has had this problem.

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I received the AP v2 last week and installed stage 1 no problem at all. Last night I went and installed an up pipe and downpipe. That went well. Started the car and it was fine. Turned motor off and went to flash ecu with stage 2 map. During the install, the AP just turned off and then I noticed an ER HC error where my odometer was. Turned ignition off and try and again. Car will not start and I still have the ER HC error. Uplug battery for a few hours and try again....Same thing. The AP will power up if the car is not turned on but as soon as you turn the ignition on, the AP goes dead. ANyone have any ideas? I have tried everything with every combination of ways of trying to get the AP to stay powered up when the ignition is on. T

 

 

thats your problem right there..... if you woulda known that if you dont turn off the key the ecu wont reboot and take the new settings(or lack thereof) and you can just start flashing again...

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thats your problem right there..... if you woulda known that if you dont turn off the key the ecu wont reboot and take the new settings(or lack thereof) and you can just start flashing again...

 

If you would have read right before it, it states that the AP just shut off and would not power up. What else was I suppose to do? Car wouldn't crank over, AP would not turn on, car was dead.....So I turned ignition off. Seemed like the most logical thing to do.

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If you would have read right before it, it states that the AP just shut off and would not power up. What else was I suppose to do? Car wouldn't crank over, AP would not turn on, car was dead.....So I turned ignition off. Seemed like the most logical thing to do.

 

ya hindsight is 20/20.... same thing happened to me, but instead i was shown a "flash complete turn off ignition to finish" but i did not notice one of the memory blocks that was not normally written to did change and it ended up being the bootstrap which initiated communications....:( if only i had just reflashed without turning of the key all would have been well....

 

 

any device power failure short of the car battery going out you can just restart the flash process, as long as you dont turn off the key the ecu keeps the previous contents.

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You did unplug the green TEST connector after the flash right? If you did then the ECU is fried. But hey, so is mine.. It will cost you about $800 if Cobb can't fix it.

 

So was your ECU is fried? Was the symptom that the car wouldn't start or that you couldn't change the maps?

 

I accidently forgot to unplug the test connector after flashing and started up the car. It works but it seems like I can't uninstall or run the real time map as the car can't identify the map.

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So was your ECU is fried? Was the symptom that the car wouldn't start or that you couldn't change the maps?

 

I accidently forgot to unplug the test connector after flashing and started up the car. It works but it seems like I can't uninstall or run the real time map as the car can't identify the map.

 

 

I have no idea what is wrong with my ecu. I am calling cobb tomorrow. From what I have read and have been told, my ecu will need a benchflash at the very least. The car won't start, the ap will not turn on when the ignition is on, and I have a ER HC error where the odometer reads. Basically my AP just stopped working in the middle of a change of maps. After it stopped working, I got the ER HC error and nothing works anymore.

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I am so frustrated with cobb.....It has been hell trying to get someone on the phone and when I finally do, I get cut off.....I have been on hold for well over two hours with them today. They keep trying to tell me it is from low battery voltage but we left a chrager on it overnight. I guess we will ahve to wait and see what the resolution is.
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Parts would cost about $40 to make one. I have the diagram from Colby.

 

fortunately the ecu does have a data port internally that bypasses any comms hadshaking/bootstraps etc... and allows for mass erasing/re-writing.... but yes you need some serious bench hardware for that...
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Could you please share that diagram? If a couple of us built these devices we might be able to help out fellow LGTers in case of emergency. There seems to be enough EE talented people on this board to make that work.

 

-Ryan

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Finally! I just got off witht hem again and they want me to send in the ECU and AP. I even made my friend go back out to my car with a jump box and it still would not turn over. They will have it tomorrow and hopefully have an answer by the end of week.
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I even made my friend go back out to my car with a jump box and it still would not turn over.

 

thats because there is no communication on the Car Area Network.... particularly with the immobilizer..... or the clutch/neutral switch input is missing from the ecu.... mine was BACKWARDS:lol:

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Just so everyone's aware, we're actively working with integroid on this issue. Its been difficult and I'm sure frustrating for him (and us) considering he's not with his car right now so all troubleshooting has to be passed along to someone else and we're trying to go off of what he's being told by the people with his car or can remember from the original experience. Nonetheless, we can get it sorted out.

 

The one component that I am interested in is the fact that it's being reported the new AccessPORT powers down only when the key is turned to the 'ON' position. Considering the OBD2 pins we use to power the AccessPORT are the constant 12V+ and GND, that have connectivity even with the ignition OFF, is quite puzzling. Also the fact that the car does not "turn over" which when our techs described the situation to me sounds like a battery issue. Even without the ECU installed in the vehicle, the starter motor will engage and turn over the engine. It won't start, but the engine will turn over. That, coupled with the strange power off situation of the AccessPORT with the key in the ON position seemed to indicate low battery.

 

Nonetheless, we'll inspect everything here and determine the root of the situation. Obviously this is an oddity, but we want to get to the bottom of it and get integroid on the road enjoying his AccessPORT-equipped LGT!

 

Cheers,

Trey @ COBB

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the issue with not turning over is strange.... with my bad flash the car would not turn over for anything, then after having my ecu benchflashed, the car would only not start because it had been sitting for two weeks with the XM radio on :lol: but with a jump and having the car in gear (because of borked neutral/clutch interlock switch) it started up....
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Thanks Trey (or maybe Pooh) for chiming in. It was very frustrating today trying to talk to someone and when I finally got someone, I would either get cut off or told to go try something else. Then trying to call back was hell since the phone line was constantly busy. I honestly spent at least 5-6 hours on the phone trying to call in or on hold today. I am glad the ecu and AP is on its way out to you. It has been frustrating but I still think you have a great product. I am sure it will be all worth it once all the kinks are worked out of it.
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Here you go. Courtesy of Tactrix and Colby Boles.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/zuczek/Diagram.jpg

 

 

You can use this

 

www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=28024

 

or

 

www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?CatID=166&SubCatID=183&SubSubCatID=0&ProductID=409

 

(Located in Calgary, Canada. Cheaper Canadian shipping)

 

for the USB-Serial chip

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