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OEM clutch gone already???


rocknroll

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My stock clutch started slipping badly today on a trip to Tahoe and stinking. I only bought the damn car two weeks ago from a Subaru dealer too so I'm heading back there next week seeking a solution. The car has 44k on it so I'm not too happy that the clutch is giving up now.

 

I've had many manual transmission cars with far higher miles and HP ratings that have not eaten their clutches so quickly and no matter how much I dislike the standard clutch, I can't really justify buying an aftermarket one.

 

The somewhat weak clutch on Subaru's has been a problem for several years - they had problems even in the early 80's with the clutch. It is basically glazing of the clutch that occurs, so the worst thing isn't really the parts it's the job changing the clutch. :mad: At least the weight of the gearbox isn't too bad compared to other cars - only the fact that you has to drain the oil before and remove all the axles.

 

Just be nice to the clutch by not slipping on it too much - fully engaged or disengaged is the best... :rolleyes:

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He probably wasn't lying - my brother picked up our grandfather's 240DL wagon which he used for deliveries for his music store. He had 200,000 miles on the original clutch.

 

OK - now we are going a bit off-topic, but whatever... :)

 

And Volvo has the same clutch in the 3.0 liter 164 too - at least when it comes to the flywheel contact items and springs. I don't know about if even the 240 turbo also packed the same clutch but I suspect it, so I'm not surprised at all having that distance on a DL - which was the next to low-end version of the 240 range. The L version was even less powered using the pushrod 2.0 liter B20 engine... but at least the transmission on those Volvos were almost impossible to wear out - even for teenage drivers.

 

No wonder RWD Volvo are called "tractors"... Swedish nickname is sometimes "hising-tractor" since the Volvo plant is located on the island "Hisingen". http://www.hitta.se/LargeMap.aspx?vad=Volvo&var=G%F6teborg&SearchType=4&Vkiid=DMXfdx5/VaBkpRn6n7%20GCA%3D%3D&Vkid=13025544&name=VOLVO%20AB&z=5&cx=1264727&cy=6406565&toolbars=banner%2Ccontrols%2Csearch%2Czoom%2C&referrer=ViewDetailsPink.aspx&PointX=1264727&PointY=6406565

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Mine was great at 36K and then after about 50 dragstrip runs last season it was toast(40K). The stock clutch is great for daily driving, but not so great for the track(over time). At least it's just the clutch that goes. On all of my Mustangs; the clutch held fine; it was the second gear of the BW-T5 that was the weak link. I'd rather replace a clutch once in a while instead if replacing the entire transmission every 10K miles like I did with the Mustangs.
Let's kick this pig!
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It's about 50/50 on where people get the work done. I had mine done at the dealership and labor ranges from $450-$550 from what I've heard. I think mine was right at $535 total including fluids, tax and fees. The clutch and flywheel will cost anywhere up to $1000 for the parts depending upon what setup you get.
Let's kick this pig!
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Neither did I when I first noticed mine going out. I bought the Stage2 Clutch and Lighweight Flywheel in July and then drove easy until Sept when I could afford to have it installed. I got a good three more months out of my clutch after it first started slipping. I was hoping it would make it until about now so I could use tax money, but it just didn't quite work out that way.
Let's kick this pig!
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Just brought my 05 LGT 31k miles on it to the dealer on the 22nd. He wanted to run diagnostics, but then drove the car to the bay and came back to say my clutch was toast. They are replacing the clutch and flywheel under warranty.

 

I will repost when I get the car back...they are waiting on parts. (Probably from Japan...lol)

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