bugblatterbeast Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 do you guys have the mph-based wastegate compensation map? it looks like we might have some sort of compensation available. I've emailed Cobb to see if the table is what I think it is. unfortunately it is a basemap only table so I need to do a reflash to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 new maps.... Added what I think is vehicle speed compensation to the maps and refined the WGDC tables. I'll hopefully know for sure in a week or so. This one needs a base map change in addition to the real time map. So far the logs indicate that boost is coming up faster in 1st and 2nd. edit: I got an email from Cobb (thanks Christian, you guys rock) last night explaining the scaling for one of the tables. There's a mistake in what I did so please don't use the maps yet. Even with the error things will still be sort of ok as the WGDC high table will limit the values (as confirmed by some logs) but I'd still rather make a correction to the tables. I'll have new maps in a couple weeks (travelling on business soon)Copy of 91_low_speed_booststb.pdfCopy of leaner+wgtrim+vssstr.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005garnetGT Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 good. I know the speed-based wg comp really helped the laggy automatic feeling in my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamboon Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 The best place for the O2 is where Cobb has the bung. It’s tight but the ac lines wont get in the way. I ran mine through the fender well then through the rubber grommet where the main wiring harness goes. If you pull the passengers side tire then the fender liner there is a white box on the upper part of the fender, I ran it through there then made a small X in the rubber grommet, pull 1/2 the interior apart and it falls into place I will try to take some pics for you later. I’m getting around the USB hub by using a port replicator with my laptop (IBM T42). I also tried to get it to work on my T41 but no dice. I like what you have done and will give it a try later. I just got the ST up and running this weekend and I’m planning to start playing today. There is lots of good stuff on Cobbs forum for the ST. What are you upgrade plans? Did you get the ST just for fun or are there more mods in your future? I was thinking about running my o2 sensor on my r-500 from PLXdevices but plx recommends 24" away from the turbo. so I plan on welding in an extra bung about 30" away from Turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edmundu Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I was thinking about running my o2 sensor on my r-500 from PLXdevices but plx recommends 24" away from the turbo. so I plan on welding in an extra bung about 30" away from Turbo. That recommendation is likely due to heatsoaking the sensor. Some sensor's are more prone to not working at higher temps. FWIW, I have a LM-1, in a Cobb DP, and I haven't had any heatsoaking issues. also, the closer you are to the cylinder's, the more accurate the measurement. What DP do you have? You could always mount it closer, and if there is an issue with heat. Innovative recommends using some 4"x4" 16ga copper sheet drilled for the sensor. It acts as a heat sink, to draw heat away from the sensor itself. I haven't had to do it, but if I come across this issue that's how I'll resolve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamboon Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I have the Cobb DP... but the bung is to close based on PLX recommendations. not really thrilled about removing and welding a new bung.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 I have the Cobb DP... but the bung is to close based on PLX recommendations. not really thrilled about removing and welding a new bung.. I'm using a Cobb DP also. There are times when my sensor goes under temperature (at idle, over-run). Under load it is fine and I've yet to get a sensor over-temperature error. Infact, I can't get to the operating temperature from a cold start without a bit of driving (I was trying to read the warm up enrichment in the driveway) Which sensor comes with the PLX meter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edmundu Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 ^^^Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor, same as my LM-1 ships with. Very good sensor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 FWIW, I have a LM-1, in a Cobb DP, and I haven't had any heatsoaking issues. +1 But to quote Rob...why the **** is this thing so complicated to put in I have the Cobb DP... but the bung is to close based on PLX recommendations. not really thrilled about removing and welding a new bung.. Let me know if you need a bung, mine came with one im not going to use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamboon Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 model r-500... Bosch LSU 4.2 Wideband O2 Sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005garnetGT Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 interesting note on the mph-based WG comp. since its open up to 30mph, I noticed I am pulling less vacuum at idle, about 17in/hg instead of 20... micro vacuum leak on the WG maybe? perhaps a checkvalve could fix this? Its noticeable because I can feel less brake booster power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamboon Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 took off Cobb DP last night and having a bung welded in at 24.3" from the Turbo... There is a perfect spot 12 oclock high on the DP with enough space in between the DP and body of the car. PLX strongly recommended to have the o2 sensor 24" away from the turbo...so I did not want to take any chances with installing in the Cobb location ~4" from the turbo. Cobb recommends their location while being tuned... my o2 set up is a permanent one. Thanks for the offer rclark0032 on the bung ... received mine yesterday Also I plan on installing the egt sensor in the uppipe which I have read mixed reviews some state it should be located near cylinder 3 or 4. any experts want to advise will be apprciated! