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COBB DA STS installed!


Billy Dagwood

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No, it should be a little while. I usually take my car to the stealership for oil changes (hey, they keep sending me coupons!), but next time I'm going to take it to my family's mechanic and ask him to put them on while he's got it up on the lift. The way I figure .. it'll be a bunch easier than putting it up on the stands (gonna be snow on the ground soon), and he probably won't charge me for it anyways, so why not?
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the metal thing that you're supposed to trim out the top left corner if you wanted to make your shifts super short

 

There's a metal plate/surround piece in there with more material in the front left corner, but you may not have to trim anything. The only reason for trimming any material is because there's the possibility of the shift linkage hitting or rubbing against the bottom of that plate.

 

Trimming the material doesn't do anything except offer additional space for the shift linkage to move around.

 

FWIW, the same part on my specB didn't require any trimming. There's a few mm of clearance, so I didn't bother. Driving around town today was good... I didn't feel anything getting caught up with the linkage.

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There's a metal plate/surround piece in there with more material in the front left corner, but you may not have to trim anything. The only reason for trimming any material is because there's the possibility of the shift linkage hitting or rubbing against the bottom of that plate.

 

Trimming the material doesn't do anything except offer additional space for the shift linkage to move around.

 

FWIW, the same part on my specB didn't require any trimming. There's a few mm of clearance, so I didn't bother. Driving around town today was good... I didn't feel anything getting caught up with the linkage.

 

Right. If you trim it, you can set the bottom half of the cobb shifter even longer, thereby shortening your throws more. I probably would have tried the shortest throw possible (at least tried it), but I didn't want to dremel anything, so I just made the throw as short as I could without the linkage rubbing.

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that's the case with 1st gear.

i'm talking about 2nd and 4th.

 

Did you put the foam and rubber insulation piece back in? I noticed that the shifter hits the stiff rubber mat part of that in the back (2nd, 4th, and reverse). I had to pull it back out and trim some of it off. If you did put it back in, take it out, flip it over and feel in the back of it where 2nd and 4th are. You'll see what needs trimmed.

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yeah that's the thing I was worried about.. I'll figure something out tomorrow and post an update.

 

also, is it just me or has the shifting motion itself got much stiffer?

 

ie: when you shift from 1st to 2nd, while you pull the lever back into second, there's a more noticable

distinction when it's in 1st, then neutral, then 2nd? almost too distinct to the point of stiffness...

or is that just part of the traits of this short shifter?

 

on my friend's short shifter on his Golf R32, when you slightly pull out the lever from 1st to 2nd,

it's almost done with no effort, like when you slightly pull the lever out of 1st, it almost glides into 2nd by itself..

i'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing either.. just trying to compare.

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Did you put the foam and rubber insulation piece back in? I noticed that the shifter hits the stiff rubber mat part of that in the back (2nd, 4th, and reverse). I had to pull it back out and trim some of it off. If you did put it back in, take it out, flip it over and feel in the back of it where 2nd and 4th are. You'll see what needs trimmed.

 

I also trimmed it.

 

also, is it just me or has the shifting motion itself got much stiffer?

 

ie: when you shift from 1st to 2nd, while you pull the lever back into second, there's a more noticable

distinction when it's in 1st, then neutral, then 2nd? almost too distinct to the point of stiffness...

or is that just part of the traits of this short shifter?

 

Because the throw and lever are shorter, it requires more force to move. I think that's why it feels so much crisper than before.

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I feel the opposite... the shifter seems easier to move, although I did have the dealer-installed STi shifter, so there's a bit of difference from what would have been stock.

 

As for the rubber/foam thingy inside... I just removed the whole thing, so if I had to put the stock (STi) shifter back in, I will have the whole original piece. Same issue, though -- the rubber boot got in the way of 2/4/R shifts.

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  • 9 months later...
. . . finally put on those bushings today. haha, took a while. anyway, they seem to tighten it up a bit. nice and crisp shifts.

Did you use the COBB bushings? Was it just the round front bushing?

 

I think Kartboy makes 2 bushings for the 5MT. Wondering how both would make the shifting feel?

 

I guess I'll do a search! :spin::lol:;)

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I have the STi STS in my 05MT Stage 2. I am not a big fan of this upgrade for the price. Shifts really are not that short. Has anyone used the Cobb STS with the Subaru STi STS?

 

um, what? the cobb sts replaces the STi (or stock or whatever) shifter...am i missing something here?

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Sorry for the confusion. I replaced my stock shifter with the SOA STi shifter. I am not really happy with it. Instead of taking the entire thing out again, I was thinking of just throwing in a Cobb into the new STi shifter. I was wondering if anyone knows if you can put the Cobb adjustable shifter into the STi replacement mechanism.
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Sorry for the confusion. I replaced my stock shifter with the SOA STi shifter. I am not really happy with it. Instead of taking the entire thing out again, I was thinking of just throwing in a Cobb into the new STi shifter. I was wondering if anyone knows if you can put the Cobb adjustable shifter into the STi replacement mechanism.

Yes, you can. The only difference between the shifter your car came with and the STi STS is the part you'll be replacing with the COBB STS. I know there was an extra couple parts attached but it has been determined that the only difference is the lever you'll be replacing with the COBB unit.

 

Here's a picture I took of the STi (top) and the standard shifter (bottom). Only difference is where the fulcrum is located and the height (looks to be about 1 cm shorter than the standard).

 

Cheers!

-Ian

PA190002.jpg.f0dfc09afd81d10957cedc303f3187bb.jpg

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Thanks for clearing that up. I wish I knew that before I spent the money for the STi STS. Can anyone tell me how much better they like the Cobb STS vs the STi STS? I would like it to be smoother, less notchy, and quite a bit shorter on throw and height. Thanks.
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I wish I knew that before I spent the money for the STi STS.

That's why it's always a good idea to do some research before laying out the credit card, eh?

 

Sorry, I don't mean to be jerk but this sight is chock full of great information on anything you can think of regarding your LGT. Learn how to use the search and spend some time reading! ;)

 

I got the STS for free basically because I bought it with Subaru Bucks.

 

The COBB STS isn't going to make the notchiness go away. Do a search as there are a TON of review threads about STS's.

 

You should be able to dial in a height and throw that you like with the COBB unit though as it is double adjustable (for height and throw).

 

I found a thread in the power train section about Extra-S gear oil you can get from you local dealership that folks are saying helps with the notchiness (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62614). Between that and the hardened bushings available from COBB, Kartboy and others (?). I believe that's about all you can do with regards to the feel of the shifter beyond swapping the tranny for a 6 speed unit (not sure it's been done but they are available in the '07+ spec B) or the car out for a Honda or BMW. :lol: :lol: ;)

 

Cheers!

-Ian

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