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OEM clutch gone already???


rocknroll

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I was quoted $1800 for a future clutch job when I was purchasing my car last month. Seems a high, is that what others are paying?

 

On a side note, my 2000 Miata went just over 100k on the original clutch and I drove it hard! Not looking comparable for the LGT from what others have posted... :(

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I was quoted $1800 for a future clutch job when I was purchasing my car last month. Seems a high, is that what others are paying?

 

On a side note, my 2000 Miata went just over 100k on the original clutch and I drove it hard! Not looking comparable for the LGT from what others have posted... :(

 

Well, I got in on the MTS group buy, which was the RPS clutch and a 15# flywheel for $675 shipped. A new stock release bearing was $27 + shipping (maybe $5.....I bought other stuff, too) from 1st Subaru Parts. My install will be $368. That's about $1,075. And the next time I shouldn't need the flywheel, which will shave off a few hundred.

 

A car like a Miata weighs a lot less, and has less gross torque, which are the two things (weight & torque) that work to kill a clutch.

Ron
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Mine has 26k on it and it doesn't feel strong. When the stock clutch goes, I don't think I'll be doing another OEM clutch.

 

Owned an older Maxima SE with 190hp and the stock clutch was still going strong when I sold it with 190k... and I wasn't that nice to it.

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doesnt surprise me one bit. I had clutch problems since i hit 10k... kept complaining about it until they replaced it under warranty.... which happened to only be about 20k later lol. anyway, new clutch has been babied for about 10k and is starting to feel like it's on the fritz. definately interested in an aftermarket clutch/flywheel combo, just not sure which one to go with...

any ideas?

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My car was demo'd for 7k kms. I complained about the slip/stink until 20k kms when it stopped holding under load in higher gears, after some "investigation" it was replaced under warranty.

 

The "new" clutch was initially very light and engaged low, now after being fairly easy on the clutch for 15k kms, it is heavier and engages near the top, it also feels like it may be getting weaker now but its hard to say.

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My clutch has begun making a weird whinning noise at the point of friction. Usually only heard in first or second. Pedal feels the same as it always has and there is no sign of slippage. Any ideas what is causing the noise? Its weird because there is no slippage...I have a '99 LGT with 180,000 miles, original clutch...
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My clutch has begun making a weird whinning noise at the point of friction. Usually only heard in first or second. Pedal feels the same as it always has and there is no sign of slippage. Any ideas what is causing the noise? Its weird because there is no slippage...I have a '99 LGT with 180,000 miles, original clutch...

 

Throw out bearing more than likely...Or it could be the pilot bearing. Mine would get a little noisy in the winter cold temps on startup and then subside as it warmed up. Would go away completely in warmer temps....

 

With 180k on the original clutch, I would say you have gotten your $$$ worth out of it, and go ahead and replace it once the noise starts bothering you too much. It don't pay to only replace the TB, as you will have everything apart anyway.

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Please report back your impressions after you get it installed.

 

It's been in for two days, and I had the opportunity to put over 100 miles on it yesterday, with varied driving from stop-n-go to Interstate running.

 

Overall, I love it!!

 

The one downside that some may not like is that the pedal effort is up at least 50%. It doesn't bother me, and after a day I don't even think about it, but some may object to that. It's not any worse than other heavy clutches that I've had in years past.

 

The engagement point is closer to the floor, so yo have to retune your driving technique. Again, after a day of use it's a non-issue.

 

Now, the one update that I would recommend to everyone, regardless of which clutch you use, is to get the ACT Streetlite flywheel, which is 14-15 #s (Rob at MTS says 15#s, the ACT site says 13.9 #s for the other Subie flywheels, so ???, as I didn't weigh it). Remember that the stock dual-mass flywheel is about 26#s. There is a very noticeable change in how quickly it revs. In fact, on the highway at speeds over 70 (over 3K rpm), the car is noticeably quicker than before when you just mat it in 5th. The difference is also apparent in the lower gears. Put this flywheel on your wish list. It is also recommended to NOT get the 11# ACT Prolite flywheel for street use.

Ron
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FYI:

 

I went to the dealership today and they are covering the clutch replacement under warranty, getting it done this Thursday (in addition to the TSBs for the cooling fans and the floormat hook). That's with 48k miles, so it looks like the clutch is covered under the 60,000mi powertrain warranty.