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 I've used widebands from PLX and Zeitronix; I have the Zeitronix in the Legacy. They all use the Bosch sensor. All of the Innovate systems are a PITA. That sensor has a heater in it so it should have no problem reaching operaing temperatures Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamboon Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 That sensor has a heater in it so it should have no problem reaching operaing temperatures should i not weld the bung in the DP and keep at Cobb's stock location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 should i not weld the bung in the DP and keep at Cobb's stock location? I had a PLX Devices wideband in my turbo Mustang with the sensor in roughly the same position and it worked just fine. I don't know why it should be moved. Plenty of people use that general location with no problems. All of the widebands use the same sensor so I am not sure why PLx is specifying that it be mounted so far away. I'd use the existing location. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamboon Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 I've used widebands from PLX and Zeitronix; I have the Zeitronix in the Legacy. They all use the Bosch sensor. All of the Innovate systems are a PITA. That sensor has a heater in it so it should have no problem reaching operaing temperatures How was the innovate wideband a PITA? Is there something I should be watching out for with my setup? I'm using an LC-1. After the initial problem with the sensor not heating up enough while in the DP (engine off) it worked fine for me. Pretty much plug a play. I can't really complain about it given that it only cost $120. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 interesting note on the mph-based WG comp. since its open up to 30mph, I noticed I am pulling less vacuum at idle, about 17in/hg instead of 20... micro vacuum leak on the WG maybe? perhaps a checkvalve could fix this? Its noticeable because I can feel less brake booster power. I'm actually applying the correction a bit differently. The boost targets are increased below 34 MPH so the turbodynamics number sit higher and force more WG bleed. At idle, I've got the targets set low so there's no vacuum leak. Have you tried trimming your idle timing? I bumped mine up a bit to get better vacuum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 I can't really complain about it given that it only cost $120.Where did you fid it at that price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 How was the innovate wideband a PITA? Is there something I should be watching out for with my setup? I'm using an LC-1. After the initial problem with the sensor not heating up enough while in the DP (engine off) it worked fine for me. Pretty much plug a play. I can't really complain about it given that it only cost $120. It needs "calibration" and the switch and LED are extra things that make it more difficult to install and use. That and the fact that it has 3 grounds that part of the install manual says shojld be grouned separately and the quick start guide says should be grounded separately and to the same point I'll take power, ground and output any day over that. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 Where did you fid it at that price? UH, OH, now we are all in trouble Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 Iamboon, R U going to be the ST guru for us 5EAT? You know I am down to try your maps. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 Where did you fid it at that price? B&E customs. Reg price 150, sale price 120 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 It needs "calibration" and the switch and LED are extra things that make it more difficult to install and use. That and the fact that it has 3 grounds that part of the install manual says shojld be grouned separately and the quick start guide says should be grounded separately and to the same point I'll take power, ground and output any day over that. The separate ground thing can be worked around by adding a couple decoupling caps and some filter chokes. I actually like the separate ground design as it allows me to deal with sensor ground loop noise more easily. As for the cal, I agree, it is a bit of a hassle but that's how they are able to achieve resolution better than the sensor's intrinsic specs. I'm only using the device in a temporary setup (wires through passenger window ) so the cal isn't a big deal for me. I just run a sensor cal before I screw it into the bung. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 The separate ground thing can be worked around by adding a couple decoupling caps and some filter chokes. I actually like the separate ground design as it allows me to deal with sensor ground loop noise more easily. How about a wireing diagram? We just put all 3 together and grounded them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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