Deer Killer Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 I'm still unsure about where that front center jack point. Does anyone have pics??+1 Vaction pictures are very ambiguous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 :raisedead: rear (bad pic, but it's the differential cover - use a towel to keep from scratching it up): http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/rearjackpoint.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 put a jack under each lift point to raise the car up enough to place jackstands under the normal jack points along the side of the car (two in front, two in the rear). Make sure to place an extra stand or the jack itself in another area for safety - as the Mid-A guys can attest, Rallispec's car slipped off one well-placed stand in my garage due to the torque needed to loosen the rear strut bolt - luckily, I left the jack just under the diff (not bearing any weight) as a safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 :raisedead: front: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/frontjackpoint.jpg Ok I've used this jack point a few times, but no more I think. I used to think that it was mounted on some bushings, because the whole thing bends. But it's not. I may have permanently deformed it. This disturbs me. There's gotta be a better place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 That is the jacking point officially endorsed by Subaru in their service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 That is the jacking point officially endorsed by Subaru in their service manual.I've read the manual the picture is _quite_ unclear. That's not even part of the subframe, it's just a brace for the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 FYI now I hear a thunk from shifting into 1st gear, not sure where this is coming from. I swear I first heard it after a not-to-be-named dealership had some clutch smoking "fun" in my Stage 2 LGT, but it could be just from a slight shift in the position of the transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 There is another cross member further towards the front of the car, between the A arms and just to the rear of the engine shrouding, that you might want to try for jacking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euclid Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 There is another cross member further towards the front of the car, between the A arms and just to the rear of the engine shrouding, that you might want to try for jacking. that's what I use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 Page NT-4 of the factory service manual (Notes section) clearly shows the front crossmember as a jacking point and doesn't say anything about this transmission crossmember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elej Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 :raisedead: front: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/frontjackpoint.jpg rear (bad pic, but it's the differential cover - use a towel to keep from scratching it up): Okay, so if this point was used for jacking and it has deformed slightly, is that a really bad thing? As in should be replaced or checked out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 That's the transmission crossmember and it should not be used for jacking IMO... The front jack point is right BEHIND the oilpan, but I can't get to it with my jack so I just jack up the car on the framerail that is INSIDE of the stock jack point (by inside I mean closer to the the center of the car than the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elej Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 So… speaking purely in the hypothetical, if someone accidentally jacked the vehicle from the transmission crossmember before realizing that it was not the jack point as illustrated…Are we talking vital irreversible damage? Or would the theoretical mild indentation of the transmission crossmember be nothing to worry about? Again, purely hypothetical… (note to self: think, search, work on car, post > work on car, think, search, post) Also, can someone please post actual pics of where you put jackstands front & rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Page NT-4 of the factory service manual (Notes section) clearly shows the front crossmember as a jacking point and doesn't say anything about this transmission crossmember. I would say the diagram is ambiguous. But it appears to show the cross member directly forward of the Y in the exhaust, which would be the transmission cross member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 I would say the diagram is ambiguous. But it appears to show the cross member directly forward of the Y in the exhaust, which would be the transmission cross member. That's the rear differential, not the transmission cross-member.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 well, obviously my pic is dead wrong. I totally forgot about this post but upon jacking from that point recently, we quickly realized the ambiguous pics are not > common sense. The jack point in the service manual seems to imply the h-brace area, which isn't a really hard point either. We've jacked from the suspension pickup points as a safer choice....anybody care to clarify with a picture where the factory jack point is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincedog3 Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 According to the 2006 Legacy/Outback manual there are the front and rear jack up points under the door sills. Page 9-7. Come to think of it, I think my WRX was raised on a lift using the sill points too. For your car audio/video needs:D Audio Crafters IS it. In Pasadena Ca. Arthur rules. www.audio-crafters.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 According to the 2006 Legacy/Outback manual there are the front and rear jack up points under the door sills. Page 9-7. Come to think of it, I think my WRX was raised on a lift using the sill points too. That's what I have used for my 05 and now 06 LGT's (rear points)....next time it's up I'll take pics....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrydog Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 According to the 2006 Legacy/Outback manual there are the front and rear jack up points under the door sills. Page 9-7. Come to think of it, I think my WRX was raised on a lift using the sill points too. At the dealer, or any garage for that matter, when the car is raised on a lift, they always use the frame rails on the underbody. Unfortunately, this seems to tear up the rubber undercoating, which bothers me. Maybe it's not a big deal but I figure Subaru wouldn't put the undercoating there if it wasn't needed. Has this happened to anyone else? Should they be using these points to lift the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 OK, so after reading all this, I'm STILL not sure where to put the jack stands. I am trying to paint my calipers, and would like to do two at a time, so where do you jack from and where do you set it down on the jack stands?? My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 set the stands on the hard points on the sides front and rear. you can use the rear diff to raise the rear and the service manual show a lift point near the transmission mount up front (use at your own risk!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 The real front lift point is hidden by the end of the under cover. If you put the jack over the rear undercover bolt you are in the right place. I put in a new transmission cross brace after using the "other" point Patagonian.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 It would be cool if someone did a walk through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMull123 Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 I'm gettin to need to change my oil and don't wanna pay the dealer to do it again. I haven't been under my car cuz I haven't been able to find the jack points, but if I were to just jack up the back, could I still drain my oil? Is the plug in the back of the pan? I ask cuz I only have a jack and 2 stands, so it would be a little unstable to put it all up in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 I'm gettin to need to change my oil and don't wanna pay the dealer to do it again. I haven't been under my car cuz I haven't been able to find the jack points, but if I were to just jack up the back, could I still drain my oil? Is the plug in the back of the pan? I ask cuz I only have a jack and 2 stands, so it would be a little unstable to put it all up in the air. To change the oil, you only need to jack up the front passenger side a little as if you were going to change the front passenger side tire (unless you want to get a creeper underneath). Look in the manual in the tire changing section and it'll show where the jack point is. It's at the body seam behind the tire. I think the manual covers an oil change pretty well. The drain is on the driver side of the pan and the filter is covered by a plastic swing-away cover held in place by five or six plastic anchor screws. Remember to use a new crush washer for the drain plug. Since you have a pair of jackstands, you can rotate your own tires as well since Subaru recommends a same side front-to-back rotation rather than the rear-to-front and then front to opposing rear like 2WD vehicles. Love it. It's the least messy I've gotten in awhile changing the oil on a vehicle. Experience is something you don't get until right after you needed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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