Joon525 Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 The real front lift point is hidden by the end of the under cover. If you put the jack over the rear undercover bolt you are in the right place. I put in a new transmission cross brace after using the "other" point Patagonian.. I believe this is what Deer Killer is talking about. In my attached pictures I think my undercover is missing the bolt that secures it to the cross member so just imagine it's there. I can upload pictures from the manual showing what the crossmember looks like in the diagrams. If I remember correctly there's even a part attached to it literally called "jacking plate". On to the pics.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Thanks for the photos. Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Thanks! Very useful pics. Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joon525 Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Thanks for the photos. Much appreciated. Thanks! Very useful pics. No problem guys, I might start a new thread later with more pictures of the diagrams from the shop manual (it'll have a better thread subject too so it can turn up in search results more often). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elej Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 just searching old threads... thanks for finally clarifying the real jack point with pics. anyone care to clarify where they place jackstands after lifting? i've read "hard points", "suspension pick-up points," "interior frame rails," and "factory spare tire jack points." Which is the safest, strongest, and least likely to cause any damage to the undercarriage, etc.? pics please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyd2005 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 These are great pictures. They helped me figure out where to jack the car. However, my car is slightly lowered. My 2 ton Craftsman racing jack could not reach the front jack point even with the handle all the way on the ground. I have to either put the car on ramps first or jack one side first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhsa Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 that's what i do. if i'm jacking up the entire car, i do the rear first, then front. if i'm doing just the front, i lift the front side and place some 2x4s under one tire and jack up the front point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joon525 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 These are great pictures. They helped me figure out where to jack the car. However, my car is slightly lowered. My 2 ton Craftsman racing jack could not reach the front jack point even with the handle all the way on the ground. I have to either put the car on ramps first or jack one side first. If you notice in my pictures, there's a piece of wood under one of the tires in the shot. If I didn't drive up on that my Craftsman jack would never fit under there either. Just drive up some planks of wood and you'll be fine. Takata make a small set of ramps (search for "Takata LDS" on Google or eBay) to drive up on just to get a jack under there but it's way more cost efficient to just use 2x4's or whatever size you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 anyone care to clarify where they place jackstands after lifting? i've read "hard points", "suspension pick-up points," "interior frame rails," and "factory spare tire jack points." Which is the safest, strongest, and least likely to cause any damage to the undercarriage, etc.? pics please. I put them where manual says to put the spare tire jack (common to many cars--my honda had a similar setup). I cut some pieces of wood to fit my jackstands to help decrease damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 to get the car up on jackstands at all 4 corners: 1) jack up at left side rear jacking point 2) position 1st jackstand under left side front jacking point 3) lower jack 4) jack up at right side rear jacking point 5) position 2nd jackstand under right side front jacking point 6) lower jack 7) jack up at rear differential 8) position 3rd and 4th jackstands at the rear sides jacking points 9) lower jack Reverse order to get the car off the jackstands. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 These are great pictures. They helped me figure out where to jack the car. However, my car is slightly lowered. My 2 ton Craftsman racing jack could not reach the front jack point even with the handle all the way on the ground. I have to either put the car on ramps first or jack one side first. Drive your car up on some 2x4s. I have the 1.5 ton variant of the craftman racing jack...I can hit the front jack point with ease. Actually...I have 2x6s...didn't want to skimp for the tire width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Drive your car up on some 2x4s. I have the 1.5 ton variant of the craftman racing jack...I can hit the front jack point with ease. Actually...I have 2x6s...didn't want to skimp for the tire width. heh, I use 2x10s for building a "bridge" across the corner balance scales It's much easier than just building 4 ramps for each corner Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 to get the car up on jackstands at all 4 corners: 1) jack up at left side rear jacking point 2) position 1st jackstand under left side front jacking point 3) lower jack 4) jack up at right side rear jacking point 5) position 2nd jackstand under right side front jacking point 6) lower jack 7) jack up at rear differential 8) position 3rd and 4th jackstands at the rear sides jacking points 9) lower jack Reverse order to get the car off the jackstands. Great info! Thanks Keefe. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elej Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 caramall2 & xenonk- thanks for the info. I went with driving the car up onto 2x6's so I could use my floor jack and reach the correct front jacking point. I then used the jack stands at the "spare tire jacking points" using custom cut blocks of wood to minimize damage at the pinch welds. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the security of the jackstand/block of wood setup, maybe I'll invest in jackstands designed for the pinchwelds. (anybody have experience with these?) any other ideas, keep posting. with enough good info., if I get motivated enough, maybe I'll come up with a walk-thru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 This has been the closest to a full write up that I can find. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2024 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 caramall2 & xenonk- thanks for the info. I went with driving the car up onto 2x6's so I could use my floor jack and reach the correct front jacking point. I then used the jack stands at the "spare tire jacking points" using custom cut blocks of wood to minimize damage at the pinch welds. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the security of the jackstand/block of wood setup, maybe I'll invest in jackstands designed for the pinchwelds. (anybody have experience with these?) any other ideas, keep posting. with enough good info., if I get motivated enough, maybe I'll come up with a walk-thru. Just get your standard set of jackstands...I have craftsman, and place them on the pinch points. They will hold. The jackstands have a groove in the center of them...so place the pinch point there. Don't worry about damage to the pinch point either...they will show signs of use, but whatever, they're pinch points, and they are under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANT Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Just a quick note...my car is lowered (Tein S Tech) and since it's hard to fit a jack under the car with it being so low, I keep a few pieces of 10"x2"x10" lumber around to drive the car on. You can usually find these pieces at Home Depot. Ask if they have a scrap pile, only costs about 2 dollars. And it gives you a good inch and a half lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 This is what I use...gets me three inches of additional clearance for doing oil changes and getting the floor jack under the car. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 My eyes! Too much bling in those wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 http://www.sp-power.com/catalog/images/TAKATA%20RAMP.jpg http://www.sp-power.com and http://www.rallysportdirect.com sells these @ $65/pair Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANT Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 $65!!!! I'll stick with my 2 dollar wood pieces. Or maybe I'll pay pillboy to make me some in his wood shop. *L* Actually, I have some drive on ramps I got at Sears, but since my cars have always been low, I built a 5 foot wooden extension so I can drive on nice and easy. If I can find some pics I'll post. Although that doesn't really help with where to jack the car up....hmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 $65!!!! I'll stick with my 2 dollar wood pieces. Or maybe I'll pay pillboy to make me some in his wood shop. *L* Actually, I have some drive on ramps I got at Sears, but since my cars have always been low, I built a 5 foot wooden extension so I can drive on nice and easy. If I can find some pics I'll post. Although that doesn't really help with where to jack the car up....hmmm.... yea, definitely wood, but some people are anal and want the "non redneck" approach.. most race clubs and car owners like Porsche and whoever like to have bling stuff.. but then again, most of them use Penske or AP-Pacing in-car air-jacks instead: http://www.wrightune.co.uk/raceprepairjacks.jpg http://www.apracing.com/car/airjacks/index.htm Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GINge Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 This is what I use...gets me three inches of additional clearance for doing oil changes and getting the floor jack under the car. Awesome, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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