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FYI:

 

I went to the dealership today and they are covering the clutch replacement under warranty, getting it done this Thursday (in addition to the TSBs for the cooling fans and the floormat hook). That's with 48k miles, so it looks like the clutch is covered under the 60,000mi powertrain warranty.

 

 

With the extended warranty, would this mean that the clutch is covered for 100k?

 

Right on with the lightened flywheel! This is what's been bothering me so far, it just feels so restricted. 50% pedal pressure increase in LA/OC is a tough sell, but I bet it feels great!

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I haven't dug through my warranty paperwork, but I feel pretty confident that any clutches covered under warranty are done so at the discretion of the dealer, and are not a normal warranty item. Clutches rank right up there with brake pads and windshield wipers as consumable parts.

 

Although the prospect of a free clutch sounds good, since I never cared for the stock one and I plan to continue to visit the dragstrip, I don't regret biting the bullet for an aftermarket setup. Same concept as any other aftermarket mod.

Ron
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Ok, so here is my question; Do I beat the crap out of my clutch and get in fixed under warrantee (I only have 8500 mi) or do I try and baby it?

Just drive normally. IF your clutch fails in an unusual ammount of time (I'd say prior to 40K), talk to the dealer and see what they say. But if they detect signs of abuse/hard usage, they probably won't warranty it.

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:( 20,000 miles and JUST this morning my #$$*!-ing clutch is slipping!!:icon_mad: :icon_mad: Just got it back from the body shop on friday!! Mother F_ _ _ er!! Oh well. I have plenty of mods in it and don't drive like an Idiot, never been to the track and have never drag-raced. Dummass clutch. Gonna call a dealership and see how "mod-friendly" they are. I have some TSB issues to have them look into plus my trunk leaks:( . If it's not covered under warranty I'll be going the RPS clutch/flywheel route most likely. Oh, btw the slippage occurs at city speeds and highway speeds, mostly see it in 4th and 5th gear and it grabs "high" now, lil' bit sticky too(?)
Stage2.5376, TDC ProTune,blah blah blahhhh and....Alky/H20 injection :icon_mrgr
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Interesting but somewhat disheartening. I have a new OBXT 5MT and hope the clutch last far longer than 20K or even 50K miles. My 4Runner is on the origingal clutch (and brakes) @ 130K, and my old civic awd wagon went 110K before I replaced the clutch.
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Remember that the Forum folks aren't a bunch of grandpas who only use the car to drive to church and the market. Collectively we drive the cars far harder than the average owner, as well as doing track and drag events. Look at the cars that most folks have, and you will see Stage 1 & 2 mods.

 

It didn't especially bother me that I only got 40K out of my stock clutch. I didn't buy the car for the same reasons that granola-crunchers buy Subarus.

Ron
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Remember that the Forum folks aren't a bunch of grandpas who only use the car to drive to church and the market. Collectively we drive the cars far harder than the average owner, as well as doing track and drag events. Look at the cars that most folks have, and you will see Stage 1 & 2 mods.

 

It didn't especially bother me that I only got 40K out of my stock clutch. I didn't buy the car for the same reasons that granola-crunchers buy Subarus.

 

Yeah, I expected 40,000 miles out of the stocker. I would have been fine with it if it went that long but it lasted 1/2 that:( . Now if I tracked my car or dragged or drove it extremely hard I wouldn't even be posting on the subject. The post would be in the "review" section on how much better the "XYZ" clutch is compared to the stocker. I do know that if you're gonna "mod" you're also gonna have to accept the outcome if things go awry, and I do.

 

lizard.

Stage2.5376, TDC ProTune,blah blah blahhhh and....Alky/H20 injection :icon_mrgr
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With the extended warranty, would this mean that the clutch is covered for 100k?

 

Right on with the lightened flywheel! This is what's been bothering me so far, it just feels so restricted. 50% pedal pressure increase in LA/OC is a tough sell, but I bet it feels great!

 

 

The fine print on the extended warranty specifically states that it does NOT cover the clutch assembly. I assume the basic 60k mile powertrain warranty because they replaced mine without even questioning it at 48k.

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